With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Here step by step making “Knitted Noah’s Ark – Penguins Free Pattern”

Introduction Before Jump In Knitting

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work

Measurements
Penguin – Height approximately 10 cm (3.93 inches) / Width approximately 7 cm (2.75 inches)
A perfect size to join Noah and all the animals on the ark!

Materials
Double Knitting yarn
(USA – knitting worsted weight:
Australia – 8ply) in white, black and orange
Knitting needles size 3¼mm (UK size 10)
Good quality washable toy stuffing
Sewing needle
Scissors

Pattern Notes

Instructions in round brackets
These are to be repeated the number of times stated after the closing bracket.

Casting on/off
The knitted casting on method is recommended. Cast off knit wise unless otherwise stated.

Sewing
Sew up all pieces using a tiny oversew stitch. Join seams with right sides together and then turn
right side out.

Toy safety
These characters have been designed for children, so please ensure that attached pieces are sewn
on very securely and seams are tightly finished off. Use only new, hygienic, washable stuffing that
conforms to current safety standards.

Please note that the pattern instructions which are highlighted in blue are to be knitted in white
yarn, and the instructions which are not highlighted are to be knitted in black yarn. Before you
begin make one small ball of black yarn from the same original ball.
Begin at penguin’s bottom, with black yarn cast on 10 sts

SONY DSC

Row 1 K1, (Inc 1) 8 times, K1 (18 sts)
Row 2 Purl
Row 3 K1, (K1, m1, K1) 8 times, K1 (26 sts)
Row 4 P11, K4, join second ball of black yarn P11
By using a second ball of black yarn you will not need
to carry the yarn across the back of the white breast,
which gives a neater finish!

Row 5 K10, m1, K6, m1, K10 (28 sts)
Row 6 P10, P8, P10
Row 7 K10, K8, K10
Row 8 P10, P8, P10
Rows 9 – 14 Repeat rows 7 – 8, 3 times
Row 15 K6, SSK, K2, K8, K2, K2tog, K6 (26 sts)
Row 16 P9, P8, P9
Row 17 K9, K8, K9
Row 18 P9, P8, P9
Row 19 K5, SSK, K2, K8, K2, K2tog, K5 (24 sts)
Row 20 P8, P8, P8
Row 21 K8, K8, K8
Row 22 P8, P8, P8
Row 23 K3, SSK, K3, SSK, K4, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K3 (20 sts)
Row 24 P7, P6, P7
Row 25 K7, K6, K7
Row 26 P7, P6, P7

Row 27 K4, m1, K3, K1, m1, K4, m1, K1, K3, m1, K4 (24 sts)
Row 28 P8, P8, P8
Row 29 K8, K4, m1, K4, K8 (25 sts)
Row 30 P8, P9, P8
Row 31 K8, K9, K8
Row 32 P8, P9, P8

Row 33 K8, K9, K8
Row 34 P8, P4, P1, P4, P8
Row 35 K8, SSK, K2tog, K1, SSK, K2tog, K8 (21 sts)
Rows 36 – 38 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 39 K4, SSK, K9, K2tog, K4 (19 sts)
Row 40 Purl
Row 41 K4, SSK, K7, K2tog, K4 (17 sts)
Row 42 Purl
Row 43 (K2tog) 8 times, K1 (9 sts) B&T

Join the side edges of the head, working down from the
gathered top of the head. Turn right side out. Work a
gathering thread through the cast on stitches and draw up.
Then working up from the bottom, join the side seam,
leaving a 4cm opening. Stuff the head and body firmly,
shaping as you go. Oversew gap in body seam.

Wings (make two)
Using black yarn, cast on 8 sts
Row 1 Purl
Row 2 (Inc 1) 7 times, K1 (15 sts)
Rows 3 – 9 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 7 rows
Row 10 K1, SSK, K10, K2tog (13 sts)
Row 11 Purl
Row 12 K1, SSK, K8, K2tog (11 sts)
Row 13 Purl
Row 14 K1, SSK, K6, K2tog (9 sts) B & T
With right side of st-st outside, fold wings in half and
over sew row ends together. Position and sew the wings
onto the penguin’s body.

Feet (make two)
Using orange yarn, cast on 4 sts
Row 1 Inc 1, K1, Inc 1, K1 (6 sts)
Rows 2 – 5 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 4 rows
Row 6 K2tog, (yrn, K2tog) 2 times (5 sts)
Rows 7 – 11 Beg with a Knit row, st-st 5 rows
B&T

With right side of st-st outside, fold feet in half and oversew the side edges together. Position and
sew the feet onto the penguin.

Beak
Using orange yarn, cast on 10 sts
Row 1 K2, SSK, K2, K2tog, K2 (8 sts)
Row 2 P1, P2tog, P2, SSP, P1 (6 sts)
B&T

Sew the side seam of the beak and position and sew
the beak onto the penguin. With black yarn
embroider two small eyes, as illustrated.

