Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Noah’s Ark – Elephants Knitting Free Pattern”

It’s difficulty level is over-intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

MEASUREMENT
To centre Back 17cm (6¾in)

MATERIALS
F071 Snuggly Baby Bamboo DK main shades 116 or 109 2 x 50g balls
Oddments of shades 120 and 170
1 Pair of 3¼mm Knitting Needles
Stuffing. Small amount of black yarn for eyes.

ABBREVIATIONS
cm centimetres, mm millimetres, in inches, M main, C contrast, k knit, p purl,
inc increase, psso pass slipped stitch over, rem remain, rep repeat, sts stitches,
s1 slip one stitch knitways, tbl through back of loop, tog together.
M1 make 1 stitch – pick up loop between last and next stitch and work into the back of
this loop.
st-st stocking stitch. 1st Row. Knit. 2nd Row. Purl. Rep these 2 rows.

BODY
(Worked in 1 piece commencing
from back end)
Using M cast on 30 sts.
Working in st-st (throughout) proceed
as follows:-
Next Row. Knit.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K2, * m1, k2 rep from * to
end. 44 sts.
Next and Every Alternate Row. Purl.
Next Row. Inc in 1 st st, k20, m1, k2,
m1, k19, inc in next st, k1. 48 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, knit to last
2sts, inc in next st, k1. 50 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, k23, m1, k2,
m1, k22, inc in next st, k1. 54 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, knit to last 2

sts, inc in next st, k1. 56 sts.
Work 13 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K25, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog,
k25. 54 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Rep last 4 rows 3 times more. 48 sts.
Work 4 rows without shaping.
Next Row. (K2tog) 24 times. 24 sts.
Next Row. (P2tog) 12 times. 12 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

HEAD

Using M cast on 25 sts.
Working in st-st (throughout) proceed
as follows:-
Next Row. K11, m1, k3, m1, k11. 27 sts.

Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k5, m1, k11. 29 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k7, m1, k11. 31 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k9, m1, k11. 33 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k11, m1, k11.
35 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k13, m1, k11.
37 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k15, m1, k11.
39 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Work 8 rows without shaping, placing a
marker at each end of last row.
Next Row. K2tog, k16, s1, k2tog, psso,
k16, k2tog. 35 sts.
Next Row. P2tog, purl to last 2 sts,
p2tog. 33 sts.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 31 sts.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more.19 sts.
Work 7 rows without shaping.

SHAPE TRUNK
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 17 sts.
Work 5 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 15 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Break off M and join in C.
Knit 2 rows.
Next Row. (K2tog) 3 times, k3, (k2tog)
3 times. 11 sts.
Next Row. P2tog, purl to last 2 sts,
p2tog. 9 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

LEGS (Make 4)
Using M cast on 16 sts.
Work 22 rows in st-st.
Break off M and join in C.
Knit 2 rows.
Next Row. K1, (k2tog) 7 times, k1. 9 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. (K2tog) twice, k1, (k2tog)
twice. 5 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

EARS (Make 4 pieces)
Using M cast on 12 sts.
Next Row. Inc in each st to last st, k1.
23 sts.
Work 7 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 21 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 19 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more. 13 sts.
Next Row. (K2tog) 3 times, k1, (k2tog)
3 times. 7 sts.
Cast off purlways.

TO MAKE UP

Working from given spot diagram,
using C, randomly Swiss darn each piece with the spots.

Join side edges
and stuff Back working towards the
cast on edge. Fold cast on edge in half
and sew edges together. Join side edges
of legs and stuff. Sew side edges of
trunk and stuff to marker. Fold cast on
edge at top of head in half, sew
together and stuff. Place open end of
head around gathered end of body and
sew in place. Sew sides edges of 2
sections of ear, together leaving cast on
edge open. Sew ears approximately 7
stitches back from head shaping, leaving a 2cm, (¾in) gap between ears.
Using black yarn work a French knot
with a straight stitch to each side for
eyes. Cut 8 lengths of main yarn 40cm,
(15¾in) long to make a twisted cord
tail. Make a knot in tail leaving 3cm,
1¼in) fringe and cut across straight.
Fasten to top of cast on edge of Back.
Cut 8 lengths of yarn 10cm, (¾in) long
and fasten together, sewing to centre
of head to form tuft. Trim to about
2cm, (¾in).

The post How To Create Knitted Noah’s Ark – Elephants | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

As you remember we shared “Teddy Bear Pattern” with you. Now time to reform Ted’s wardrobe

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with “Knitted Ted Bear’s Wardrobe”

First Elegant Piece of Ted’s Wardrobe

Ted Bear Jacket

Finished size
Completed jacket measures approx. 8 cm (31/4 in) long and 15.5 cm (6 in) wide from left sleeve cuff to right sleeve cuff.
Completed jumper measures approx. 10 cm (4 in) long and approx. 15.5 cm (6 in) wide from sleeve edge to sleeve edge.

Yarn
Rowan Alpaca Soft DK 1 x 50g
Jacket shown in Green Teal 213.
Jumper shown in Autumn Gold 220.

Needles
Jacket only: 1 pair 3.25mm (no.10) (US 3) needles.
Jacket & Jumper: 1 pair 4mm (no.8) (US 6) needles.

Extras
Jacket:
2 small buttons.
2 x safety pins.
2 x stitch holders or large safety pins.

Jumper:
2 x stitch holders or large safety pins.

Tension
22 sts and 30 rows to 10 cm measured over st st using 4mm (US 6) needles.

Pattern Note
The neckline on Ted’s jumper is quite snug so you might find it easier to insert his head into the jumper before fully stuffing.
Omit buttons & buttonholes from jacket if knitting for a baby or small child.

Jacket
Using 3.25mm (US 3) needles cast on 14 sts.

RIGHT FRONT

Work 4 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Row 5 K2, cast off 2 sts (3 sts on right needle), K to end. 12 sts.
Row 6 K to buttonhole gap, cast on 2 sts, K to end.
14 sts.
Work 2 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Change to 4mm needles.
Row 9 Knit.
Row 10 P to last 6 sts, K6.
Row 11 & 12 As rows 9 & 10.
Row 13 K2, cast off 2 (3 sts on right needle), K to end.12 sts.
Row 14 P to last 4 sts, K2, cast on 2, K2. 14 sts.
Row 15 Knit.
Row 16 Cast on 7 sts, K2, P to last 6 sts, K6. 21 sts.
Row 17 K6, SSK, K to end. 20 sts.
Row 18 K2, P to last 6 sts, K6.
Row 19 K1, SSK, K to end. 19 sts.
Row 20 K2, P to last 5 sts, K5.
Row 21 K5, SSK, K to end. 18 sts.
Row 22 As row 20.
Row 23 K1, SSK, K to end. 17 sts.
Row 24 K2, P to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 25 K1, SSK, K to end. 16 sts.
Row 26 K2, P to last 3 sts, K3.
Slip these 16 sts onto a holder for right back.

LEFT FRONT

Using 3.25mm (US 3) needles cast on 14 sts.

Work 8 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Change to 4mm needles.
Next row Knit.
Next row K6, P to end.
These 2 rows form main patt.
Cont in main patt for 6 rows.
Next row Cast on 7 sts, K to last 8 sts, K2tog, K to end.
20 sts.
Next row K6, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 19 sts
Next row K5, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 7 sts, K2tog, K to end. 18 sts
Next row K5, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 17 sts
Next row K4, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 16 sts
Next row K3, P to last 2 sts, K2.

BACK

Next row K to last 3 sts, slip the 3 g st button band stitches onto a safety pin, cast on 9 sts, slip 3 g st button band stitches from holder onto a 2nd safety pin, K rem 13 sts from holder.
35 sts on needle.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, P to last 2 sts, K2. 28 sts.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, K to end. 21 sts.
Beg with P row, work 7 rows in st st ending on a WS row.
Change to 3.25mm (US 3) needles.
Work 8 rows in g st.
Cast off.

NECKBAND

Using 4mm (US 6) needles join yarn to 3 sts from safety pin on right button band.
Work 10 rows in g st.
Cast off.
Rep as set, using 3 sts from safety pin on left button band.

Making up

Join cast off edges of neckband at centre back and sew neckband in position evenly along neck edge.
Using mattress st, join sleeve and side seams
Sew buttons in position to match button holes.

Ladies Give It Up For The Best Cozy Piece of Ted‘s Wardrobe

Ted Bear Jumper

Pocket lining
Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 13 sts.
Beg with K row, work 11 rows in st st ending on a RS row.
Break off yarn and leave these 13 sts on a holder.

Jumper
Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 21 sts.

FRONT

Row 1 K1, *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Beg with K row, work 8 rows in st st.
Next row K5, P1, (K1, P1) 5 times, K to end.
Next row P5, K1, (P1, K1) 5 times, P to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Next row K5, cast off next 11 sts in rib, K to end.
Next row P4, with RS of pocket lining facing WS of front section – purl the next st together with the first st of pocket lining, P to last pocket lining st, P this st together with next st on left needle tbl, P to end.
Next row Knit.

Next row Cast on 7 sts, K2, P to end. 28 sts.
Next row Cast on 7 sts, K to end. 35 sts.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Break off yarn and slip first 11 sts onto a holder for left side, join yarn and knit centre 13 sts, slip next 11 sts onto a holder for right side.
Work 2 rows in g st across centre 13 sts.
Cast off.

BACK

Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 13 sts.
Work 2 rows in g st.
Break off yarn.
Next row With WS facing, (K2, P9) from right side
holder, P13 from needle, (P9, K2) from left
side holder. 35 sts.
Next row Knit.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, P to last 2 sts, K2. 28 sts.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, K to end. 21 sts.
Beg with P row, work 15 rows in st st.
Row 1 K1, *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Cast off in rib.

