“A glossy black nail has always been my go-to in the fall/winter,” says Colley. “It’s become like the new red.” Besides its versatility (you simply can’t go wrong with black), high-shine black polish works on all nail shapes and lengths, and is sophisticated and badass at the same time. And if you’re prone to chipping, inky shades are the way to go. A few nicks and scratches here and here looks effortlessly cool and just screams: “I am unbothered.”

A Touch of Metal

Metallics will take on a new softer edge during frostier months. According to Remark, “textured nail polish that has a little bit more oomph to it” – like gold leaf, metallic brushstrokes and intentionally placed glitters – will be favoured over a full-on chrome effect. Not so big on nail art? Colley suggests asking your manicurist for a powdered chrome mani. “It gives a really cool sheen to the nail, but you don’t get this blinged-out

Blue, But Make it Denim

Yes, icy-blue hues and iridescent manicures dominated this summer (and we will miss them dearly), but muted tones that pop are taking over. “This fall it’s a little bit more of a denim [blue],” predicts Remark. Colley agrees. “Greyer undertones of blue will be really big this fall/winter,” she says. This understated shade looks elegant without overshadowing the rest of your look. If you’re a stickler for vibrancy, Colley suggests pairing blue nails with warmer shades. “I love seeing blues paired with those earthy tones [like] burnt oranges and mustard yellows.” Extend your Canadian tuxedo to the tips of your fingernails with confidence.

Negative Space Nails

“Negative space will still continue [to trend] this fall/winter and be bigger than it was before” says Colley. Subtle graphic lines or a few dots on a natural nail goes a long way to make a statement with very little effort. The best part? After your manicure is well past its best-before date, this style of nail art can outlast a bit of growth and chipping. “A lot of it has to do with elongating time between manicures. Everything that we’re doing now is about convenience,” she says. Suffice to say this look is well-suited for 2020.

Installing door trim works beautifully when all of the surfaces are in alignment. Uneven walls will throw off that perfect fit. But there is an easy procedure that brings the door trim into alignment with the door casing—despite uneven walls. It requires only a few simple tools, and you don’t need to cut the door casing or door trim.

Installing Door Trim on Uneven Walls

Door trim surrounds a door opening on three sides like a picture frame. Trim covers the gap between the door casing and the wall. When the wall protrudes farther out than the edge of the door casing, one or both of the vertical door trim pieces will not meet the casing perfectly.

Tilting the door trim to force it to meet the casing is a poor workaround. This creates a visible gap on the wall side. Most telling, though, is at the top, where it meets the horizontal header trim. The angled trim doesn’t align with this header trim.

The fix is to create a depression or pocket in the drywall so the trim rests slightly deeper into the wall. This works for trim that is up to 1/4-inch out of alignment with uneven walls. Sinking the trim deeper than 1/4-inch causes the trim to recede from view, and this is even more visible when other sections of the trim are not recessed.

What You’ll Need

Equipment / Tools

• Cordless drill with driver bits
• Cordless nailer
• Flat prybar
• Clean towel or cloth
• Utility knife
• Hammer
• Five-In-One tool

            Materials

• Drywall screws, 1 5/8-inch
• Painter’s caulk

                      Instructions

1. Remove the Door Trim
   If this is a fix, not a new installation, first remove the existing door trim.
   With the prybar, gently remove the door trim from the door casing. Begin on the wall side and fit the flat end of the pry bar under the trim. Insert a towel or cloth under the prybar’s fulcrum to protect the wall. Push down on the prybar. The trim should pop up, allowing you to remove it.
2. Secure the Drywall to the Stud
   Sometimes, the drywall underneath the door trim has loosened from the stud. The drywall screws or nails may have popped through the drywall paper. If there is a gap between the drywall and the stud, drive several drywall screws to secure the drywall to the stud. If there is no gap, do not drive screws as this will complicate later steps.
3. Cut the Drywall Paper
   Placing the trim back in position and using it as a straight edge, slice the drywall paper on the outer edge. Avoid cutting farther back into the gypsum core for now, though you may need to do that in later steps. Put the trim aside.
4. Peel the Paper and Test Depth
   With the sharp side of the five-in-one tool, slice away drywall paper on the door side of the slice. Do this carefully so that you do not disturb the paper or gypsum on the other side. Peel away the rest of the paper by hand. Test this new, lower depth by placing the trim on top. Sometimes, removing this thin layer of paper is enough to bring the trim into alignment with the door casing. If this does not work, proceed with the next steps.
5. Remove Drywall Screws or Nails
   If there are any drywall screws or nails in that strip between the door casing and the cut, remove them.
6. Break the Gypsum Core
   With the hammer, gently tap the drywall on the door side of the slice. Your goal is to partially shatter the gypsum, loosening it for removal in the next step. Do this carefully to avoid breaking gypsum in areas that you want to preserve.
7. Remove Some of the Gypsum
   Scrape away gypsum to the depth that you need. Keep the depth equal. Frequently test the depth by placing the trim over the area that you are gouging out.
   Tip
   If you removed drywall screws or nails in a previous step, replace them. Do not nail back in the same spot as the nail will not hold.
8. Install the Door Trim
   With the cordless nailer, nail the door trim back into place. The far side of the trim should rest within the pocket that you created within the drywall.
9. Apply Painter’s Caulk
   Apply a small amount of painter’s caulk to the far (cut) side of the door trim to smooth the appearance and cover up any ragged paper cuts. After the caulk has dried, paint the trim and the wall.