The post Knitted Noah’s Ark – Penguins Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Noah’s Ark – Elephants Knitting Free Pattern”

It’s difficulty level is over-intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

MEASUREMENT
To centre Back 17cm (6¾in)

MATERIALS
F071 Snuggly Baby Bamboo DK main shades 116 or 109 2 x 50g balls
Oddments of shades 120 and 170
1 Pair of 3¼mm Knitting Needles
Stuffing. Small amount of black yarn for eyes.

ABBREVIATIONS
cm centimetres, mm millimetres, in inches, M main, C contrast, k knit, p purl,
inc increase, psso pass slipped stitch over, rem remain, rep repeat, sts stitches,
s1 slip one stitch knitways, tbl through back of loop, tog together.
M1 make 1 stitch – pick up loop between last and next stitch and work into the back of
this loop.
st-st stocking stitch. 1st Row. Knit. 2nd Row. Purl. Rep these 2 rows.

BODY
(Worked in 1 piece commencing
from back end)
Using M cast on 30 sts.
Working in st-st (throughout) proceed
as follows:-
Next Row. Knit.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K2, * m1, k2 rep from * to
end. 44 sts.
Next and Every Alternate Row. Purl.
Next Row. Inc in 1 st st, k20, m1, k2,
m1, k19, inc in next st, k1. 48 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, knit to last
2sts, inc in next st, k1. 50 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, k23, m1, k2,
m1, k22, inc in next st, k1. 54 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, knit to last 2

sts, inc in next st, k1. 56 sts.
Work 13 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K25, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog,
k25. 54 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Rep last 4 rows 3 times more. 48 sts.
Work 4 rows without shaping.
Next Row. (K2tog) 24 times. 24 sts.
Next Row. (P2tog) 12 times. 12 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

HEAD

Using M cast on 25 sts.
Working in st-st (throughout) proceed
as follows:-
Next Row. K11, m1, k3, m1, k11. 27 sts.

Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k5, m1, k11. 29 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k7, m1, k11. 31 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k9, m1, k11. 33 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k11, m1, k11.
35 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k13, m1, k11.
37 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k15, m1, k11.
39 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Work 8 rows without shaping, placing a
marker at each end of last row.
Next Row. K2tog, k16, s1, k2tog, psso,
k16, k2tog. 35 sts.
Next Row. P2tog, purl to last 2 sts,
p2tog. 33 sts.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 31 sts.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more.19 sts.
Work 7 rows without shaping.

SHAPE TRUNK
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 17 sts.
Work 5 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 15 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Break off M and join in C.
Knit 2 rows.
Next Row. (K2tog) 3 times, k3, (k2tog)
3 times. 11 sts.
Next Row. P2tog, purl to last 2 sts,
p2tog. 9 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

LEGS (Make 4)
Using M cast on 16 sts.
Work 22 rows in st-st.
Break off M and join in C.
Knit 2 rows.
Next Row. K1, (k2tog) 7 times, k1. 9 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. (K2tog) twice, k1, (k2tog)
twice. 5 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

EARS (Make 4 pieces)
Using M cast on 12 sts.
Next Row. Inc in each st to last st, k1.
23 sts.
Work 7 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 21 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 19 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more. 13 sts.
Next Row. (K2tog) 3 times, k1, (k2tog)
3 times. 7 sts.
Cast off purlways.

TO MAKE UP

Working from given spot diagram,
using C, randomly Swiss darn each piece with the spots.

Join side edges
and stuff Back working towards the
cast on edge. Fold cast on edge in half
and sew edges together. Join side edges
of legs and stuff. Sew side edges of
trunk and stuff to marker. Fold cast on
edge at top of head in half, sew
together and stuff. Place open end of
head around gathered end of body and
sew in place. Sew sides edges of 2
sections of ear, together leaving cast on
edge open. Sew ears approximately 7
stitches back from head shaping, leaving a 2cm, (¾in) gap between ears.
Using black yarn work a French knot
with a straight stitch to each side for
eyes. Cut 8 lengths of main yarn 40cm,
(15¾in) long to make a twisted cord
tail. Make a knot in tail leaving 3cm,
1¼in) fringe and cut across straight.
Fasten to top of cast on edge of Back.
Cut 8 lengths of yarn 10cm, (¾in) long
and fasten together, sewing to centre
of head to form tuft. Trim to about
2cm, (¾in).

The post How To Create Knitted Noah’s Ark – Elephants | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Knitted Face Scrubbies”

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton yarn (I’ve knit these up in Sugar ‘n Cream, Crafter’s Secret, Knit Picks Dishie, and I Love This
Cotton and they all work very well, though some are easier to knit with than others)
• Size 3.75mm (US 5) DPN needles.
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry Needle for finishing and sewing in ends.

Abbreviations

K – Knit P – Purl
KFB – Knit the front and back of a stitch, increasing the stitch by one. (Use the make one stitch increase of your choice here,
KFB is only used for simplicity.)