Making up

Sew pocket lining in place on reverse of jumper
Join neckband edges
Join sleeve and side seams using mattress st.

The post Time To Reform Knitted Ted Bear’s Wardrobe with Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Knitted Face Scrubbies”

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton yarn (I’ve knit these up in Sugar ‘n Cream, Crafter’s Secret, Knit Picks Dishie, and I Love This
Cotton and they all work very well, though some are easier to knit with than others)
• Size 3.75mm (US 5) DPN needles.
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry Needle for finishing and sewing in ends.

Abbreviations

K – Knit P – Purl
KFB – Knit the front and back of a stitch, increasing the stitch by one. (Use the make one stitch increase of your choice here,
KFB is only used for simplicity.)

Pattern

Cast on 6 stitches (I use the Old Norwegian cast on or the Long-Tail Cast On).
Place 2 stitches on each dpn and begin working in the round, marking the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.
This is the most fiddly part until you are a couple rows in.
Row 1 and every odd row: Purl
Row 2: KFB every stitch (12 stitches)
Row 4: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row (18 stitches)
Row 6: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row (27 stitches)
Row 8: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row – K1 (40 stitches)
Row 10: Bind off all stitches except the last 2 using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (Knitty has a great tutorial)

Strap

With the two stitches left after binding off, you want to pick up two
stitches for a total of four stitches to begin the strap. I like to do this
by knitting the two stitches, then picking one up in the gap left
between here and the beginning of your bind off and then one from
the beginning of the bind off itself.
From here on you will be working back and forth on two dpns
instead of in the round. You can do garter stitch or stockinette stitch
according to your tastes. I work 21 rows (your results may vary),
slipping the first stitch on each row for a neater edge.

Finishing

Once you reach the length of strap you desire, you have a few ways
you can finish your scrubbie.

Method 1: Bind off your four stitches and then sew them to the
opposite edge.
Method 2: Cut yarn to leave a 7-8 inch tail. With your tapestry
needle join your live stitches to the opposite edge.
Sew in your ends and cut the excess yarn and you have a face scrubbie!

The post The Best Way To Make Knitted Face Scrubbies appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Amigurumi Deers

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work
• SSK (SLIP, SLIP, KNIT) : Slip a stitch (as if to knit it) to
  the right-hand needle, slip a second stitch in the same
  way, slip both stitches together back to the left-hand
  needle and knit together through the back loops.

M a t e r i a l s

• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a mid brown colour: Yarn A
• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a beige colour: Yarn B
• 4ply/fingering weight yarn (approx. 4m/4yds) in a
dark brown colour for the antlers
• Scraps of 4ply black yarn 4ply for the eyes, nose
and facial features
• Toy stuffing
• A tiny button

N o t i o n s

• Knitting needles: A pair each of straight 3mm (US 2.5)
and 2.75mm (US 2) and two 2.75mm (US 2) DPNs
(double pointed needles)
• Tapestry needle

F i n i s h e d  s i z e

Finished deer is approx 23cm (9 inches) from the tip
of the toes to the top of the head
G a u g e:
Gauge for deer: 6 stitches x 9 rows to 1 inch
Gauge for clothes: 7 stitches x 10 rows to 1 inch

Th e  p a t t e r n  i n s t r u c t i o n s

The deer is made using exactly the same instructions as written in either of my fox patterns, there are however
some differences in the yarn used and in construction:
• For Yarn A use a mid brown colour (instead of a rust) and for Yarn B a beige colour (instead of cream).
Here I have used Cascade 220 worsted yarn in Praline 9695 (Yarn A) and Beige 8021 (Yarn B)
• The ears are joined to the sides of the head, rather than the top as in the fox, see notes on Ears below,
• Once the ears are joined, there are optional antlers to make, see antler instructions.
• After joining the ears and antlers, speckles are embroidered onto the top of the head using duplicate
stitch. Then the eyes, nose and mouth are added (as detailed in the fox pattern).

H e a d:
Knit, finish and stuff the head exactly as detailed, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and a beige yarn (instead of cream) for Yarn B.

E a r s: (make two the same):
Make the ears exactly as detailed on either Page 5 or Page 16 of the fox pattern, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and for Yarn B a beige yarn (instead of cream). Don’t use black yarn to tip the
outer ear, instead work it entirely in Yarn A.

Once the ears are finished and sewn together
use the cast on tail to sew together the front edges at the base of each ear.

Join the ears to the sides of the head, aligning them 4 rows back from the inner edge of the first row of lighter
colour on the cheek. Use the two Yarn A tails from the ear to join both the top side and bottom side of
the ear. Once the ear is fully attached, tie both yarn tails together at the back of the ear and sew them
through the head and out of the open seam underneath. Join the second ear in the same way then tie
all 4 ends from the ears together and trim excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.
If you would like your deer to have antlers, then now is the time to make and attach them.

A n t l e r s: (make a mirrored pair *):

Starting at the thick base of the antler and finishing at the top points. Use dark brown 4 ply weight yarn and
2.75mm needles to cable cast on 8 stitches, leaving an 8 inch tail for attaching it to the head with later.

row 1: (wrong side) Purl
rows 2-5: Beginning with a Knit row and ending with a Purl row, work 4 rows of stocking stitch
row 6: Change to a 2.75mm DPN (double pointed needle), K2tog, K2 (3 stitches)
leave the remaining 4 stitches un-worked (transfer them to a stitch holder if you prefer). Continue on
the 3 stitches only and with 2 DPNs work an i-cord like so:
row 7: Now the 3 stitches are on the right-hand needle and the working yarn is coming from the left-most
stitch. Slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other and without turning the needle,
transfer it to your left hand. Bring the working yarn across the back of the work and Knit the 3 stitches
again, you will need to keep a tight tension. The only difference from a normal knitted row is that the
yarn is coming from the last stitch and across the back of the work instead of from the first stitch
rows 8-12: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 five more times.
Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide
them off the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down
through the centre of the antler point and leave it hanging for now. Continue on the remaining 4 stitches:
row 6b: Leaving an 8 inch tail for seaming with later, re-join the yarn and use 2 x DPNs: K2, SSK (3 stitches)
rows 7b-9b: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 above three times.

Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide them off
the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down through the
centre of the antler point and, without deforming the antler points by pulling too hard, tie it to the short cast off
tail from the first point to secure both ends and cut short so that they will be hidden inside the finished antler.

Thread the tapestry needle with the long cast on tail from the second antler point and use it to seam the edges
of the thick lower stem of the antler using mattress stitch. When you reach the cast on edge tie both tail ends
together to secure them. That is the first antler finished.

* Make a second antler in the same way, but reverse the height of the two antler points (make the first i-cord
point 4 rows tall and the second one 7 rows tall), so that the finished pair of antlers mirror each other.
I think the antlers look best with the taller points innermost and the shorter points on the outside, but please
decide for yourself what looks best with the pair of antlers you have made – ideally the seam should run up the
back of each antler.

Next you are aiming to join the antlers so that the base of each is sewn to the top of the head in a small circle.
Thread the tapestry needle with the longest tail from one antler and sew through a stitch on the top of the
head, aligning it with the inner edge of colour change on the nose . Work all around the base of the
antler, sewing alternately through a stitch on the head and a loop of the cast on edge of the antler.

When the antler is fully attached tie the two tail ends together securely and sew them through the head and out
of the open seam underneath. Repeat with the second antler making sure they are in alignment (fig. 9). When
you are happy with positioning tie all 4 tail ends from the antlers together securely underneath the head and
trim the excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.

Once your deer head has ears and antlers you can add the embroidered camouflage speckles on the top of the
head, like so:
Cut a 14 inch length of cream yarn and use duplicate stitch/Swiss darning to stitch random single stitches
across the top of the head. I find that they look best if sewn as ‘V’ shapes when the head is facing you (rather
than upside-down ‘V’s) and 7 or 8 stitches is probably about right but you could add more if you prefer.

Once you’re happy with the speckles sew both of the cream yarn tail ends through the head and out of the
open seam underneath. Tie together to secure, before trimming them and poking ends inside the head cavity.

F a c i a l   f e a t u r e s

Finish the head by adding the nose, mouth and eyes, as detailed on Pages 7–8 of the fox pattern.

B o d y p a r t s,   f i n i s h i n g   o f f   a n d   c l o t h i n g

Continue making and finishing the body, legs and arms of the animal and the clothing by following the
instructions from pages 8–15 in either of my fox patterns.

The deer pictured on the front cover of this pattern are wearing the clothing included in the fox patterns. Their
clothes are knitted in the following yarns: Dress, socks and sweater in BC Garn Alba, shades 16 cream, 30
mushroom and 32 rose; shoes in Drops Safran 22 light brown; shorts in BC Garn Allino in CL01 brown.
I hope you’ve enjoyed working from this pattern and are pleased with the deer that you make from it.

The post Small Steps Before Christmas With Amigurumi Deers appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Ginger Breadboy Knitting Free Pattern”

It’s difficulty level is over-intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

Introduction Before Jump In Knitting

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work

Materials Required

Worsted weight yarn – about 90 yards
Size 4 double pointed needles
Darning needle
4 stitch markers
Stuffing
Embellishments of your choosing

Special Note
M1 = make one stitch: Lift the right “leg” of the next stitch (the right side of the stitch directly
below the next stitch on your left needle), place it on the left needle, then knit it as you would any
other stitch.

