As the Cocador content team, we will continue to provide you with useful amigurumi articles. In our previous post, we looked at the origins of amigurumi, its popularity, the distinctions between it and crochet, and simple amigurumi patterns for beginners. You may find it here if you want to have a look. We present you with 2 easy and lovely crochet amigurumi animal patterns for beginners.

2 Easy Crochet Animals Amigurumi Patterns for Beginners

You can find tons of amigurumi patterns online. Especially animal amigurumi are the most popular. All you need to do is type two words like amigurumi elephant, cat amigurumi, amigurumi cow, dinosaur amigurumi, bumblebee amigurumi and so on. In this article we present various amigurumi patterns.

1 – Baby Brussel Sprouts

A Christmas feast without Brussels sprouts just isn’t the same. You may knit them whether you love them or loathe them. You can hang these from your tree or use them as amusing places setting decorations for your dinner table. Instead of knitting in the round, each sprout is knit flat (back and forth) on a pair of single pointed knitting needles. Cast on with a long tail. Leave at least a 30 cm tail after cutting the yarn. Pull the stitches off the knitting needle and onto the yarn, gather them tightly, and secure with a knot. Thread the tail onto a darning needle.

Seaming: Use mattress stitch for seaming toys.

One size: 5cm wide.

Tension: 24 sts x 30 rows for a 10cm x 10cm square

in stockinette stitch on 3.5mm needles. Don’t worry

about tension for this pattern, it is not critical.

SPROUT

• Make 1. Start at the bottom. Cast on 7 sts in green on 3.5mm needles.
• Row 1 and all following WS rows: Purl
• Row 2 (RS): [Kfb] 6 times, k1 (13 sts)
• Row 4: [K1, kfb] 6 times, k1 (19 sts)
• Row 6: [K2, kfb] 6 times, k1 (25 sts)
• Row 8: Knit (25 sts)
• Row 10: [K2, k2tog] 6 times, k1 (19 sts)
• Row 12: [K1, k2tog] 6 times, k1 (13 sts)
• Row 14: [K2tog] 6 times, k1 (7 sts)
• Pull through to cast off.
• Add stuffing as you sew the side edges together.
• At the bottom, group the cast-on stitches.
• Attach two eyes to the sprout’s top (cast-off end).

OUTER LEAVES

• Make 3. Start at the bottom. Cast on 5 sts in green on 3.5mm needles.
• Row 1 (RS): Slip1, p1, k1, p2
• Row 2 (WS): Slip1, kfb, p1, kfb, k1 (7 sts)
• Row 3: Slip1, p2, k1, p3
• Row 4: Slip1, kfb, kfb, p1, kfb, kfb, k1 (11 sts)
• Row 5: Slip1, p4, k1, p5
• Row 6: Slip1, [kfb] 4 times, p1, [kfb] 4 times, k1

(19 sts)

• Row 7: Slip1, p8, k1, p9
• Row 8: Slip1, k8, p1, k9
• Row 9: Slip1, p8, k1, p9
• Row 10: Slip1, [ssk] 4 times, p1, [k2tog] 4 times, k1

(11 sts)

• Row 11: Slip1, p4, k1, p5
• Row 12: Slip1, ssk, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (7 sts)
• Row 13: Slip1, p2, k1, p3
• Row 14: Slip1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1 (5 sts)
• Pull through to cast off.
  

Baby Brussel Sprouts Amigurumi

If you liked this pattern feel free to share this post on Pinterest!

2 – Little Pumpkins For Halloween or Winter Vibe

26 Stitches x 36 Rows = 4 × 4 inches for the tension gauge (10 x 10 cm)

Finished Size of pumpkin: 9 cm in diameter and 4 cm high. (2.75 x 3.5 cm)

A beginner can use the pattern.

Pumpkin is flat worked up.