Pattern

Cast on 6 stitches (I use the Old Norwegian cast on or the Long-Tail Cast On).
Place 2 stitches on each dpn and begin working in the round, marking the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.
This is the most fiddly part until you are a couple rows in.
Row 1 and every odd row: Purl
Row 2: KFB every stitch (12 stitches)
Row 4: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row (18 stitches)
Row 6: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row (27 stitches)
Row 8: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row – K1 (40 stitches)
Row 10: Bind off all stitches except the last 2 using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (Knitty has a great tutorial)

Strap

With the two stitches left after binding off, you want to pick up two
stitches for a total of four stitches to begin the strap. I like to do this
by knitting the two stitches, then picking one up in the gap left
between here and the beginning of your bind off and then one from
the beginning of the bind off itself.
From here on you will be working back and forth on two dpns
instead of in the round. You can do garter stitch or stockinette stitch
according to your tastes. I work 21 rows (your results may vary),
slipping the first stitch on each row for a neater edge.

Finishing

Once you reach the length of strap you desire, you have a few ways
you can finish your scrubbie.

Method 1: Bind off your four stitches and then sew them to the
opposite edge.
Method 2: Cut yarn to leave a 7-8 inch tail. With your tapestry
needle join your live stitches to the opposite edge.
Sew in your ends and cut the excess yarn and you have a face scrubbie!

The post The Best Way To Make Knitted Face Scrubbies appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Amigurumi Deers

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work
• SSK (SLIP, SLIP, KNIT) : Slip a stitch (as if to knit it) to
  the right-hand needle, slip a second stitch in the same
  way, slip both stitches together back to the left-hand
  needle and knit together through the back loops.

M a t e r i a l s

• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a mid brown colour: Yarn A
• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a beige colour: Yarn B
• 4ply/fingering weight yarn (approx. 4m/4yds) in a
dark brown colour for the antlers
• Scraps of 4ply black yarn 4ply for the eyes, nose
and facial features
• Toy stuffing
• A tiny button

N o t i o n s

• Knitting needles: A pair each of straight 3mm (US 2.5)
and 2.75mm (US 2) and two 2.75mm (US 2) DPNs
(double pointed needles)
• Tapestry needle

F i n i s h e d  s i z e

Finished deer is approx 23cm (9 inches) from the tip
of the toes to the top of the head
G a u g e:
Gauge for deer: 6 stitches x 9 rows to 1 inch
Gauge for clothes: 7 stitches x 10 rows to 1 inch

Th e  p a t t e r n  i n s t r u c t i o n s

The deer is made using exactly the same instructions as written in either of my fox patterns, there are however
some differences in the yarn used and in construction:
• For Yarn A use a mid brown colour (instead of a rust) and for Yarn B a beige colour (instead of cream).
Here I have used Cascade 220 worsted yarn in Praline 9695 (Yarn A) and Beige 8021 (Yarn B)
• The ears are joined to the sides of the head, rather than the top as in the fox, see notes on Ears below,
• Once the ears are joined, there are optional antlers to make, see antler instructions.
• After joining the ears and antlers, speckles are embroidered onto the top of the head using duplicate
stitch. Then the eyes, nose and mouth are added (as detailed in the fox pattern).

H e a d:
Knit, finish and stuff the head exactly as detailed, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and a beige yarn (instead of cream) for Yarn B.

E a r s: (make two the same):
Make the ears exactly as detailed on either Page 5 or Page 16 of the fox pattern, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and for Yarn B a beige yarn (instead of cream). Don’t use black yarn to tip the
outer ear, instead work it entirely in Yarn A.

Once the ears are finished and sewn together
use the cast on tail to sew together the front edges at the base of each ear.

Join the ears to the sides of the head, aligning them 4 rows back from the inner edge of the first row of lighter
colour on the cheek. Use the two Yarn A tails from the ear to join both the top side and bottom side of
the ear. Once the ear is fully attached, tie both yarn tails together at the back of the ear and sew them
through the head and out of the open seam underneath. Join the second ear in the same way then tie
all 4 ends from the ears together and trim excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.
If you would like your deer to have antlers, then now is the time to make and attach them.

A n t l e r s: (make a mirrored pair *):

Starting at the thick base of the antler and finishing at the top points. Use dark brown 4 ply weight yarn and
2.75mm needles to cable cast on 8 stitches, leaving an 8 inch tail for attaching it to the head with later.

row 1: (wrong side) Purl
rows 2-5: Beginning with a Knit row and ending with a Purl row, work 4 rows of stocking stitch
row 6: Change to a 2.75mm DPN (double pointed needle), K2tog, K2 (3 stitches)
leave the remaining 4 stitches un-worked (transfer them to a stitch holder if you prefer). Continue on
the 3 stitches only and with 2 DPNs work an i-cord like so:
row 7: Now the 3 stitches are on the right-hand needle and the working yarn is coming from the left-most
stitch. Slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other and without turning the needle,
transfer it to your left hand. Bring the working yarn across the back of the work and Knit the 3 stitches
again, you will need to keep a tight tension. The only difference from a normal knitted row is that the
yarn is coming from the last stitch and across the back of the work instead of from the first stitch
rows 8-12: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 five more times.
Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide
them off the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down
through the centre of the antler point and leave it hanging for now. Continue on the remaining 4 stitches:
row 6b: Leaving an 8 inch tail for seaming with later, re-join the yarn and use 2 x DPNs: K2, SSK (3 stitches)
rows 7b-9b: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 above three times.

Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide them off
the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down through the
centre of the antler point and, without deforming the antler points by pulling too hard, tie it to the short cast off
tail from the first point to secure both ends and cut short so that they will be hidden inside the finished antler.

Thread the tapestry needle with the long cast on tail from the second antler point and use it to seam the edges
of the thick lower stem of the antler using mattress stitch. When you reach the cast on edge tie both tail ends
together to secure them. That is the first antler finished.

* Make a second antler in the same way, but reverse the height of the two antler points (make the first i-cord
point 4 rows tall and the second one 7 rows tall), so that the finished pair of antlers mirror each other.
I think the antlers look best with the taller points innermost and the shorter points on the outside, but please
decide for yourself what looks best with the pair of antlers you have made – ideally the seam should run up the
back of each antler.

Next you are aiming to join the antlers so that the base of each is sewn to the top of the head in a small circle.
Thread the tapestry needle with the longest tail from one antler and sew through a stitch on the top of the
head, aligning it with the inner edge of colour change on the nose . Work all around the base of the
antler, sewing alternately through a stitch on the head and a loop of the cast on edge of the antler.

When the antler is fully attached tie the two tail ends together securely and sew them through the head and out
of the open seam underneath. Repeat with the second antler making sure they are in alignment (fig. 9). When
you are happy with positioning tie all 4 tail ends from the antlers together securely underneath the head and
trim the excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.

Once your deer head has ears and antlers you can add the embroidered camouflage speckles on the top of the
head, like so:
Cut a 14 inch length of cream yarn and use duplicate stitch/Swiss darning to stitch random single stitches
across the top of the head. I find that they look best if sewn as ‘V’ shapes when the head is facing you (rather
than upside-down ‘V’s) and 7 or 8 stitches is probably about right but you could add more if you prefer.

Once you’re happy with the speckles sew both of the cream yarn tail ends through the head and out of the
open seam underneath. Tie together to secure, before trimming them and poking ends inside the head cavity.

F a c i a l   f e a t u r e s

Finish the head by adding the nose, mouth and eyes, as detailed on Pages 7–8 of the fox pattern.

B o d y p a r t s,   f i n i s h i n g   o f f   a n d   c l o t h i n g

Continue making and finishing the body, legs and arms of the animal and the clothing by following the
instructions from pages 8–15 in either of my fox patterns.

The deer pictured on the front cover of this pattern are wearing the clothing included in the fox patterns. Their
clothes are knitted in the following yarns: Dress, socks and sweater in BC Garn Alba, shades 16 cream, 30
mushroom and 32 rose; shoes in Drops Safran 22 light brown; shorts in BC Garn Allino in CL01 brown.
I hope you’ve enjoyed working from this pattern and are pleased with the deer that you make from it.

The post Small Steps Before Christmas With Amigurumi Deers appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Handicrafter Cotton Zen Pillows

ABBREVIATIONS

Inc1P = Increase 1 stitch in next st by purling into back and
front of stitch.

MEASUREMENT
Approx 16 ins [40.5 cm] diameter.

MATERIALS

Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (Solids 400 g/14 oz;
650 m/710 yds)
2 COLOR VERSION
MC: 27215 (Robin’s Egg) 210 m /230 yds
A: 27018 (Bronze) 60 m /66 yds

Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (Ombre 340 g/12 oz;
556 m/608 yds)
SINGLE COLOR VERSION
33021 (Lotus Blossom) 295 m /323 yds
Set of four size 4.5 mm (U.S. 7) double-pointed needles. Size
4.5 mm (U.S. 7) circular knitting needle 24 ins [60 cm] long or
size needed to obtain gauge. 16 ins [40.5 cm] round pillow
form.

GAUGE

20 sts and 26 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking st.

INSTRUCTIONS

2 COLOR VERSION
Front and Back (make 2 pieces alike).
With MC and set of 4 needles, cast on 4 sts.

1st rnd: Inc 1 st in each st. 8 sts. Divide sts onto 3 needles:
(2, 3, 3). Join in rnd, placing a marker on first st.
2nd rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. Rep from * around. 16 sts.
3rd rnd: *Inc1P. P1. Rep from * around. 24 sts.
4th rnd: Purl.
5th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Rep from * around. 32 sts.
6th rnd: Knit.
7th rnd: *Inc1P. P3. Rep from * around. 40 sts.
8th rnd: Purl.
9th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Rep from * around. 48 sts.
10th rnd: With A, (K6. Place marker) 8 times.
11th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times. 56 sts.