Body and Legs

• CO 30 sts onto 3 dpns and work the following rounds:
• 1) K5, pm, K5, pm, K10, pm, K5, pm, K5
• 2) (K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, sm, M1) repeat to last few sts after marker, K to end
• 3) K all sts
  Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until there are a total of 86 sts separated between the markers as
  12 – 19 – 24 – 19 – 12. End after a plain K round, then work the rounds below removing the stitch
  markers as you reach them on round 1:
  • 1) K12, slip the next 19 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, K24, slip the next 19 sts onto a piece
    of scrap yarn, K12 (48 sts)
  • 2) K all sts
  • 3) K11, M1, K2, M1, K22, M1, K2, M1, K11
  • 4) K all sts
  • 5) K12, M1, K2, M1, K24, M1, K2, M1, K12 (56 sts)
  • 6-13) K all sts
  • 14) K28, slip the next 28 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, CO 2 sts (30 sts)
  • 15-35) K all sts
  • 36) (K1, K2tog) repeat to end of round
  • 37) K all sts
  • 38) (K2tog) repeat to end of round

Cut yarn, insert end into a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Pull tightly closed and
secure. Place the 28 sts from the other leg onto 3 dpns. Knit across all of them, then CO 2 sts, and
repeat rounds 15-38 above.

To seam hole between the legs, turn your Gingerbread Boy inside out and hold sides of hole together.
Make one seam from front to back (or back to front). Turn right side out again.

Arms

Place 19 sts from one of the arms onto 3 dpns. PU 2 sts between needles 1 and 3 at bottom of
arm, then work the following rounds:

• 1-10) K all sts
• 11) (K1, K2tog) repeat to end of round
• 12) K all sts
• 13) (K2tog) repeat to end of round

Cut yarn, insert end into a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Pull tightly closed and
secure. Place the 19 sts from the other arm onto 3 dpns. PU 2 sts as above, and work rounds 1-13.
Darn small holes beneath the arms.

Head

Beginning just to the right of the first CO st, (center of your Gingerbread Boy’s chest), PU 30 sts (1 in
each of the original CO sts) and work the following rounds:

• 1) K all sts
• 2) K7, M1, K2, M1, K12, M1, K2, M1, K7
• 3) K all sts
• 4) K8, M1, K2, M1, K14, M1, K2, M1, K8
• 5) K all sts
• 6) K9, M1, K2, M1, K16, M1, K2, M1, K9
• 7-14) K all sts
• 15) K7, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K16, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K7
• 16) K all sts
• 17) K6, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K14, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6
• 18) K all sts
• 19) K5, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K5
• 20) K all sts
• 21) K4, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4
• 22) K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K8, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3
• 23) K2, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2
• 24) K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1

Cut yarn, insert end into a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Do not pull closed yet.
Stuff your Gingerbread Boy beginning at the bottom of his legs and working upward to top of head.
Pull closed and secure. Use a dpn to help spread the stuffing out evenly throughout his body, and to the
ends of the arms and legs.

Now for the fun part!

Your Gingerbread Boy can be embellished using any materials you like. This is a chance to show off
your creativity! Buttons, rickrack, ribbon, etc. can be sewn on, or attached with a tiny bit of hot glue. You
can embroider your Gingerbread Boy with scrap yarn, or even try some fabric paint. Have fun!

The post How To Make Ginger Breadboy Knitting | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Today we are going to get ready ourselves for cold but cosy nights with the best knitting website Cocador.

Here Is The Sweetest Knitted Teddy Bear Free Pattern

BEFORE STARTING

Yarn
Rowan Felted Tweed
1 x 50g ball (shown in Clay 177)

Needles
1 pair 3.25mm needles.

Extras
Oddment of contrasting yarn for face.
Washable toy stuffing.

Tension
24 sts and 34 rows to 10 cm measured over st st using 3.25mm needles.

Finished size
Completed Ted measures approx. 24 cm (91/2 in) tall and 17 cm (7 in) wide

Ted Bear
Using 3.25mm needles cast on 9 sts.

BACK

Next row Knit across sts from needle and sts from
holder. 22 sts.
Beg with P row, work 29 rows in st st.

Back of Arms
Cast on 11 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 44 sts.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 46 sts.
Beg with P row, work 5 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
44 sts.
Next row Purl.

Back of Head
Cast off 16 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 12 sts.

Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 14 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 16 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 18 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 20 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 22 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
20 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
18 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
16 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
14 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
12 sts.
Next row Purl.

Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
10 sts.
Next row Purl.

Front of Head
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 12 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 14 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K2, M1, K8, M1, K2, M1, K1. 18 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K5, M1, K6, M1, K5, M1, K1. 22 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K8, M1, K4, M1, K8, M1, K1. 26 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K11, M1, K2, M1, K11, M1, K1. 30 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K13, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K13. 28 sts.
Next row Purl.

Next row K12, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K12. 26 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K11, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K11. 24 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K10, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K10. 22 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K9, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K9. 20 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K5, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K5,
K2tog, K1. 16 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K3, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K3,
K2tog, K1. 12 sts.

Front of Arms
Cast on 16 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 44 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 46 sts.
Beg with P row, work 5 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
44 sts.

Back of Legs
*Row 1 Knit
Row 2 Purl
Row 3 K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 11 sts.
Beg with P row, work 21 rows in st st.**
Break off yarn and leave sts on holder.
Using 3.25mm needles cast on 9 sts.
Work as first leg from * to **

BODY

Cast off 11 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 22 sts.
Beg with P row, work 29 rows in st st.

Front of Legs & Feet
Next row K11, place rem 11 sts on holder.
*Beg with P row, work 14 rows in st st.
Place marker in first & last st of last row.
Beg with P row, work 11 rows in st st.
Break off yarn.
With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along right hand side of work from marker to needle, Knit 11 sts from needle, then pick up and knit 11 sts from left hand side of work to marker. 33 sts.
Beg with P row, work 9 rows in st st.
Cast off 11 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 11 sts.
Beg with K row, work 10 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 9 sts.

Cast off Pwise on WS row.
Re-join yarn to rem 11 sts and knit to end.
Complete as set for 1st leg & foot from *

Ears (make 2)
Using 3.25mm needles cast on 7 sts.
Work 5 rows in g st.
Next row K2tog tbl, K to last st, K2tog. 5 sts.
Next row Knit.
Next row K2tog tbl, K to last st, K2tog. 3 sts.
Cast off.

Making Up
Sew bases of feet in position.
Fold bear in half and join back section to front along all seams, using mattress st and stuffing as you go.
Sew ears in position on head.
Using oddment of contrasting yarn, embroider eyes, nose and mouth on head, using image as a guide

The post The Sweetest Knitted Teddy Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Great Up North Cabin Mitten Pattern” which inspired by Norwegian mittens and cold Wisconsin winters

It’s difficulty level is intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

Materials

Worsted Weight yarn in Red, Light Blue, White, and Light Green Size US 7 double-pointed needles Size US 8 double-pointed needles Yarn needle

CUFF, BOTH MITTENS

With white yarn and US 7 seven needles, cast on 30 stitches. Divide onto three or four needles, join, and work 16 rows of k1 p1 ribbing in the round.

BODY, RIGHT HAND MITTEN

Round 1: Switch to US 8 needles and work one round in Stockinette Stitch, making 3 stitches, spaced evenly around. (33 sts total)

Round 2: k20, place marker, m1 right, k1, m1 left, place marker, k12

Round 3: Knit all stitches

Round 4: work Chart A as indicated, slip marker, with white, m1 right, knit all stitches between markers, m1 left, slip marker, work Chart B as indicated (Be sure to check that you are reading all charts as indicated above the chart. If you are doing it right, there will be a white stitch on either side of the color-work sections.)

Note: The section between the markers is the thumb gusset. Always work the thumb gusset in white, wrapping the other yarn around the white every two or three stitches to carry it over to the other side.

Round 5: work Chart A, slip marker, knit all stitches between markers in white, slip marker, work Chart B
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 until there are 13 stitches between the markers.

Next round: work Chart A to marker, remove marker, transfer all thumb gusset stitches to waste yarn, remove second marker, yarn over once in white to bridge the gap, work Chart B to end of round.

Successive rounds: work Chart A, work Chart B (Chart B now includes the stitch you created to bridge the gap over the thumb gusset)

Once you have finished working the last row of both patterns, knit one round in white. Continue to TOP OF MITTEN directions.

BODY, LEFT HAND MITTEN

Round 1: Switch to US 8 needles and work one round in Stockinette Stitch, making 3 stitches, spaced evenly around. (33 sts total)

Round 2: k20, place marker, m1 right, k1, m1 left, place marker, k12

Round 3: Knit all stitches Round 4: work Chart B as indicated, slip marker, with white, m1 right, knit all stitches between markers, m1 left, slip marker, work Chart A as indicated (Be sure to check that you are reading all charts as indicated above the chart. If you are doing it right, there will be a white stitch on either side of the color-work sections.)

Note: The section between the markers is the thumb gusset. Always work the thumb gusset in white, wrapping the other yarn around the white every two or three stitches to carry it over to the other side.

Round 5: work Chart B, slip marker, knit all stitches between markers in white, slip marker, work Chart A
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 until there are 13 stitches between the markers.

Next round: work Chart B to marker, remove marker, transfer all thumb gusset stitches to waste yarn, remove second marker, yarn over once in white to bridge the gap, work Chart A to end of round.

Successive rounds: work Chart B, work Chart A (Chart B now includes the stitch you created to bridge the gap over the thumb gusset)

Once you have finished working Charts A and B, work across the first thirteen stitches in the manor established. This is the beginning of all successive rounds. Continue to TOP OF MITTEN directions.