• Row 1 and ALL ODD rows – p Row 2 – (k1, m1) 10 times, k1. (21)
• Row 4 – (k2, m1) 10 times, k1. (31)
• Row 6 – (k3, m1) 10 times, k1. (41)
• Row 8 – (k4, m1) 10 times, k1. (51)
• Row 10 – (k5, m1) 10 times, k1. (61)
• Row 12 – (k6, m1) 10 times, k1. (71)
• Rows 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24 – k. (71)
• Row 26 – (k5, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (61)
• Row 28 – (k4, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (51)
• Row 30 – (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (41)
• Row 32 – (k2, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (31)
• Row 34 – (k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (21)
• Row 36 – (k2tog) 10 times, k1. (11)
  

Leave a lengthy tail of yarn, wind it through the needle’s final 11 loops, and pull to secure. After stuffing the pumpkin, sew up the side seam. Close the gap by pulling the yarn tail through the 11 cast-on stitches.

Pull tight and repeat around the pumpkin an additional five times to create six wedges by taking the yarn up the side and down through the center from top to bottom. Protect the end.

Stalk – using Caramel Cast on 7 sts

Row 2 – p

Cast off, and sew onto the top center of your pumpkin.

How to Make Amigurumi Little Pumpkins For Halloween or Winter Vibe

If you liked this pattern feel free to share this post on Pinterest!

The post Easy Crochet Animals Amigurumi Patterns for Beginners appeared first on Cocador.

Cocador provides access to a variety of publications pertaining to your lifestyle, ranging from skin care to fashion, hair care to knitting designs. Today we’ll look at amigurumi in further detail. What is amigurumi? What is difference between crochet and amigurumi? and How to learn amigurumi? You will find the best advice about amigurumi for beginners in this article.

What is Amigurumi?

The Japanese term “amigurumi” comes from combination of the words “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). Manufacturing stuffed animals in any size, but they are usually small and fashioned with thin yarns. Whether you are a novice or a pro, let’s explore why Amigurumi has become so popular. You’ll see how simple amigurumi may be for novices.

Why is amigurumi so popular?

Amigurumi is a happy, cute, and cuddly universe. The sculptures range from realistic to magical, with lazy unicorns, shy mermaids, and forest spirits to inquisitive pups, honey-loving bears, and shining princesses. These fictitious, vulnerable animals surprise and fill followers with joy. A quarter million people are members of an amigurumi Facebook group. The group offers 4,000 lovely animal patterns as well as a monthly gathering when individuals stitch on the same pattern while exchanging questions, suggestions, and images. 

What is the difference between crochet and amigurumi?

If you’re learning about amigurumi or the craft of crocheting, you’ve probably scratched your head, wondering how the two differ. Because you use the same yarn to make both of them, they appear to be similar at first glance. The completed product looks fairly similar as well. Up close, it is impossible to see the difference between the two.

The main contrast is that amigurumi isn’t just for crocheters. Aside from that, amigurumi is simply the art of making souvenirs and collectibles like as beautiful animals, and other fantastical creatures. So the amigurumi technique to make the vast majority of hand knitted/crocheted dolls and toys available in craft stores or online.

Just a quick break for Amigurumi ; Have you check our previous articles about hair care in winter and reasons for hair loss in Cocador

What Supplies Do You Need for Amigurumi?

You want to start amigurumi, but you don’t know where to start and most importantly what kind of materials you would need. We will satisfy your curiosity in this topic.

The main contrast is that amigurumi isn’t just for crocheters. Amigurumi can be done with either crochet or knitting. Aside from that, amigurumi is simply the art of making souvenirs and collectibles like as beautiful animals, animals, and other fantastical creatures. The amigurumi technique is used to make the vast majority of hand knitted/crocheted dolls and toys available in craft stores or online.

How to learn Amigurumi?

Everything you need to know about amigurumi may be accessed for free online. As I went along, then I practiced by following amigurumi patterns and YouTube instructions. Therefore working through a pattern—whether written or video—and learning each stitch and technique as you go is the most effective way to learn how to crochet amigurumi. You can find extensive, in addition different free resources about amigurumi for beginners.

10 Easy Amigurumi Patterns

The post What is Amigurumi? Detailed Guide for Beginners appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

As you remember we shared “Teddy Bear Pattern” with you. Now time to reform Ted’s wardrobe

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with “Knitted Ted Bear’s Wardrobe”

First Elegant Piece of Ted’s Wardrobe

Ted Bear Jacket

Finished size
Completed jacket measures approx. 8 cm (31/4 in) long and 15.5 cm (6 in) wide from left sleeve cuff to right sleeve cuff.
Completed jumper measures approx. 10 cm (4 in) long and approx. 15.5 cm (6 in) wide from sleeve edge to sleeve edge.