**12th rnd: With MC, purl.
13th rnd: (Knit to 1 st before marker. Inc 1 st in next st. Slip
marker) 8 times. 64 sts.
14th rnd: Knit.
15th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times. 72 sts.
16th rnd: Purl.
17th rnd: (Knit to 1 st before marker. Inc 1 st in next st. Slip
marker) 8 times. 80 sts.
18th rnd: With A, knit.
19th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times.
88 sts.**

Rep from ** to ** for pat, inc 8 sts every alt rnd and changing
to circular needle to accommodate added sts when necessary
until work from center measures approx 8 ins [20.5 cm] for a
diameter of 16 ins [40.5 cm], ending on a 16th rnd of pat.
With MC, cast off loosely knitwise.

SINGLE COLOR VERSION

Work as for 2 Color Version omitting all references to color
changes.

FINISHING

Sew Front and Back tog, leaving 10 ins [25.5 cm] opening.
Insert pillow form. Sew opening closed.

The post The Easiest Pattern For Handicrafter Cotton Zen Pillows appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Zig Zag Scarf Autumn Season Knitting

ABBREVIATIONS

inc = increas(e)(s)(ing)

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together

p = purl
rep = repeat(s)(ing)

sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)

SIZE

One Size
5 1/2 x 60 in. (14 x 152.5 cm)

MATERIALS
• 620-174 Wool-Ease Yarn: Avocado
2 Balls
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm]
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE
16 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (k every row). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the
pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less
stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or
needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
1) Modular Knitting is way of giving a ‘patchwork’ effect to your knitting without
picking up stitches or seaming. In the Modular Scarf pattern, you will work a series of
triangles that are built atop one another.
2) Sl all sts as if to knit.
Inc 1 st (kfb): knit the next stitch without removing it from the needle, then k through back
of same st to inc 1 stitch.

SCARF
Cast on 18 sts.
Right Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Note: Move yarn behind the work before you sl 1, k to end. This will ensure a neat edge.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k3, turn.
Row 4: Place marker, sl 1, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k1, turn.
Row 6: Place marker, sl 1, k to end.
Rep Rows 5 and 6 until all cast-on sts have been worked – 34 sts.
Last Row: K1, inc 1, k to end – 35 sts.
The first Equilateral Triangle will begin at lower point of the Right Triangle.

Equilateral Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until you have worked all but last 2 sts.
Next Row: Sl 1, k to end.
Last Row: K1, inc 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
The next Equilateral Triangle will begin at the point of the previous Equilateral Triangle.
Rep Equilateral Triangle until 9 Equilateral Triangles have been worked.

End Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until you have worked all but 17 sts of previous triangle.
Next Row: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Next Row: K2tog, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep last 2 rows until 3 sts remain. Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

The post The Best To Make Zig Zag Scarf Autumn Season appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Knitted Autumn Acorns and Leaves.

Yarn

‣ Hayfield Bonus DK (double knitting/light
worsted weight), 100% Acrylic
‣ One 100g/280m skein in each shade
Leaves: (from left to right in photo above)
“Pumpkin”, “Fox” and “Grass”
Acorn cups: “Chocolate”
Acorn nuts: (from left to right in photo above)
“Moss Green” and “Oatmeal”
‣ You will only need a few grammes of each
colour to make the acorn and leaves, so this is an
ideal project to use up ends of yarn balls
‣ Tension 26 sts x 32 rows per 10 cm square

Needles & Notions

‣ A pair of 3.5 mm (US 4) single pointed needles,
minimum length 20 cm
‣ A darning or tapestry needle
‣ A small handful of toy filling or cotton wool balls
to stuff the acorns

Size

‣ Each leaf is approximately 6.5 cm tall and the
acorn 3 cm tall

Abbreviations

k Knit
k2tog Knit two stitches together (decrease)
kfb Knit into the front and back of the next
stitch (increase)
m1L Make 1 (left leaning increase). Bring the tip
of the left-hand needle under the strand
between stitches, from front to back. Knit
through the back of this loop.
m1R Make 1 (right leaning increase). Bring the
tip of the left-hand needle under the strand
between stitches, from back to front. Knit
this loop.

p Purl
p2tog Purl two stitches together (decrease)
RS Right side
st(s) Stitch(es)
WS Wrong side

Knitting Pattern

ACORN

(Make 1 per acorn)
Start at the
bottom of the
acorn cup. Cast
on 8 sts in the
acorn cup yarn on
single pointed 3.5 mm needles using
the cable cast on.

Row 1 (WS): Knit.
Row 2 (RS): K1, (kfb) 6 times, k1. [14 sts]
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: K1, (kfb, k1) 6 times, k1. [20 sts]
Row 5: Knit.
Break the working yarn and join the acorn nut yarn.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: K1, [k2tog, k4] 3 times, k1. [17 sts]
Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: K1, [k2tog, k3] 3 times, k1. [14 sts]
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: (K2tog) 7 times. [7 sts]
Break the yarn leaving a 30 cm tail, thread the tail
onto a tapestry needle and thread through the
7 sts on the knitting needle, pulling them off the
needle and onto the yarn, and pull tight to gather
together.