Knit one round in white.

TOP OF MITTEN, BOTH MITTENS

Round 1: k4, k2tog, k5. Repeat around

Round 2: k3, k2tog. Repeat around

Round 3: knit around

Round 4: k2, k2tog. Repeat around

Round 5: knit around Round 6: k1, k2tog.

Repeat around. Break yarn and use yarn needle to thread tail through the remaining six stitches.

THUMB, BOTH MITTENS

Transfer thumb gusset stitches from waste yarn to three size 8 needles as follows:

Needle 1: Pick up the stitch you previously cast on to bridge the gap over the thumb gusset, and two stitches from the stitches on waste yarn on either side of it.

Needle 2: 5 stitches

Needle 3: 4 stitches

Total Stitches: 14 Using white knit 7 rounds.

Decrease Round 1: (k2tog, k3) twice, k2tog, k2

Knit one round

Decrease Round 2: (k2tog, k2) twice, k2tog, k1 Knit one round

Decrease Round 3: (k2tog, k1) twice, k2tog

Break yarn and use yarn needle to threat tail through remaining three stitches. Turn mitten inside-out and weave in all tails.

The post How To Make Great Up North Cabin Mitten | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Winter Haze Colour Block Scarf

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
WS – wrong side
RS – right side

WHAT YOU NEED TO START

YARN

840m of worsted weight yarn
Used here:
• 2 balls of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk in Light Grey Green (colour A)
• 2 balls of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk in Denim Blue (colour B)
• 2 balls of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk in Violet (colour C)

NEEDLES
6.0 mm (US 10) needles

GAUGE
Doesn’t matter, but here I got 3 stitches and 4 rows per inch in the halfbrioche
stitch, after blocking.

FINISHED
MEASUREMENTS
82 inches (1.65 m) long and 10 inches wide, after blocking
with these instructions, but you can very easily adjust the
size.

INSTRUCTIONS

CO 30 stitches holding 2 strands of colour A together

Row 1 (WS): knit
Row 2 (RS): k1, k1 in row below
Row 3 (WS): knit
Row 4 (RS): k1 in row below, k1

Repeat rows 1-4 15 times, or until piece measures 13″ from
cast on edge, unblocked (or until desired length for the first
block is reached).

Cut one strand of colour A and pick up one strand of colour
B. Holding one strand of colour A and one strand of colour B
together, repeat rows 1-4 for 13″ (or desired length).

Cut colour A and pick up a second strand of colour B.
Holding two strands of colour B together, repeat rows 1-4
for 13″ (or desired length).

Cut one strand of colour B and pick up one strand of colour
C. Holding one strand of colour B and one strand of colour C
together, repeat rows 1-4 for 13″ inches (or desired length).

Cut colour B and pick up a second strand of colour C.
Holding two strands of colour C together, repeat rows 1-4
for 13″ (or desired length).

FINISHING

Bind off all stitches and weave in all loose ends. Block and
shape to desired length/width.

The post The Best And Easy Winter Haze Colour Block Scarf Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Handicrafter Cotton Zen Pillows

ABBREVIATIONS

Inc1P = Increase 1 stitch in next st by purling into back and
front of stitch.

MEASUREMENT
Approx 16 ins [40.5 cm] diameter.

MATERIALS

Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (Solids 400 g/14 oz;
650 m/710 yds)
2 COLOR VERSION
MC: 27215 (Robin’s Egg) 210 m /230 yds
A: 27018 (Bronze) 60 m /66 yds

Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (Ombre 340 g/12 oz;
556 m/608 yds)
SINGLE COLOR VERSION
33021 (Lotus Blossom) 295 m /323 yds
Set of four size 4.5 mm (U.S. 7) double-pointed needles. Size
4.5 mm (U.S. 7) circular knitting needle 24 ins [60 cm] long or
size needed to obtain gauge. 16 ins [40.5 cm] round pillow
form.

GAUGE

20 sts and 26 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking st.

INSTRUCTIONS

2 COLOR VERSION
Front and Back (make 2 pieces alike).
With MC and set of 4 needles, cast on 4 sts.

1st rnd: Inc 1 st in each st. 8 sts. Divide sts onto 3 needles:
(2, 3, 3). Join in rnd, placing a marker on first st.
2nd rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. Rep from * around. 16 sts.
3rd rnd: *Inc1P. P1. Rep from * around. 24 sts.
4th rnd: Purl.
5th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Rep from * around. 32 sts.
6th rnd: Knit.
7th rnd: *Inc1P. P3. Rep from * around. 40 sts.
8th rnd: Purl.
9th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Rep from * around. 48 sts.
10th rnd: With A, (K6. Place marker) 8 times.
11th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times. 56 sts.

**12th rnd: With MC, purl.
13th rnd: (Knit to 1 st before marker. Inc 1 st in next st. Slip
marker) 8 times. 64 sts.
14th rnd: Knit.
15th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times. 72 sts.
16th rnd: Purl.
17th rnd: (Knit to 1 st before marker. Inc 1 st in next st. Slip
marker) 8 times. 80 sts.
18th rnd: With A, knit.
19th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times.
88 sts.**

Rep from ** to ** for pat, inc 8 sts every alt rnd and changing
to circular needle to accommodate added sts when necessary
until work from center measures approx 8 ins [20.5 cm] for a
diameter of 16 ins [40.5 cm], ending on a 16th rnd of pat.
With MC, cast off loosely knitwise.

SINGLE COLOR VERSION

Work as for 2 Color Version omitting all references to color
changes.

FINISHING

Sew Front and Back tog, leaving 10 ins [25.5 cm] opening.
Insert pillow form. Sew opening closed.

The post The Easiest Pattern For Handicrafter Cotton Zen Pillows appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Yikes Sprites Cardigan Free Pattern

SIZE

9 mos, 12 mos, 24 months (2 yrs)
Finished Chest 19½ (22, 24) in. (49.5 (56, 61) cm)
Finished Length 9½ (10½, 11½) in. (24 (26.5, 29.5) cm)
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

MATERIALS

• 860-123 Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice: Beige
1 (1,2) Ball (A)
• 860-108 Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice: Dusty
1 (1,2) Ball (B)
• 860-110 Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice: Navy
1 (1,2) Ball (C)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 9 [5.5 mm]
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles – Size 10 [6 mm]
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Lion Brand Stitch Holders
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
• Additional Materials
4 buttons, 1 in. (25 mm) diameter

GAUGE

15 sts + 32 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION

PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib (uneven # of sts)
Row 1 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from *.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for k1, p1 Rib.

COLOR SEQUENCE
2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C, *4 rows A, 4 rows B, 4 rows C; rep from * for color sequence.

BACK

With smaller needles and A, cast on 37 (41, 45) sts.
Work 1 row in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to B and work 2 rows in k1, p1 Rib.
Free Knitting Pattern: Vanna’s Choice Yikes Stripes Cardigan Page 2 of 5
Change to C and work 2 rows in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to larger needles and A, work 4 rows in Garter st.
Change to B and work 4 rows in Garter st.
Change to C and work 4 rows in Garter st.
Continue working Color Sequence until Back measures 9½
(10½, 11½) in. (24 (26.5, 29) cm) from beg. Bind off.

Pocket Lining (make 2)

With larger needles and C, cast on 11 sts. Work in Garter
st for 2 in. (5 cm). Transfer sts to a holder.

LEFT FRONT

With smaller needles and A, cast on 23 (25, 27) sts.
Work in k1, p1 Rib and Color Sequence as for Back.
Change to larger needles and work in Garter st and Color
Sequence as for Back until Left Front measures 3 in. (7.5
cm) from beg, end with a WS row.

Pocket Welt
Continue in Color Sequence as for Back.
Next Row (RS): K6 (7, 8) sts, p1, (k1, p1) 5 times, k6 (7,
8).
Next Row: K6 (7, 8) sts, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, k6 (7, 8).
Rep last 2 rows once more.
Next Row: K6 (7, 8) sts, bind off 11 sts, k to end.
Next Row: K6 (7, 8) sts, knit 11 sts of one Pocket Lining,
k to end of row.
Work even until Left Front measures 7½ (8½, 9½) in. (19
(21.5, 24) cm), end with a RS row.

Neck Shaping
Next Row (WS): Bind off 5 (6, 7) sts, k to end of row –
18 (19, 20) sts.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge every row 6 times – 12 (13,
14) sts. Work even until Left Front measures 9½ (10½,
11½) in. (24.5 (26.5, 29) cm) from beg. Bind off. Mark
placement for 4 buttons: with first button just above
ribbing, top button½ in. (1.5 cm) below neck shaping, and
2 evenly spaced between.

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front, reversing all shaping, AT THE SAME
TIME, work buttonholes opposite markers on RS rows as
follows:
Buttonhole Row (RS): K2, k 2 sts together, yarn over, k
to end of row.

SLEEVE (make 2)

With smaller needles and A, cast on 23 (25, 27) sts.
Work in k1, p1 Rib and Color Sequence as for Back.
Change to larger needles and work in Garter st and Color
Sequence as for Back, increasing 1 st each end of every
8th row 6 times – 35 (37, 39) sts. Work even until Sleeve
measures 8 (8½, 9) in. (20.5 (21.5, 23) cm) from beg.
Bind off.

FINISHING

Sew shoulder seams.

Neckband
From RS with smaller needles and C, pick up and k 19 (20, 21) sts along Right Front neck edge, 15 (17, 17)
sts across Back neck, and 19 (20, 21) along Left Front neck edge – 53 (57, 59) sts.
Work 1 row in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to B and work 2 rows in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to C and work 1 row in k1, p1 Rib. With C, bind off.

