Here’s the thing with exfoliation: it’s addictive. Anyone who has ever experienced the after-glow of a peel pad knows what we’re talking about here. A good exfoliation sesh gets rid of dead skin cells instantly, making pores appear smaller, spots look lighter and gives you an overall refresh better than most products can. So we get hooked. And we exfoliate. And we exfoliate some more, which can lead to a host of other issues like redness or sensitivity.

WHAT IS EXFOLIATION?

To understand exfoliation, one must know what a keratinocyte is. Keratinocytes are skin cells that are found in the outermost layer of our skin (aka the epidermis). As the skin continually renews itself, keratinocytes mature and are eventually shed off through a process called desquamation.

Exfoliation speeds up the removal of these dead skin cells from the outermost layer of the skin, which can help reveal newer skin cells and can have multiple benefits including brighter skin, improved brown spots, smoother texture, reduction of clogged pores, and improved penetration of other topicals. However, exfoliating is not for everybody and may not be appropriate for every skin type,” she cautions. “It is important to exfoliate safely to minimize the risk of negative side effects, like redness, irritation, acne breakouts or scarring.”

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU EXFOLIATE YOUR FACE?

“Everyone’s skin has different needs and it’s also important to note that those needs can change over time,” says Chang. “In general, I recommend gentle exfoliation no more than two to three times per week.”

If your skin is dry or sensitive, you should exfoliate less frequently, like once every couple of weeks.

If your skin is oily, you can exfoliate a bit more frequently, like every one to two days.

If you have never exfoliated before, starting with once per week and working your way up as tolerated by your skin type.

WHEN SHOULDN’T YOU EXFOLIATE?

“I would avoid exfoliating your skin if there is an open wound, active infection, or any inflammation like acne or an eczema flare,” warns Chang. “Also, if your skin becomes red, inflamed, irritated or peels as a result of exfoliating, stop and consult your dermatologist for alternative options.”

Another thing: Make sure you take any other skincare products you’re currently using (like retinoids or benzoyl peroxide) into consideration. These products, when combined with too much exfoliation, can disrupt your skin barrier, which keeps irritants out and is responsible for maintaining skin hydration and health.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEMICAL AND MECHANICAL EXFOLIATION?

“There are two methods of exfoliation at-home: mechanical and chemical,” explains Chang. “Mechanical exfoliation involves using a cleansing tool or scrub to physically remove dead skin cells.” The most common forms of mechanical exfoliation are:

Micro-bead facial scrubs

Sugar or salt crystals

Abrasive materials like pumice, sponges, or cleansing brushes

“Chemical exfoliation involves chemicals, like alpha and beta-hydroxy acids, to dissolve and loosen dead skin cells,” says Chang. The three main chemical exfoliators that are used are:

Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which include glycolic acid, lactic acid, and mandelic acid. AHAs are naturally occurring acids that are present in many foods and milk sugars, as well as, produced synthetically. They promote exfoliation by breaking down the adhesion between the skin cells in the epidermis.

Beta-hydroxy acids (BHAs) like salicylic acid are fat-soluble, allowing them to penetrate deeper into the hair follicles and dissolve pore-clogging residue like oil, which makes them ideal for people with oily skin and acne.

Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs) are a new generation of alpha-hydroxy acids that have similar effects but with less irritation. PHAs, like lactobionic acid and gluconolactone, have a larger molecular structure than other AHAs, limiting their ability to penetrate the skin and thereby reducing the side effects. PHAs have been clinically proven to provide skin-smoothing and anti-aging benefits that are comparable to alpha-hydroxy acids, while also hydrating the skin.

When you need comfort but you’re either prone to spots, or are so dry you never get spots

Definitely don’t feel left out if you don’t enjoy sheet masks. Old school cream masks have been reinvented to be more effective than ever, though are still just as soothing as you remember. The aptly-named SOS mask range from Clarins includes hydra which is like a fix-all, cosy blanket, though one that is not too heavy for oily skin, while the mango seed oil in  ives it a more nourishing feel suited to very dry skins. Try using this style of mask once a week after cleansing – apply, leave on for as long as you find comfortable (with soothing masks like these, rather than those with active ingredients, that may be much longer than the usually recommended 10 minutes), then continue with the rest of your steps for comfortable, plumped up skin.

When you want to indulge in sensorial self-care

Overnight mask

The results of using this mask are certainly pleasant enough, but it’s the very act of using this that I really find the joy in. For a start, it comes with a masking accessory that is as practical as it is beautiful. A single white camellia petal, icon of the house of Chanel, is reimagined in silicone, and engraved with the signature interlocking Cs. You apply the mask to the petal and then use the petal to brush it ever so gently onto the skin, whereupon the gel texture transforms into tiny droplets that burst as you push them into the skin with your hands. It’s the wonder of a good science lesson (“how do they do that?”) combined with the pleasures of kindergarten (the joy of finger painting, reimagined for adults), and is taking masking to a whole new level. Plus, it will help any skin’s hydration levels.

When you want to do something but don’t feel like being covered in product

Eye Mask

I may have made plain my overall dislike of sheet masks, but I am very willing to make an exception for these miniature versions, which allow you to mask without a face full of goop. To the sceptics who may query if these are really any different to just applying an eye serum, I am happy to report that they are, as the fabric crescents allows much more product than you’d normally apply to the eye area to stay perfectly in the intended place. (This isn’t just based on feeling, either: due to the packaging, which keeps the fabric separate from the serum for optimum freshness, you can see just how much product is included. It’s generous, to say the least. And secure – popping the liquid barrier was the only part of using these eye masks I found tricky.) As with the full face sheet masks mentioned earlier, these would be best used just prior to an event for which you’d like to look particularly fresh; you won’t still see the results of these the next day, but for the entire day on which I had applied them and into the evening, the fine lines around my eyes were incredibly plumped up, and all without any irritation of my sensitive eye area.

When you’re mad at your face

Enzyme Peel

Getting angry at your own skin may be counterproductive, but let’s not pretend it doesn’t happen. I find myself most cross when a look in the mirror reveals either a visage that is grey (dull, dry and uninspiring), or bright red (hello, breakout city). Either way, the key is to deal with the problem much more gently than you’d like to, or you will only wind up making things worse. , a mild chemical exfoliant, is a useful option for restoring life to lacklustre skin without antagonising it.

If spots are your issue, particularly whiteheads, banish any thought of squeezing and instead try , the third member of its useful SOS trio. Pleasingly green in colour and botanical in scent, it relies on kaolin clay to draw the offending impurities up and out, but its soothing glycerine base means skin is calm after use, not dried out such that it’s ready to produce more oil than before.

When your face is mad at you

Cream Masks

This much-lauded product, best used when you’ve overdone it (be it on actives the day before or alcohol the night before) and need to apologise to your skin, is the cashmere blanket of face creams. And for all that it’s known as a beloved mask, I really do mean a face cream. The directions say to leave on for 10-15 minutes and then remove with a cotton pad, but that seems criminal. Instead, my favourite way to use this is by applying a thinnish layer, much like you would a night time moisturiser, just before tucking yourself into bed. (Ideally one freshly made up with monogrammed silk sheets, naturally – this product deserves it.) Expect to wake up to plump, calm, smooth skin. If you are an adult acne sufferer like I am, and your spots generally only appear on the chin and jawline, try using it on areas of the face which aren’t affected, such as the forehead and cheeks, so you can still enjoy a comforting treat. And for those who don’t adore rose, fear not: its scent never veers into the dreaded powdery, old lady territory, and is luxurious rather than overpowering.