OAK LEAVES

(Make 1 per leaf)
Start at the bottom edge.
Cast on 3 sts in the leaf
yarn on single pointed
3.5 mm needles using the
cable cast on.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: K1, m1R, k1, m1L, k1. [5 sts]
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2, m1R, k1, m1L, k2. [7 sts]
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K3, m1R, k1, m1L, k3. [9 sts]
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: K4, m1R, k1, m1L, k4. [11 sts]
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: K5, m1R, k1, m1L, k5. [13 sts]
Row 12: P2tog, (p1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, purl to end. [10 sts]
Row 13: K2tog, (k1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, k2, m1R, k1, m1L, k3. [9 sts]
Row 14: Purl.
Row 15: K4, m1R, k1, m1L, k4. [11 sts]
Row 16: P2tog, (p1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, purl to end. [8 sts]

Row 17: K2tog, (k1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, k1, m1R, k1, m1L, k2. [7 sts]
Row 18: Purl.
Row 19: K3, m1R, k1, m1L, k3. [9 sts]
Row 20: P2tog, (p1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, purl to end. [6 sts]
Row 21: K2tog, (k1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, knit to end. [3 sts]
Row 22: P2tog, p1. [2 sts]
Row 23: K2tog. [1 stitch]
Bind off.

MAKING UP

‣ For the leaves, block and weave in yarn tails on
the WS.
‣ For each acorn, use the cast off tail to sew the
side edges together stuffing as you sew, and
gather the cast on sts together at the base.
Leave the cast on tail dangling on the outside for
the acorn stalk, and trim to a few cm long.

The post Knitted Autumn Acorns and Leaves Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “The Sleeve Classic Pullover -100% Wool-”

SIZE

Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X

Finished Bust 37 (40, 43, 47, 51) in. (94 (101.5, 109, 119.5, 129.5) cm)
Finished Length 23 1/2 (24, 24, 24 1/2, 25) in. (59.5 (61, 61, 62, 63.5) cm)

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

MATERIALS
• 620-098 Quality Brand Wool-Ease – Yarn: Natural Heather
5 (6, 6, 7, 8) Balls
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm]
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE

19 sts + 27 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION

PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

SWEATER

BACK
Cast on 80 (86, 92, 102, 108) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib
until piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) from beg,
increase 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) sts evenly spaced across last
row – 88 (96, 102, 112, 120) sts.
Change to St st (k on RS, p on WS) and work until piece
measures 14 (14, 14, 14, 14 1/2) in. (35.5 (35.5, 35.5,
35.5, 36.5) cm) from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Armholes
Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 78 (86,
88, 96, 104) sts. Dec 1 st each side every other row 4
(6, 6, 8, 9) times – 70 (74, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Work until armhole measures 8 1/2 (9, 9, 9 1/2, 9 1/2)
in. (21.5 (23, 23, 24, 24) cm), end with a WS row.

Shape Neck
K24 (25, 25, 26, 29), bind off center 22 (24, 26, 28, 28)
sts, k to end of row.

Left Shoulder
Working on left shoulder sts only, continue as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to end of
row.
Row 2: Bind off 3 sts, k to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 3 sts, k to end of row.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.
Right Shoulder
Rejoin yarn to work right shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 3 sts, p to end of row.
Row 2: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 3 sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, k to end of row.
Purl 1 row. Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

FRONT

Work same as Back until armhole measures 6 1/4 (6
3/4, 6, 6 1/2, 6 1/2) in. (16 (17, 15, 16, 16) cm), end
with a WS row – 70 (74, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Shape Neck
K28 (29, 29, 30, 33), bind off next 14 (16, 18, 20, 20)
sts, k to end of row.

Right Shoulder

Working on right shoulder sts only, purl 1 row.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next RS row 3 (3, 2, 2, 2) times.
At same edge, dec 1 st every other row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6)
times – 18 (19, 19, 20, 23) sts. P 1 row. K 1 row.
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to end of
row.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Knit.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

Left Shoulder
Rejoin yarn to work Left Shoulder.
Bind off 2 sts at the beg of every WS row 3 (3, 2, 2, 2)
times. Dec 1 st at beg of every WS row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6)
times – 18 (19, 19, 20, 23) sts. Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row.
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to end of row.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, k to end of row.
Row 4: Purl.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)
Cast on 40 (42, 44, 48, 50) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib until
piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) from beg, inc 6 sts
evenly spaced across last row – 46 (48, 50, 54, 56) sts.
Knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
Next Row: Knit, inc 1 st each side—48 (50, 52, 56, 58).
Continue to work in St st, AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st
each side every 6 rows 9 (9, 10, 10, 10) times – 66 (68,
72, 76, 78) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11,
11 1/2, 11 1/2, 11 1/2) in. (28 (28, 29, 29, 29) cm)
from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap
Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 56
(58, 58, 60, 62) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every other row 4 (5, 5, 4, 5) times –
48 (48, 48, 52, 52) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times –
38 (38, 38, 40, 40) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every other row 3 times – 32 (32, 32,
34, 34) sts.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows; 3 sts at beg of next
2 rows; 7 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 8
(8, 8, 10, 10) sts.