Yarn
Rowan Alpaca Soft DK 1 x 50g
Jacket shown in Green Teal 213.
Jumper shown in Autumn Gold 220.

Needles
Jacket only: 1 pair 3.25mm (no.10) (US 3) needles.
Jacket & Jumper: 1 pair 4mm (no.8) (US 6) needles.

Extras
Jacket:
2 small buttons.
2 x safety pins.
2 x stitch holders or large safety pins.

Jumper:
2 x stitch holders or large safety pins.

Tension
22 sts and 30 rows to 10 cm measured over st st using 4mm (US 6) needles.

Pattern Note
The neckline on Ted’s jumper is quite snug so you might find it easier to insert his head into the jumper before fully stuffing.
Omit buttons & buttonholes from jacket if knitting for a baby or small child.

Jacket
Using 3.25mm (US 3) needles cast on 14 sts.

RIGHT FRONT

Work 4 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Row 5 K2, cast off 2 sts (3 sts on right needle), K to end. 12 sts.
Row 6 K to buttonhole gap, cast on 2 sts, K to end.
14 sts.
Work 2 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Change to 4mm needles.
Row 9 Knit.
Row 10 P to last 6 sts, K6.
Row 11 & 12 As rows 9 & 10.
Row 13 K2, cast off 2 (3 sts on right needle), K to end.12 sts.
Row 14 P to last 4 sts, K2, cast on 2, K2. 14 sts.
Row 15 Knit.
Row 16 Cast on 7 sts, K2, P to last 6 sts, K6. 21 sts.
Row 17 K6, SSK, K to end. 20 sts.
Row 18 K2, P to last 6 sts, K6.
Row 19 K1, SSK, K to end. 19 sts.
Row 20 K2, P to last 5 sts, K5.
Row 21 K5, SSK, K to end. 18 sts.
Row 22 As row 20.
Row 23 K1, SSK, K to end. 17 sts.
Row 24 K2, P to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 25 K1, SSK, K to end. 16 sts.
Row 26 K2, P to last 3 sts, K3.
Slip these 16 sts onto a holder for right back.

LEFT FRONT

Using 3.25mm (US 3) needles cast on 14 sts.

Work 8 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Change to 4mm needles.
Next row Knit.
Next row K6, P to end.
These 2 rows form main patt.
Cont in main patt for 6 rows.
Next row Cast on 7 sts, K to last 8 sts, K2tog, K to end.
20 sts.
Next row K6, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 19 sts
Next row K5, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 7 sts, K2tog, K to end. 18 sts
Next row K5, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 17 sts
Next row K4, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 16 sts
Next row K3, P to last 2 sts, K2.

BACK

Next row K to last 3 sts, slip the 3 g st button band stitches onto a safety pin, cast on 9 sts, slip 3 g st button band stitches from holder onto a 2nd safety pin, K rem 13 sts from holder.
35 sts on needle.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, P to last 2 sts, K2. 28 sts.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, K to end. 21 sts.
Beg with P row, work 7 rows in st st ending on a WS row.
Change to 3.25mm (US 3) needles.
Work 8 rows in g st.
Cast off.

NECKBAND

Using 4mm (US 6) needles join yarn to 3 sts from safety pin on right button band.
Work 10 rows in g st.
Cast off.
Rep as set, using 3 sts from safety pin on left button band.

Making up

Join cast off edges of neckband at centre back and sew neckband in position evenly along neck edge.
Using mattress st, join sleeve and side seams
Sew buttons in position to match button holes.

Ladies Give It Up For The Best Cozy Piece of Ted‘s Wardrobe

Ted Bear Jumper

Pocket lining
Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 13 sts.
Beg with K row, work 11 rows in st st ending on a RS row.
Break off yarn and leave these 13 sts on a holder.

Jumper
Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 21 sts.