Left Front Edging
From RS with smaller needles and A, pick up and k 4 sts along side of neckband, pick up and k 1 st in each
ridge of Garter st, and 4 sts along bottom ribbing. Bind off.

Right Front Edging
From RS with smaller needles and A, pick up and k 4 sts along bottom ribbing, pick up and k 1 st in each
ridge of Garter st, and 4 sts along side of neckband. Bind off.
Sew Pocket Linings to WS of Fronts. Sew Sleeves to body. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Sew
buttons opposite buttonholes.

The post Here Is Free Pattern of Yikes Sprites Cardigan appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Zig Zag Scarf Autumn Season Knitting

ABBREVIATIONS

inc = increas(e)(s)(ing)

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together

p = purl
rep = repeat(s)(ing)

sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)

SIZE

One Size
5 1/2 x 60 in. (14 x 152.5 cm)

MATERIALS
• 620-174 Wool-Ease Yarn: Avocado
2 Balls
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm]
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE
16 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (k every row). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the
pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less
stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or
needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
1) Modular Knitting is way of giving a ‘patchwork’ effect to your knitting without
picking up stitches or seaming. In the Modular Scarf pattern, you will work a series of
triangles that are built atop one another.
2) Sl all sts as if to knit.
Inc 1 st (kfb): knit the next stitch without removing it from the needle, then k through back
of same st to inc 1 stitch.

SCARF
Cast on 18 sts.
Right Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Note: Move yarn behind the work before you sl 1, k to end. This will ensure a neat edge.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k3, turn.
Row 4: Place marker, sl 1, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k1, turn.
Row 6: Place marker, sl 1, k to end.
Rep Rows 5 and 6 until all cast-on sts have been worked – 34 sts.
Last Row: K1, inc 1, k to end – 35 sts.
The first Equilateral Triangle will begin at lower point of the Right Triangle.

Equilateral Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until you have worked all but last 2 sts.
Next Row: Sl 1, k to end.
Last Row: K1, inc 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
The next Equilateral Triangle will begin at the point of the previous Equilateral Triangle.
Rep Equilateral Triangle until 9 Equilateral Triangles have been worked.

End Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until you have worked all but 17 sts of previous triangle.
Next Row: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Next Row: K2tog, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep last 2 rows until 3 sts remain. Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

The post The Best To Make Zig Zag Scarf Autumn Season appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “The Canyon Cowl Crochet -100% Merinos-”

ABBREVIATIONS

ch(s) – chain(s), dc – double crochet, st(s) – stitch(es), sl st – slip stitch

YARN

Red Heart Stellar, #6 super bulky weight yarn: 240 yards of #9307 Meteorite

MATERIALS

US Size P/15 (10mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge, yarn needle, scissors

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Length: 22”, Circumference: 34”

GAUGE

2 V sts and 3 rows = 3.5”

SPECIAL STITCHES

V Stitch (V st) – [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in same ch or ch space.

NOTES

1. Pattern is worked in joined rounds.
2. Ch 4 + 1 dc at beginning of each round counts as 1 V st.
3. Use a multi-colored yarn and it will reveal a subtle zig zag pattern in some places, or use two different colors and change colors each round to create a more obvious zig zag pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ch 63, sl st to 1st ch to join.

Round 1: Ch 4, 1 dc in same ch, *skip 2 chs, 1 V st in next ch; repeat from * around, skip 2 chs, sl st to 3rd ch to join – 21 V sts.

Rounds 2-17: Sl st into ch 1 space in center of 1st V st, ch 4, 1 dc in same ch space, *1 V st in ch 1 space in center of next V st; repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch to join – 21 V sts.

Round 18: Sl st into ch 1 space in center of 1st V st, ch 4, 1 dc in same ch space, *1 V st in ch 1 space in center of next V st; repeat from * around, invisible join to 3rd ch & fasten off – 21 V sts.

The post How To Make Canyon Cowl Crochet appeared first on Cocador.

Today we are going to get ready ourselves for cold but cosy nights with the best knitting website Cocador.

Here Is Sweet Cosy Slipper Socks Free Pattern

BEFORE STARTING

cm centimetres

dec decrease

in inches

k knit

mm millimetres

oz ounces

p purl

rem remaining

rep repeat

skpo sl 1, k1, pass slipped st over

sl slip

st/s stitch/es

tog together

SIZE

To fit shoe size 4-5 (6-7).

MATERIALS

• 50g/1¾oz balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Chunky:
  • 2(3) balls in Pearl 23 (A)
  • 1(2) balls in Rose 22 (B)
• Pair of 5.5mm (US 9) needles
• Pair of 6mm (US 10) needles

TENSION

15 sts and 30 rows to 10cm/4in garter st using 5.5mm (US 9) needles.

RIGHT SLIPPER

Using 6mm (US 10) needles and B cast on 40(44) sts.

Rib row [K1, p1] to end. This row forms the rib. Work a further 13 rows.

Change to 5.5mm (US 9) needles. Work a further 12 rows.

Dec row Rib 7(8), [rib2tog, rib 6(7)] 3 times, rib2tog, rib 7.

36(40) sts. Cut off B. Join in A.

K 8 rows. **

Shape instep

Next row (right side) K24(26), turn.

Next row K12, turn.

Work a further 37(43) rows in garter st on these 12 sts, ending with a right side row.

Shape toe

1st row K3, turn. 2nd row K to end. 3rd row K6, turn. 4th row K to end. 5th row K9, turn. 6th row K to end.

7th row K across all 12 sts. Break off yarn.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn at base of instep, pick up and k20(23) sts along side of instep, k2tog, k8, skpo, across centre 12 sts then pick up and

k23(26) sts along other side of instep, k rem 12(14) sts.

77(87) sts.

K 9 rows. Break off yarn.

Shape sole

Next row With right side facing, place first 31(36) sts onto right-hand needle, rejoin yarn and k12, turn.

1st row K9, turn.

2nd row K8, k2tog, turn.

3rd row K6, turn.

4th row K5, k2tog, turn.

5th row K3, turn.

6th row K2, k2tog, turn.

Next row K11, k2tog, turn.

Rep last row until 24 sts rem, k to end. Cast off.

Join back seam. With seam to centre of cast off sts, join heel seam.

LEFT SLIPPER

Work as given for right slipper to **.

Shape instep

Next row K24(26), turn.

Next row K12, turn **.

Work a further 36(42) rows in garter st on these 12 sts, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape toe

1st row K3, turn.

2nd row K to end.

3rd row K6, turn. 4th row K to end. 5th row K9, turn. 6th row K to end.

7th row K across all 12 sts.

8th row K to end. Break off yarn.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn at base of instep, pick up and k23(26) sts along side of instep, k2tog, k8, skpo across centre 12 sts then pick up and k20(23) sts along other side of instep, k rem 12(14) sts.

77(87) sts.

K 9 rows. Break off yarn.

Shape sole

Next row With right side facing, place first 34(39) sts onto right-hand needle, rejoin yarn and k12, turn.

1st row K11, k2tog, turn.

2nd row K9, turn.

3rd row K8, k2tog, turn.

4th row K6, turn.

5th row K5, k2tog, turn.

6th row K3, turn.

7th row K2, k2tog, turn.

Next row K11, k2tog, turn.

Rep last row until 24 sts rem, k to end. Cast off.

Join back seam. With seam to centre of cast off sts, join heel seam.

The post Sweet Cosy Slipper Socks Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “The Sleeve Classic Pullover -100% Wool-”

SIZE

Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X

Finished Bust 37 (40, 43, 47, 51) in. (94 (101.5, 109, 119.5, 129.5) cm)
Finished Length 23 1/2 (24, 24, 24 1/2, 25) in. (59.5 (61, 61, 62, 63.5) cm)

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

MATERIALS
• 620-098 Quality Brand Wool-Ease – Yarn: Natural Heather
5 (6, 6, 7, 8) Balls
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm]
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE

19 sts + 27 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION

PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

SWEATER

BACK
Cast on 80 (86, 92, 102, 108) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib
until piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) from beg,
increase 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) sts evenly spaced across last
row – 88 (96, 102, 112, 120) sts.
Change to St st (k on RS, p on WS) and work until piece
measures 14 (14, 14, 14, 14 1/2) in. (35.5 (35.5, 35.5,
35.5, 36.5) cm) from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Armholes
Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 78 (86,
88, 96, 104) sts. Dec 1 st each side every other row 4
(6, 6, 8, 9) times – 70 (74, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Work until armhole measures 8 1/2 (9, 9, 9 1/2, 9 1/2)
in. (21.5 (23, 23, 24, 24) cm), end with a WS row.

Shape Neck
K24 (25, 25, 26, 29), bind off center 22 (24, 26, 28, 28)
sts, k to end of row.

Left Shoulder
Working on left shoulder sts only, continue as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to end of
row.
Row 2: Bind off 3 sts, k to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 3 sts, k to end of row.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.
Right Shoulder
Rejoin yarn to work right shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 3 sts, p to end of row.
Row 2: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 3 sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, k to end of row.
Purl 1 row. Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

FRONT

Work same as Back until armhole measures 6 1/4 (6
3/4, 6, 6 1/2, 6 1/2) in. (16 (17, 15, 16, 16) cm), end
with a WS row – 70 (74, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Shape Neck
K28 (29, 29, 30, 33), bind off next 14 (16, 18, 20, 20)
sts, k to end of row.