FINISHING
Sew left shoulder seam.
Neckband: From RS, join yarn at right shoulder and
pick up and k34 (36, 38, 40, 40) sts along Back neck, 44
(46, 50, 54, 54) sts along Front neck – 78 (82, 88, 94,
94) sts.
Work 5 rows in K1, p1 Rib. Bind off.
Sew right shoulder and neckband seam. Sew in Sleeves.
Sew side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends.

The post The Greatest Way To Knit Sleeve Classic Pullover appeared first on Cocador.

Great chance  to prepare your baby for winter with Cocador’s Free Knitting Patterns.

Cardigan & Hat Merinos Free Pattern by Cocador

COMPOSITION

100 % Merinos Wool

TO FIT

a) newborn – b) 3 – c) 6 mths HEIGHT a) 52 – b) 60 – c) 67 cm

MATERIALS

P. MÉRINOS 3.5: a) 3 – b) 3 – c) 4 balls of FLANELLE or ÉCRU or POUDRE or ABSINTHE or MARINE

1 pair of 3.5 mm (UK – – US 4) knitting needles 2 x 14 mm buttons

STITCH

Garter st

TENSION

Be sure to check your tension before starting to knit. If tension is too tight, change to larger needles; if it is too loose, change to smaller needles.

23 sts and 46 rows to 10 cm measured over garter st using 3.5 mm needles

BACK

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 55 – b) 58 – c) 62 sts and work in garter st. When work meas a) 13 – b) 15 – c) 17 cm from beg, shape armholes. On each edge, cast off 5 sts once [a) 45 – b) 48 – c) 52 sts], then work straight.

When work meas a) 21 – b) 24 – c) 27 cm from beg, shape neck. Cast off a) 17

– b) 20 – c) 22 center sts, then finish 1 side at a time.

When work meas a) 22 – b) 25 – c) 28 cm from beg, cast off rem a) b) 14 – c) 15 sts (for shoulders).

RIGHT RONT

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 39 – b) 41 – c) 44 sts and work in garter st. When work meas a) 13 – b) 15 – c) 17 cm from beg, shape armhole. On left edge, cast off 5 sts once [a) 34 – b) 36 – c) 39 sts], then work straight.

When work meas a) 19 – b) 22 – c) 25 cm from beg, shape neck. On right edge, cast off a) 20 – b) 22 – c) 24 sts once, then work straight.

When work meas a) 22 – b) 25 – c) 28 cm from beg, cast off rem a) b) 14 – c) 15 sts (for shoulder).

Work Left Front, reverse shaping.

SLEEVES

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 37 – b) 39 – c) 41 sts and work in garter st. Inc on each edge: a) on foll 18th rows, inc 1 st twice – b) on foll 18th rows, inc 1 st 3 times – c) on foll 16th rows, inc 1 st 4 times

[a) 41 – b) 45 – c) 49 sts]

When work meas a) 11.5 – b) 16 – c) 18 cm from beg, mark selv sts, then work straight.

When work meas a) 13.5 – b) 18 – c) 20 cm from beg, cast off all sts. Work other sleeve in same way.

MAKE UP

Sew shoulder seams. Join sleeves to body between marked sts.

Sew seams for sides and sleeves. Make 2 buttonholes by widening sts; make 1st buttonhole below neck and foll buttonhole 5 cm further down. Sew buttons.

HAT

No. 147 – T17 – 439

A and B

TO FIT

a) newborn – b) 3 – c) 6 mths

HAT SIZE: a) circum. 32 x ht 13.5 cm – b) circum. 34 x ht 15 cm – c) circum. 38 x ht 16 cm

MATERIALS

P. MÉRINOS 3.5: a) 1 – b) 1 – c) 1 ball of FLANELLE or ÉCRU 1 pair of 3.5 mm (UK – – US 4) knitting needles

Garter st

TENSION

Be sure to check your tension before starting to knit. If tension is too tight, change to larger needles; if it is too loose, change to smaller needles.

23 sts and 46 rows to 10 cm measured over garter st using 3.5 mm needles

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 39 – b) 41 – c) 45 sts and work in garter st for

a) 13.5 – b) 15 – c) 16 cm, then cast off. Work another section in same way.

Join sections and sew top of hat.

The post How To Make Cardigan & Hat Merinos As Baby Outfit appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Knitted City Stripes Dog Sweater.

This cute dog sweater will keep your puppy pretty and warm!

It’s so easy level.

SIZE: Small, Medium, Large, 1X
Finished Chest 18 (22, 26, 30) in. [45.5 (56, 66, 76) cm] around widest point
Finished Length 12 (17, 20, 24) in. [30.5 (43, 51, 61) cm]

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

CORRECTIONS: None

MATERIALS
• 640-132 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Lemongrass
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (A)
• 640-131 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Grass
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (B)
• 640-146 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Fig
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (C)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 13 [9 mm]
• Large-Eyed Blunt Needles

GAUGE:
8 sts + 16 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

NOTES:

STRIPE PATTERN
2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C in Garter st throughout

DOG SWEATER

BACK
With A, cast on 25 (31, 37, 43) sts.
Work in Garter st in Stripe Pattern until piece measures 7
(12, 14, 16) in. [18 (30.5, 35.5, 40.5) cm] from beg.
Dec Row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1 – 23
(29, 35, 41) sts.
Continuing in Stripe Pattern, K 3 rows. Rep Dec Row every
4th row 4 (4, 5, 7) more times – 15 (21, 25, 27) sts.
Bind off.

