Tequila’s next U.S. invasion came during the Second World War. U.S. distilleries had converted to wartime production, making military supplies, leading to a dearth of American spirits. Further, imports from Europe dropped, thanks to production problems in Europe and restrictions on European imports. By 1948, however, the liquor industries in Europe and the U.S. had recovered, leading to another slump in tequila’s fortunes.
Tequila finally conquered the U.S. market in the 1980s, during an era of economic growth in the United States that encouraged a surge of American tourists to visit Mexico, bringing back a love for Mexico’s native spirit. Premium and ultra-premium brands began to hit the U.S. market, and the tequila category has been healthy ever since.
“I think people are really committed to making hudutu a household name,” says López Oro, referring to the dish and the urgency many Garinagu feel about preserving their history, in part, through their