Right Shoulder

Working on right shoulder sts only, purl 1 row.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next RS row 3 (3, 2, 2, 2) times.
At same edge, dec 1 st every other row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6)
times – 18 (19, 19, 20, 23) sts. P 1 row. K 1 row.
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to end of
row.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Knit.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

Left Shoulder
Rejoin yarn to work Left Shoulder.
Bind off 2 sts at the beg of every WS row 3 (3, 2, 2, 2)
times. Dec 1 st at beg of every WS row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6)
times – 18 (19, 19, 20, 23) sts. Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row.
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to end of row.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, k to end of row.
Row 4: Purl.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)
Cast on 40 (42, 44, 48, 50) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib until
piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) from beg, inc 6 sts
evenly spaced across last row – 46 (48, 50, 54, 56) sts.
Knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
Next Row: Knit, inc 1 st each side—48 (50, 52, 56, 58).
Continue to work in St st, AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st
each side every 6 rows 9 (9, 10, 10, 10) times – 66 (68,
72, 76, 78) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11,
11 1/2, 11 1/2, 11 1/2) in. (28 (28, 29, 29, 29) cm)
from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap
Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 56
(58, 58, 60, 62) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every other row 4 (5, 5, 4, 5) times –
48 (48, 48, 52, 52) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times –
38 (38, 38, 40, 40) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every other row 3 times – 32 (32, 32,
34, 34) sts.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows; 3 sts at beg of next
2 rows; 7 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 8
(8, 8, 10, 10) sts.

FINISHING
Sew left shoulder seam.
Neckband: From RS, join yarn at right shoulder and
pick up and k34 (36, 38, 40, 40) sts along Back neck, 44
(46, 50, 54, 54) sts along Front neck – 78 (82, 88, 94,
94) sts.
Work 5 rows in K1, p1 Rib. Bind off.
Sew right shoulder and neckband seam. Sew in Sleeves.
Sew side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends.

The post The Greatest Way To Knit Sleeve Classic Pullover appeared first on Cocador.

Great chance  to prepare your baby for winter with Cocador’s Free Knitting Patterns.

Cardigan & Hat Merinos Free Pattern by Cocador

COMPOSITION

100 % Merinos Wool

TO FIT

a) newborn – b) 3 – c) 6 mths HEIGHT a) 52 – b) 60 – c) 67 cm

MATERIALS

P. MÉRINOS 3.5: a) 3 – b) 3 – c) 4 balls of FLANELLE or ÉCRU or POUDRE or ABSINTHE or MARINE

1 pair of 3.5 mm (UK – – US 4) knitting needles 2 x 14 mm buttons

STITCH

Garter st

TENSION

Be sure to check your tension before starting to knit. If tension is too tight, change to larger needles; if it is too loose, change to smaller needles.

23 sts and 46 rows to 10 cm measured over garter st using 3.5 mm needles

BACK

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 55 – b) 58 – c) 62 sts and work in garter st. When work meas a) 13 – b) 15 – c) 17 cm from beg, shape armholes. On each edge, cast off 5 sts once [a) 45 – b) 48 – c) 52 sts], then work straight.

When work meas a) 21 – b) 24 – c) 27 cm from beg, shape neck. Cast off a) 17

– b) 20 – c) 22 center sts, then finish 1 side at a time.

When work meas a) 22 – b) 25 – c) 28 cm from beg, cast off rem a) b) 14 – c) 15 sts (for shoulders).

RIGHT RONT

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 39 – b) 41 – c) 44 sts and work in garter st. When work meas a) 13 – b) 15 – c) 17 cm from beg, shape armhole. On left edge, cast off 5 sts once [a) 34 – b) 36 – c) 39 sts], then work straight.

When work meas a) 19 – b) 22 – c) 25 cm from beg, shape neck. On right edge, cast off a) 20 – b) 22 – c) 24 sts once, then work straight.

When work meas a) 22 – b) 25 – c) 28 cm from beg, cast off rem a) b) 14 – c) 15 sts (for shoulder).

Work Left Front, reverse shaping.

SLEEVES

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 37 – b) 39 – c) 41 sts and work in garter st. Inc on each edge: a) on foll 18th rows, inc 1 st twice – b) on foll 18th rows, inc 1 st 3 times – c) on foll 16th rows, inc 1 st 4 times

[a) 41 – b) 45 – c) 49 sts]

When work meas a) 11.5 – b) 16 – c) 18 cm from beg, mark selv sts, then work straight.

When work meas a) 13.5 – b) 18 – c) 20 cm from beg, cast off all sts. Work other sleeve in same way.

MAKE UP

Sew shoulder seams. Join sleeves to body between marked sts.

Sew seams for sides and sleeves. Make 2 buttonholes by widening sts; make 1st buttonhole below neck and foll buttonhole 5 cm further down. Sew buttons.

HAT

No. 147 – T17 – 439

A and B

TO FIT

a) newborn – b) 3 – c) 6 mths

HAT SIZE: a) circum. 32 x ht 13.5 cm – b) circum. 34 x ht 15 cm – c) circum. 38 x ht 16 cm

MATERIALS

P. MÉRINOS 3.5: a) 1 – b) 1 – c) 1 ball of FLANELLE or ÉCRU 1 pair of 3.5 mm (UK – – US 4) knitting needles

Garter st

TENSION

Be sure to check your tension before starting to knit. If tension is too tight, change to larger needles; if it is too loose, change to smaller needles.

23 sts and 46 rows to 10 cm measured over garter st using 3.5 mm needles

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 39 – b) 41 – c) 45 sts and work in garter st for

a) 13.5 – b) 15 – c) 16 cm, then cast off. Work another section in same way.

Join sections and sew top of hat.

The post How To Make Cardigan & Hat Merinos As Baby Outfit appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Knitted City Stripes Dog Sweater.

This cute dog sweater will keep your puppy pretty and warm!

It’s so easy level.

SIZE: Small, Medium, Large, 1X
Finished Chest 18 (22, 26, 30) in. [45.5 (56, 66, 76) cm] around widest point
Finished Length 12 (17, 20, 24) in. [30.5 (43, 51, 61) cm]

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

CORRECTIONS: None

MATERIALS
• 640-132 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Lemongrass
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (A)
• 640-131 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Grass
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (B)
• 640-146 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Fig
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (C)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 13 [9 mm]
• Large-Eyed Blunt Needles

GAUGE:
8 sts + 16 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

NOTES:

STRIPE PATTERN
2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C in Garter st throughout

DOG SWEATER

BACK
With A, cast on 25 (31, 37, 43) sts.
Work in Garter st in Stripe Pattern until piece measures 7
(12, 14, 16) in. [18 (30.5, 35.5, 40.5) cm] from beg.
Dec Row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1 – 23
(29, 35, 41) sts.
Continuing in Stripe Pattern, K 3 rows. Rep Dec Row every
4th row 4 (4, 5, 7) more times – 15 (21, 25, 27) sts.
Bind off.

UNDERPIECE

With A, cast on 11 (13, 15, 17) sts. Work in Garter st in
Stripe Pattern until piece measures 4 1/2 (7 1/4, 10 1/4,
10 3/4) in. [11.5 (18.5, 26, 27.5) cm] from beg.
Dec Row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1 – 9
(11, 13, 15) sts.

Continuing in Stripe Pattern, K 4 rows. Rep Dec Row every
5th row 2 (3, 4, 5) more times – 5 sts.
Bind off.

FINISHING

Starting from bind off edge, sew sides of Underpiece to Back for 2 (2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2) in. [5 (6.5, 7.5, 9) cm]
in. Leave the next 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. [7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm] open on each side for legs, then seam
remaining length of sides.

The post Knitted City Stripes Dog Sweater Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Diamond Lattice Blanket

Here is “The Best Free Diamond Lattice Blanket Pattern”

MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 56″ [142 cm] wide
x 60″ [152.5 cm] long.

INSTRUCTIONS
Notes:
• Right side of project is facing
at all times.
• ‘Working yarn’ is held behind
stitches throughout work.
Count 68 loops for foundation
row.
1st row: Working from right
to left, pull the 69th loop (from
‘working yarn’) up through 68th
loop (last loop of foundation
row) from behind to create a knit
stitch.

Pull next loop from working yarn up through next loop of
foundation row. *Cross second loop of foundation row in front
of first loop of foundation row (to the right). Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind next loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind
next loop. Cross next loop of foundation row in front of 2nd
loop of foundation row (to the left). Pull next loop from working
yarn up from behind through next loop. Pull next loop from working
yarn up from behind through next loop. (Pull next loop from
working yarn up through next loop of foundation row) twice.
Repeat from * to end of row. Do not turn work. 68 stitches in row.
2nd row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on
previous row. *Cross 2nd stitch over next stitch (to the left). Pull
loop from working yarn up from behind through 2nd stitch. Pull
next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next
loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross
next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Rep from * to last stitch.
Pull loop from working yarn up from behind next loop. Do not turn.

3th row: Working from right to left, cross 2nd stitch of previous row over 1st stitch (to the right). Pull loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Rep from * to last 6 stitches. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Do not turn.

4th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on previous row. *Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop, Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next stitch. Do not turn.

5th row: Working from right to left, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) twice. *Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Rep from * to end of row. Do not turn.

6th row: Working from left to right, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) three times. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of 1st stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Rep from * to last 5 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of 1st stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) three times. Do not turn.

7th row: Working from right to left, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) twice. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Rep from * to end of row. Do not turn.

8th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on previous row. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop. Do not turn.

9th row: Working from right to left, cross 1st stitch over 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. *Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Rep from * to last 6 stitches. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Do not turn.

10th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross 2nd stitch over next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross next stitch over 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last 5 stitches. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch. Do not turn. Repeat 5th to 10th rows for pattern. Work in pattern until Blanket measures approximately 60″ [152.5 cm], ending on a 5th row.