UNDERPIECE

With A, cast on 11 (13, 15, 17) sts. Work in Garter st in
Stripe Pattern until piece measures 4 1/2 (7 1/4, 10 1/4,
10 3/4) in. [11.5 (18.5, 26, 27.5) cm] from beg.
Dec Row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1 – 9
(11, 13, 15) sts.

Continuing in Stripe Pattern, K 4 rows. Rep Dec Row every
5th row 2 (3, 4, 5) more times – 5 sts.
Bind off.

FINISHING

Starting from bind off edge, sew sides of Underpiece to Back for 2 (2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2) in. [5 (6.5, 7.5, 9) cm]
in. Leave the next 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. [7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm] open on each side for legs, then seam
remaining length of sides.

The post Knitted City Stripes Dog Sweater Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Diamond Lattice Blanket

Here is “The Best Free Diamond Lattice Blanket Pattern”

MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 56″ [142 cm] wide
x 60″ [152.5 cm] long.

INSTRUCTIONS
Notes:
• Right side of project is facing
at all times.
• ‘Working yarn’ is held behind
stitches throughout work.
Count 68 loops for foundation
row.
1st row: Working from right
to left, pull the 69th loop (from
‘working yarn’) up through 68th
loop (last loop of foundation
row) from behind to create a knit
stitch.

Pull next loop from working yarn up through next loop of
foundation row. *Cross second loop of foundation row in front
of first loop of foundation row (to the right). Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind next loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind
next loop. Cross next loop of foundation row in front of 2nd
loop of foundation row (to the left). Pull next loop from working
yarn up from behind through next loop. Pull next loop from working
yarn up from behind through next loop. (Pull next loop from
working yarn up through next loop of foundation row) twice.
Repeat from * to end of row. Do not turn work. 68 stitches in row.
2nd row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on
previous row. *Cross 2nd stitch over next stitch (to the left). Pull
loop from working yarn up from behind through 2nd stitch. Pull
next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next
loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross
next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Rep from * to last stitch.
Pull loop from working yarn up from behind next loop. Do not turn.

3th row: Working from right to left, cross 2nd stitch of previous row over 1st stitch (to the right). Pull loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Rep from * to last 6 stitches. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Do not turn.

4th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on previous row. *Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop, Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next stitch. Do not turn.

5th row: Working from right to left, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) twice. *Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Rep from * to end of row. Do not turn.

6th row: Working from left to right, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) three times. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of 1st stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Rep from * to last 5 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of 1st stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) three times. Do not turn.

7th row: Working from right to left, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) twice. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Rep from * to end of row. Do not turn.

8th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on previous row. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop. Do not turn.

9th row: Working from right to left, cross 1st stitch over 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. *Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Rep from * to last 6 stitches. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Do not turn.

10th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross 2nd stitch over next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross next stitch over 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last 5 stitches. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch. Do not turn. Repeat 5th to 10th rows for pattern. Work in pattern until Blanket measures approximately 60″ [152.5 cm], ending on a 5th row.

Bind off row: Working in same direction as last row, pull 2nd stitch through 1st stitch. Pull 3rd stitch through 2nd stitch. Pull 4th stitch through 3rd stitch. Continue in this manner to end of row. Cut thread at base of loop (thread used to create the loop) to create a yarn ‘tail’. Tie to secure and weave in end.

The post The Best Free Diamond Lattice Blanket Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Simple Cable Scarf.

What You Need

• Yarn : 2 ball yarn in DK/light worsted
• Knitting Needle : 4mm (US 6) Single Pointed needles, cable needle
• Gauge : 10 cm : 20 sts in stockinette

Abbreviation

• cast on
• K : knit
• P : purl
• Sts : stitches
• Bind Off
• LC : Left cable
• 3/3LC : slip 3 sts into cable needle, put it in front of work, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 sts from cable needle.

Suggestion : Better be blocked after finished.

Pattern

Cast On : 28 sts

Row 1, 3, 7, 9 : [K1, P1] 4x, K1, P2, K6, P2, [K1, P1] 4x, K1

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 : K1, P8], K2, P6, K2, [P8, K1]

Row 5 (RS) : [K1, P1] 4x, K1, P2, 3/3LC, P2, [K1, P1] 4x, K1

Repeat 10 row above until you reach the length you want

Bind Off.

Don’t forget to block your scarf so the beauty of the stitches will be shown. If you using steam blocking with steam iron or damp towel/pillow case (like me), don’t forget to put the wrong side up and hide the right side when you pin it into mat.

Additional Note :

You can change LC with RC (right cable). Or maybe playing with simple intarsia for the cable part.

The post Easiest Way To Make Simple Cable Scarf appeared first on Cocador.