Set aside at least a few hours. “If you have virgin (uncolored) hair, it will always be easier to go from brunette to blonde,” Solano explains. Virgin hair is healthier and stronger than pre-colored/processed hair, and is therefore more able to handle a process like this. It will lift evenly, whereas pre-colored hair can lift to different levels in different places, meaning it can be harder to make the color even. “If you have permanent color in your hair history, it’s still possible, but you’re going to have to make sure you and your colorist set a plan.”

First and foremost, when you get to the salon, “a strand test [where the colorist tests the hair dye on a small hidden strand of hair] is also a mus. “Depending on your previous color, this will give the stylist an idea if the goal for your hair color can be made a reality.” A strand test will tests the porosity and elasticity of hair to show you how easily (or not) your shade of brown will lighten. This usually takes 15 to 30 mins and will help assess what level of lightening your hair can handle.

The actual process for going blonde differs based on many factors: Your initial brunette shade, desired blonde shade, hair history, and more. Hair’s natural texture can affect the way it lifts and what it can handle, Garrone adds. “Kinky hair can be more fragile, but may lift really fast, thick or coarse hair can be stronger, but take longer to lift,” she says. But generally speaking, “going two shades lighter than your natural brunette color will require you to use bleach,” Solano says. And “if you want to do a double process blonde (bright blonde or platinum) you’ll likely need two bleach applications back to back, which takes at the very least four hours.”

What should you do before your salon appointment?

“Treatments, treatments, treatments,” says Lee. “Hair color loves healthy hair, and hair will accept color with open arms when it’s healthy as well; when your hair is damaged and you try to lighten it, it will break.” Garrone adds, “Hair that is healthy will usually lift the easiest and quickest.” That’s why you want your hair to be in its best condition before going blonde. Solano recommends using deep conditioning treatments for a month before, like OGX Extra Strength Hydrate & Repair + Argan Oil of Morocco Hair Mask, and in-salon bonding treatments, like Olaplex, which all three colorists recommend. Also try to minimize heat styling the weeks before going blonde.

Come with hair that’s not freshly-washed. No matter what level of blonde you are going for, you should always “come with hair that is not too clean and not too dirty,” Garrone explains. “If your hair is washed that day, the product can irritate your freshly cleaned scalp, and if your hair is too dirty, its natural oils can interrupt and stall the lightening process.” The happy medium? “Hair that was washed two to four days before your appointment,”

Expert tips on how to do it right, without damage.

While we love a good DIY beauty treatment, bleaching your hair at home does not fall into the same category as your beloved #SelfCareSunday face mask. This is one process that is typically best handled by professionals at the salon. Yet, times are a-changing and many beauty treatments that were once thought to be salon- or spa-only are now being attempted at home, including bleaching your own hair.

Fortunately, there are ways to go lighter — and do it safely. (And by safely, we do not mean using Clorox; that bleach is most definitely not meant for hair!) So for those who just can’t resist going the DIY route, we turned all of the tips, tricks, and expert advice you need to know about how to bleach your hair at home without damage.

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First things first: Is bleaching your own hair a bad idea?

Not if it’s done properly, Valles says. “When you are in the salon, colorists are careful to not leave in any hair lightening products for too long or use high volume developers that can cause damage,” she explains. “If you’re doing it at home, always carefully follow the instructions on the package.” That said, if you have dark hair and want to go platinum, you can’t reach that level of lightening with one round of bleach. Valles advises working your way up through different levels of blonde with enough time, ideally a few months, in between each bleaching to let your hair heal.

You ideally want to start with healthy hair before bleaching. Valles typically looks at the hair to make sure it’s not too dry, overly chemically-treated, and doesn’t have a ton of split ends. One way to prevent damage is to bleach just your roots instead of your whole head. “The roots are virgin hair that has not been chemically-treated,” she explains. If you’ve never chemically-treated or colored your hair, consider yourself lucky; you have a better chance of not damaging your hair if you decide to do a DIY bleach job.