Bind off row: Working in same direction as last row, pull 2nd stitch through 1st stitch. Pull 3rd stitch through 2nd stitch. Pull 4th stitch through 3rd stitch. Continue in this manner to end of row. Cut thread at base of loop (thread used to create the loop) to create a yarn ‘tail’. Tie to secure and weave in end.

The post The Best Free Diamond Lattice Blanket Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Simple Cable Scarf.

What You Need

• Yarn : 2 ball yarn in DK/light worsted
• Knitting Needle : 4mm (US 6) Single Pointed needles, cable needle
• Gauge : 10 cm : 20 sts in stockinette

Abbreviation

• cast on
• K : knit
• P : purl
• Sts : stitches
• Bind Off
• LC : Left cable
• 3/3LC : slip 3 sts into cable needle, put it in front of work, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 sts from cable needle.

Suggestion : Better be blocked after finished.

Pattern

Cast On : 28 sts

Row 1, 3, 7, 9 : [K1, P1] 4x, K1, P2, K6, P2, [K1, P1] 4x, K1

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 : K1, P8], K2, P6, K2, [P8, K1]

Row 5 (RS) : [K1, P1] 4x, K1, P2, 3/3LC, P2, [K1, P1] 4x, K1

Repeat 10 row above until you reach the length you want

Bind Off.

Don’t forget to block your scarf so the beauty of the stitches will be shown. If you using steam blocking with steam iron or damp towel/pillow case (like me), don’t forget to put the wrong side up and hide the right side when you pin it into mat.

Additional Note :

You can change LC with RC (right cable). Or maybe playing with simple intarsia for the cable part.

The post Easiest Way To Make Simple Cable Scarf appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Here step by step making “Autumn Afternoons Cardigan Wool Pattern”

You might seen this pattern is “Intermediate Skill Level” but don’t worry with Cocador’s step by step pattern article you will get through that.

SIZE: Small, Large, 2X
Finished Bust 50 (56, 62) in. [127 (142.25, 157.5) cm]

Small Note for Knitting Lovers:

Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses.When only one number is given, it
applies to all sizes. Follow the instructions and let it be perfect and succesful end for you.

WHAT YOU NEED :
• 640-402 Qualified Brand Wool-Ease Thick & Quick: Wheat
8 (9,11) Skeins
• Qualified Brand Knitting Needles – Size 17 [13 mm]
• Qualified Brand Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE:
8 sts + 10.5 rows = 4 in. [10 cm] in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
M1 (make 1) An increase worked by lifting horizontal thread lying between needles and placing it onto left
needle. Knit this new stitch through the back loop.

CARDIGAN

BACK
Cast on 50 (56, 62) sts. Work in St st (k on RS, p on WS) until piece measures 15
(16, 18) in. [38 (40.75, 45.75) cm] from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Armhole
Bind off 2 (3, 5) sts at beg of next 2 rows — 46 (50, 52) sts.
Next Row (Dec Row): K2tog, k to last 2 sts, k2tog — 44 (48, 50) sts.
Next Row: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 0 (2, 3) more times — 44 sts.
Work even until piece measures 24 (25, 27) in. [61 (63.5, 68.5) cm] from beg.
Bind off 6 sts at beg of next 6 rows. Bind off remaining 8 sts.

RIGHT FRONT
Cast on 25 (29, 33) sts.
Row 1 (RS): K 4 (for facing), sl 1, k to end of row.
Row 2: Purl.
Rep last 2 rows until piece measures 13 (14, 15) in. [33 (35.5, 38) cm] from beg,
end with a WS row.

Shape Collar

Next Row (RS): K 4, m1, place marker, sl 1, place marker, m1, k to end of row —
27 (31, 35) sts.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: K to marker, sl marker, sl 1, sl marker, k to end of row.
Next Row: Purl.
Next Row: K to 1 st before marker, m1, sl marker, sl 1, sl marker, m1, k to end of row — 29 (33, 37) sts. Rep last 4 rows 6 (7, 8) more times and, AT THE SAME
TIME, when piece measures 15 (16, 18) in. [38 (40.75, 45.75) cm] from beg, end
with a RS row.

Shape Armhole

Next Row (WS): Bind off 2 (3, 5) sts at beg of next WS row. Dec 1 st at beg of
every WS row 1 (3, 4) times. Continue collar shaping and then work even until
piece measures 24 (25, 27) in. [61 (63.5, 68.5) cm] from beg, end with a RS row.
Bind off 6 sts at beg of next 2 WS rows. Work even for 3 in. [7.5 cm]. Transfer
remaining sts to spare needle.

LEFT FRONT

Work as for Right Front, reversing all shaping.

SLEEVES

Cast on 20 (22, 24) sts. Beg with a WS row, work in St st for 5 rows.
Row 6 (Inc Row): K1, inc 1, k to last 2 sts, inc 1, k 1 — 22 (24, 26) sts. Rep last
6 rows 4 (5, 6) times more — 30 (34, 38) sts. Work even until piece measures
15½ (16, 16½) in. [39.5 (40.75, 42) cm] from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Cap

Bind off 4 (4, 5) sts at beg of next 6 rows. Bind off remaining 6 (10, 8) sts.

FINISHING

Sew shoulder seams. Sew sts from spare needles tog for collar. Sew in Sleeves. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Fold front/collar
facing to WS along sl st line and sew in place. Weave in ends.

The post The Easiest Autumn Afternoons Cardigan Wool Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Fingerless Gloves

Here step by step making “Fingerless Gloves”

Needles

A set of 4 mm (US6) double-pointed knitting needles for the ribbing.
A set of 5 mm (US8) double-pointed knitting needles for the body of gloves.

Yarn

49% Wool – 51% Acrylic, Color 221
(1 ball – 100 gr, 240 m, 262yds)
For the gloves it is used approximately 50 gr. or 131 yds.

Gauge
19 sts/25 rows = 10 cm (4 inches) with large needles in stocking st.

Size
Adult. One size.
Finished Size
Length: 21 cm (8.26 inches).
Circumference (unstretched): 17 cm (6.69 inches).

Abbreviations
K – knit
P – purl
st(s) – stitch(es)
CO – cast on
k2tog – knit 2 stitches together
yo – yarn over
ssk – Slip one stitch knit-wise, then slip the next. Insert left needle into the front loops of the slipped stitches and knit them together from this position (through the back loops).
m1 – make one (increase 1 stitch)

Pattern
Both gloves:
CO – 40 sts.
Place marker and join for working in the round using smaller size needles. Ribbing round: [K1, P1] around. Work Ribbing round until measures 8cm (3.15 inches) from cast on edge or total ribbing rounds 22, decrease 6 sts evenly around last round (34 sts total in round).

Left glove:
Thumb gusset:
Round 1: P1, k4, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k4, p1, k13, m1, k1, m1, k1.
Round 2: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k17.
Round 3: P1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k17.
Round 4: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k13, m1, k3, m1, k1.
Round 5: P1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k19.
Round 6: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k19.
Round 7: P1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k13, m1, k5, m1, k1.
Round 8: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k21.
Round 9: P1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k21.
Round 10: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k13, m1, k7, m1, k1.
Round 11: P1, k4, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k4, p1, k23.
Round 12: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k23.
Round 13: P1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k13, m1, k9, m1, k1.
Round 14: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k25.
Round 15: P1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k25.
Round 16: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k13, m1, k11, m1, k1.
Round 17: P1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k27.
Round 18: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k27.
Round 19: P1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k27.
Round 20: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, к13, slip the next 13 stitches on stitch holder for the thumb knitting, cast on 1 stitch to close the gap, к1.
Round 21: P1, k4, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k4, p1, k15.
Round 22: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 23: P1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k15.
Round 24: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 25: P1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k15.
Round 26: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 27: P1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k15.
Round 28: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 29: P1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k15.
Round 30- 35: *K1, p1, repeat from* to the end of round (34 stitches total in round).
Bind off.
Note: Stitches in the description colored in red correspond to the given chart below.

Thumb:

Move the 13 sts back on your needles and knit, picking up 1 sts to close the gap.
Next round: *K1, p1, repeat from* to the end of round (14 stitches total in round). Make 4 rounds more like the previous round. Bind off. Similarly, do the thumb of the right glove.

Right glove:

Thumb gusset:
Round 1: P1, k4, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k4, p1, k1, m1, k1, m1, k13.
Round 2: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k17.
Round 3: P1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k17.
Round 4: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k1, m1, k3, m1, k13.
Round 5: P1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k19.
Round 6: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k19.
Round 7: P1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k1, m1, k5, m1, k13.
Round 8: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k21.
Round 9: P1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k21.
Round 10: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k1, m1, k7, m1, k13.
Round 11: P1, k4, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k4, p1, k23.
Round 12: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k23.
Round 13: P1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k1, m1, k9, m1, k13.
Round 14: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k25.
Round 15: P1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k25.
Round 16: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k1, m1, k11, m1, k13.
Round 17: P1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k27.
Round 18: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k27.
Round 19: P1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k27.
Round 20: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, к1, slip the next 13 stitches on stitch holder for the thumb knitting, cast on 1 stitch to close the gap, к13.

Round 21: P1, k4, k2tog, k2, yo, p1, yo, k2, ssk, k4, p1, k15.
Round 22: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 23: P1, k3, k2tog, k2, yo, k1, p1, k1, yo, k2, ssk, k3, p1, k15.
Round 24: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 25: P1, k2, k2tog, k2, yo, k2, p1, k2, yo, k2, ssk, k2, p1, k15.
Round 26: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 27: P1, k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k3, p1, k3, yo, k2, ssk, k1, p1, k15.
Round 28: P1, k8, p1, k8, p1, k15.
Round 29: P1, k2tog, k2, yo, k4, p1, k4, yo, k2, ssk, p1, k15.
Round 30- 35: *K1, p1, repeat from* to the end of round (34 stitches total in round).
Bind off.

