The benefits of dermarolling

You may be wondering, “How in the world is inserting hundreds of little needles into your face relaxing? And why would anyone want to do that?” It sounds crazy, but microneedling has a ton of benefits, including:

reduced wrinkles and stretch marks

reduced acne scarring and skin discoloration

increased skin thickness

facial rejuvenation

enhanced product absorption

For anyone who’s looking for a way to tackle these concerns at home, microneedling might be your answer. Here’s what you need to know about this miraculous process.

What’s microneedling?

Microneedling, often referred to as dermarolling or collagen induction therapy, is a cosmetic procedure in which thousands of tiny little needles are inserted into the surface of skin via a rolling or stamping device.

Dermarolling works by creating microscopic wounds which induce collagen and elastin production. If you didn’t know, collagen is the most abundant protein found in the human body and is responsible for holding together connective tissue like skin, muscles, tendons, cartilage, and bones.

This lovely protein is also what keeps us looking young and gorgeous. Unfortunately, it’s believed that collagen production slows down by about 1 percent per year after the age of 20, which translates to the big A word — aging.

Despite how terrifying dermarolling may seem, it’s actually considered a minimally invasive procedure with little to no downtime. However, the recovery process does depend largely on the length of the needles used. Obviously, the longer the needles, the deeper the wound — and that means the longer the recovery time.

What size derma roller is best?

This will depend largely on what you’re trying to accomplish. Since we’re all about simplicity, here’s a table summarizing what length should be used depending on what you’re trying to treat.

Note: Microneedling won’t help postinflammatory erythema (PIE), which is redness or pink blemishes. And be aware that derma rollers or microneedling instruments that are greater than 0.3 mm in length are not approved or cleared by the Food and Drug Administration.

How to use a derma roller

Follow these steps precisely to avoid any hazards and unwanted infections.

Step 1: Disinfect your roller

Disinfect your derma roller by letting it soak in  for approximately 5 to 10 minutes.

Step 2: Wash your face

Thoroughly cleanse your face using a gentle pH-balanced cleanser. If you’re using a derma roller with needles longer than 0.5 mm, you’ll also need to wipe down your face with 70 percent isopropyl alcohol before the rolling process.

Step 3: Apply numbing cream, if needed

Depending on your pain tolerance, you might need to apply an anesthetic cream. However, you’ll most certainly want some numbing cream for anything above 1.0 mm, since that needle length will draw blood via pinpoint bleeding.

If you use numbing cream, follow the instructions the manufacturer provides, and make sure to completely wipe it if off before you start rolling!  is a great option.

Step 4: Begin derma rolling

The technique is very important, so listen closely! Splitting up your face into sections makes the whole process easier. Here’s a visual of what that looks like:

Avoid rolling in the shaded area, which represents the orbital (eye sockets) area.

Roll in one direction 6 to 8 times, depending on your skin tolerance and sensitivity, and make sure to lift the roller after each pass. So, roll in one direction. Lift up. Repeat.

Lifting the derma roller after each pass prevents the dreaded “track marks” that make you look like a cat clawed your face.

After you roll in the same place 6 to 8 times, adjust the derma roller slightly, and repeat. Do this until you’ve covered the entire section of skin you’re treating.

After rolling in one direction, it’s time to go back over the area you just rolled and repeat the process in the perpendicular direction. For example, say you finished rolling across your forehead vertically, now would be the time to go back and repeat that entire process horizontally.

By the end of this entire procedure, you should have rolled over each area 12 to 16 times — 6 to 8 horizontally, 6 to 8 vertically.

Contrary to popular belief, we do not need to roll diagonally. Doing so creates an uneven pattern distribution with more stress on the center. If you decide to do this, please be careful and take extra precautionary measures.

Here’s a video that also goes over the proper dermarolling technique just explained.

Step 5: Wash your face with water

After you’re done microneedling, rinse your face with water only.

Step 6: Clean your derma roller

Clean your derma roller with dishwasher soap. Create a soapy water mix in a plastic container, then swish around the roller vigorously, making sure the roller doesn’t hit the sides. The reason we use detergents like dish soap directly after rolling is because alcohol doesn’t dissolve the proteins found in skin and blood.

Step 7: Disinfect your roller

Disinfect your derma roller again by letting it soak in the 70 percent isopropyl alcohol for 10 minutes. Put it back in its case, give it a kiss, and store it somewhere safe.

For a special event or occasion where you want to be extra-radiant, Miami dermatologist Heather Woolery-Lloyd, M.D., recommends removing anything she calls “background noise,” or “little things that aren’t too noticeable but when removed make skin look flawless.” For example, she likes to use Bioré Pore Strips to quickly clear away blackheads on her nose and chin.

Invest in a laser treatment.

If it’s in your budget, consider factoring a yearly laser treatment into your skin-care routine to refresh, brighten, and renew your skin in a way topical products just can’t. “I like quarterly resurfacing with the Clear & Brilliant laser[$300 to $1,000 per session],” says Robert Anolik, M.D., a dermatologist in NYC. “If you’re over 30, try a yearly Fraxel Dual [$600 to $1,800], which is more powerful. Both fade sun-induced spots that make skin look dull.”

Swap out your old loofah.

Again, radiant skin goes beyond your face. In the shower, try massaging a salt scrub over your body, then rinsing it off with extra exfoliation from a Korean washcloth, which is much coarser than a regular one. “The combo sloughs off dead cells for the smoothest skin ever,” says celebrity makeup artist Mylah Morales.

Chill out.

Literally. Using cold water or freeze tool, or products is a quick and easy way to instantly de-puff your face, as well as increase blood flow. While you can spring for expensive rollers or a dedicated skin-care fridge, Cindy Crawford’s facialist Thuyen Nguyen swears by something a little thriftier: ice cubes. “Before and after a flight, I run ice cubes over my face until they melt,” she says. “My pores love this skin shocker.”

Layer textures.

To take your glow from Glossier to YouTuber, double up on highlighters. “Add an extra layer of glow by using a powder highlighter on top of a cream,” says makeup artist Erin Parsons, who often works with Gigi Hadid. Just look at how she makes highlighter catch the light, below.

Try microneedling.

It sounds scary, but an in-office microneedling treatment can do wonders for acne and dullness. If it’s super-glowy skin you’re after, dermatologist Annie Chiu, M.D., recommends a procedure like the Aquagold Fine Touch, which combines microneedling with a hyaluronic acid filler injection “to give you a dewy, hydrated appearance while stimulating new collagen production.” If an in-office treatment is cost-prohibitive (sessions can range from $300 to $600), you can also try at-home microneedling.

Take a long bath.

To get your body glistening, Glamour‘s senior beauty editor Lindsay Schallonswears by a fancy bath soak before you exfoliate. “One soak with Herbivore Detox and my skin is softer, more purified, and baby smooth,” she says. Follow it up with one of these amazing body scrubs.

Stipple (don’t swipe) on foundation.

For a really even glow, the way you apply your foundation is just as important as the foundation you use (check out our favorite lightweight foundations, here). According to Daniel Martin, celebrity makeup artist and the man behind Meghan Markle’s wedding makeup, the key is to buff, not swipe. “Lightly buff and swirl your makeup brush dipped in foundation over your skin to create a flawless, diffused finish,” he says. “Think of it like waxing your car—minus the pressure. When you use light, short circular motions to achieve coverage, it ends up looking seamless and not streaky at all.”