The post The Best Free Fingerless Gloves Knitting Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Knitted Brussel Sprout.

Free Knitted Brussel Sprout from Cocador

NOTES

Introduction: Christmas dinner just isn’t the same
without Brussels sprouts. Love them or hate them,
you can also knit them! These make fun place
setting decorations for your dinner table, or hang
them from your tree.

Work flat: Each sprout is knitted flat (back and
forth) on a pair of single pointed knitting needles,
not in the round.

Casting on: Use the long tail cast on.

Pull through to cast off: Cut the yarn leaving at
least a 30cm tail. Thread the tail onto a darning
needle, sew through the sts on the knitting needle,
pull the sts off the knitting needle onto the yarn,
gather together tightly and secure.

Seaming: Use mattress stitch for seaming toys.

One size: 5cm wide.

Tension: 24 sts x 30 rows for a 10cm x 10cm square
in stockinette stitch on 3.5mm needles. Don’t worry
about tension for this pattern, it is not critical.

YARN

– Each sprout is made from DK weight yarn (double
knitting/light worsted weight/8 ply); a few
grammes in a Green shade.
– The recommended yarn is Hayfield Bonus DK, a
100% acrylic DK weight yarn, in shade “Grass”.
NEEDLES & NOTIONS
– A pair of 3.5mm (US4) single pointed needles,
minimum length 20cm
– A darning or tapestry needle for seaming
– Two 10mm adhesive “googly” wobbly eyes
– A handful of toy filling or cotton wool ball to stuff

KNITTING PATTERN

SPROUT

Make 1. Start at the bottom. Cast on 7 sts in green
on 3.5mm needles.
Row 1 and all following WS rows: Purl
Row 2 (RS): [Kfb] 6 times, k1 (13 sts)
Row 4: [K1, kfb] 6 times, k1 (19 sts)
Row 6: [K2, kfb] 6 times, k1 (25 sts)
Row 8: Knit (25 sts)
Row 10: [K2, k2tog] 6 times, k1 (19 sts)
Row 12: [K1, k2tog] 6 times, k1 (13 sts)
Row 14: [K2tog] 6 times, k1 (7 sts)
Pull through to cast off.
Sew the side edges together, adding stuffing as you sew.

Gather the cast on sts together at the bottom.

Stick two eyes onto the top (cast off end) of the sprout.

OUTER LEAVES

Make 3. Start at the bottom. Cast on 5 sts in green
on 3.5mm needles.
Row 1 (RS): Slip1, p1, k1, p2
Row 2 (WS): Slip1, kfb, p1, kfb, k1 (7 sts)
Row 3: Slip1, p2, k1, p3
Row 4: Slip1, kfb, kfb, p1, kfb, kfb, k1 (11 sts)
Row 5: Slip1, p4, k1, p5
Row 6: Slip1, [kfb] 4 times, p1, [kfb] 4 times, k1
(19 sts)
Row 7: Slip1, p8, k1, p9
Row 8: Slip1, k8, p1, k9
Row 9: Slip1, p8, k1, p9
Row 10: Slip1, [ssk] 4 times, p1, [k2tog] 4 times, k1
(11 sts)

Row 11: Slip1, p4, k1, p5
Row 12: Slip1, ssk, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (7 sts)
Row 13: Slip1, p2, k1, p3
Row 14: Slip1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1 (5 sts)
Pull through to cast off.
Give each leaf a blast of steam from a steam iron to block.

Sew the ends of the cast on edge of each leaf together (see photo) Note that the purl side of the leaves are
the RS and face outwards. Sit the bottom of the sprout in the middle of the W of the leaves, fold the leaves up and sew in place so they overlap around the sides of the sprout.

The post Sweetest Knitted Brussel Sprout Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Small Knitted Pumpkin

Free Small Knitted Pumpkin Pattern Using Straight Needles

Pattern Notes

Tension Gauge – 26 Sts x 36 Rows = 4 x 4 inches (10 x 10 cm)
Finished Pumpkin size – 9cm round by 4cm high. (3.5 x 1.5 inches)
Pattern is suitable for a beginner.
Pumpkin is worked up flat.

Row 1 and ALL ODD rows – p Row 2 – (k1, m1) 10 times, k1. (21)

Row 4 – (k2, m1) 10 times, k1. (31)

Row 6 – (k3, m1) 10 times, k1. (41)

Row 8 – (k4, m1) 10 times, k1. (51)

Row 10 – (k5, m1) 10 times, k1. (61)

Row 12 – (k6, m1) 10 times, k1. (71)

Rows 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24 – k. (71)

Row 26 – (k5, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (61)

Row 28 – (k4, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (51)

Row 30 – (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (41)

Row 32 – (k2, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (31)

Row 34 – (k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (21)

Row 36 – (k2tog) 10 times, k1. (11)

Leaving a long yarn tail, weave the tail through the last 11 loops on the needle and pull to close. Sew up the side seam and stuff the pumpkin. Weave the yarn tail through the 11 cast on stitches and pull to close the opening.

Take the yarn up the side of the pumpkin and down through the centre from the top to the bottom, pull tight and repeat around the pumpkin another 5 times, making 6 wedges. Secure the end.

Stalk – using Caramel Cast on 7 sts

Row 2 – p

Cast off, and sew onto the top centre of your pumpkin.

The post Free Small Knitted Pumpkin Pattern For Hallowen Vibe appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to opposites attract hats.

• Worked in the round, these hats begin with a ribbed border and then a simple 6 stitch repeat fairisle pattern (both charted and written instructions are included) is worked into the design.
• A great pattern for beginner fairisle knitters, the colour work finishes several rows before the decreases start, meaning there’s no need to worry about having to decrease and knit fairisle at the same time!
• Opposites attract hats can be knit in adult, child, toddler and baby sizes and two 100g skeins of super chunky yarn should be enough to make a set of 2 of any combination of these sizes.

WHAT YOU NEED

Sizes and Tension:

This pattern includes instructions for hats in adult (54cm around), child (48cm around), toddler (42cm around) and baby (36cm around) sizes.
Gauge: 11 stitches and 14 rows to 10cm (4in) over stockinette stitch using 9mm needles.

Information & Equipment

Materials:

• 2 x 100g skeins (96m/105yards each) of super bulky yarn in contrasting colours (e.g Drops Andes). (makes 2 opposite hats of any size combination + pompoms)
• Set of four 9mm (US size 13) DPNs (double pointed needles)
• 1 stitch marker.

Abbreviations:

• K : knit one
• P : purl one
• K2tog : knit two together

First hat:

Sizes are written in the order: Adult (child, toddler, baby)
Using main colour cast on 54 (48, 42, 36) stitches, spread over 3 DPNs (decreases are easier if there is a multiple of 6 stitches on each needle, so either 12 or 18 stitches on each needle), and join in the round being careful not to twist.
Place stitch marker at the beginning of the round.
Work in k1p1 ribbing for 6 (6, 3, 3) rounds.
Next round: knit all stitches.

In the next 6 rounds, work the fairisle chart or the written instructions. (9 (8, 7, 6) repeats):
Chart should be read and worked from right to left.
(stitches in main colour are not highlighted (grey on chart), stitches in pattern colour are highlighted in green, and are shown in green on the chart). Round 1: *k1, k1, k2, k1, k1; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times. Round 2: *k3, k3; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times. Round 3: * k1, k1, k4; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times. Round 4: *k4, k1, k1; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times. Round 5: *k3, k3; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times. Round 6: *k1, k1, k2, k1, k1; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times.
Using main colour, knit all stitches for 9 (5, 4, 1) rounds.
*(Add a couple of extra knit rounds here for a slouchier hat)*

Decreases:

Round 1: *k4, k2tog; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times
Round 2 (and every even round): knit all stitches.
Round 3: *k3, k2tog; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times

Round 5: *k2, k2tog; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times
Round 7: *k1, k2tog; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times
Round 9: *k2tog; repeat from * 9 (8, 7, 6) times
Round 10: knit all stitches.

Finishing:

Cut yarn leaving a long tail and thread through the remaining stiches. Pull tight and tie to secure.
Weave in ends.

Second hat:

Follow pattern as for first hat, but using the pattern colour as the main colour, and the main colour as the pattern colour.

Pompoms!

My advice would be to make both hats before making pompoms to avoid using up too much yarn and not having enough for the second hat. This is especially important if you’re making 2 adult sized hats.
Using the yarn left over from both hats, make 2 pompoms, and attach one to each hat.

The post The Best Opposites Attract Hats Free Tutorial appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Chunky Twist Headbands

Here step by step making “Chunky Twist Headbands”

YOU WILL NEED:

• 1 x 100g ball Rowan Big Wool or similar super chunky yarn.
• 1 pair 10mm knitting needles
• Gauge: using 10mm needles and working in K1, P1 rib

Cast on 15 stitches using 10mm needles

Knit 1st row, then work 46cm in K1 P1 rib (or length that fits comfortably around your head),cast off knitwise.

Fold band in half placing end of top half over centrestitch (7th stitch) of the bottom half.

Fold left side under the bottom

Fold right side over the top

Stitch in place.

Keep the same as flat as possible. Once all ends are sewn in, turn the band inside out.

The post How To Make Chunky Twist Headbands appeared first on Cocador.