FRONT

Row 1 K1, *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Beg with K row, work 8 rows in st st.
Next row K5, P1, (K1, P1) 5 times, K to end.
Next row P5, K1, (P1, K1) 5 times, P to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Next row K5, cast off next 11 sts in rib, K to end.
Next row P4, with RS of pocket lining facing WS of front section – purl the next st together with the first st of pocket lining, P to last pocket lining st, P this st together with next st on left needle tbl, P to end.
Next row Knit.

Next row Cast on 7 sts, K2, P to end. 28 sts.
Next row Cast on 7 sts, K to end. 35 sts.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Break off yarn and slip first 11 sts onto a holder for left side, join yarn and knit centre 13 sts, slip next 11 sts onto a holder for right side.
Work 2 rows in g st across centre 13 sts.
Cast off.

BACK

Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 13 sts.
Work 2 rows in g st.
Break off yarn.
Next row With WS facing, (K2, P9) from right side
holder, P13 from needle, (P9, K2) from left
side holder. 35 sts.
Next row Knit.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, P to last 2 sts, K2. 28 sts.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, K to end. 21 sts.
Beg with P row, work 15 rows in st st.
Row 1 K1, *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Cast off in rib.

Making up

Sew pocket lining in place on reverse of jumper
Join neckband edges
Join sleeve and side seams using mattress st.

The post Time To Reform Knitted Ted Bear’s Wardrobe with Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Amigurumi Deers

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work
• SSK (SLIP, SLIP, KNIT) : Slip a stitch (as if to knit it) to
  the right-hand needle, slip a second stitch in the same
  way, slip both stitches together back to the left-hand
  needle and knit together through the back loops.

M a t e r i a l s

• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a mid brown colour: Yarn A
• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a beige colour: Yarn B
• 4ply/fingering weight yarn (approx. 4m/4yds) in a
dark brown colour for the antlers
• Scraps of 4ply black yarn 4ply for the eyes, nose
and facial features
• Toy stuffing
• A tiny button

N o t i o n s

• Knitting needles: A pair each of straight 3mm (US 2.5)
and 2.75mm (US 2) and two 2.75mm (US 2) DPNs
(double pointed needles)
• Tapestry needle

F i n i s h e d  s i z e

Finished deer is approx 23cm (9 inches) from the tip
of the toes to the top of the head
G a u g e:
Gauge for deer: 6 stitches x 9 rows to 1 inch
Gauge for clothes: 7 stitches x 10 rows to 1 inch

Th e  p a t t e r n  i n s t r u c t i o n s

The deer is made using exactly the same instructions as written in either of my fox patterns, there are however
some differences in the yarn used and in construction:
• For Yarn A use a mid brown colour (instead of a rust) and for Yarn B a beige colour (instead of cream).
Here I have used Cascade 220 worsted yarn in Praline 9695 (Yarn A) and Beige 8021 (Yarn B)
• The ears are joined to the sides of the head, rather than the top as in the fox, see notes on Ears below,
• Once the ears are joined, there are optional antlers to make, see antler instructions.
• After joining the ears and antlers, speckles are embroidered onto the top of the head using duplicate
stitch. Then the eyes, nose and mouth are added (as detailed in the fox pattern).

H e a d:
Knit, finish and stuff the head exactly as detailed, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and a beige yarn (instead of cream) for Yarn B.

E a r s: (make two the same):
Make the ears exactly as detailed on either Page 5 or Page 16 of the fox pattern, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and for Yarn B a beige yarn (instead of cream). Don’t use black yarn to tip the
outer ear, instead work it entirely in Yarn A.

Once the ears are finished and sewn together
use the cast on tail to sew together the front edges at the base of each ear.

Join the ears to the sides of the head, aligning them 4 rows back from the inner edge of the first row of lighter
colour on the cheek. Use the two Yarn A tails from the ear to join both the top side and bottom side of
the ear. Once the ear is fully attached, tie both yarn tails together at the back of the ear and sew them
through the head and out of the open seam underneath. Join the second ear in the same way then tie
all 4 ends from the ears together and trim excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.
If you would like your deer to have antlers, then now is the time to make and attach them.

A n t l e r s: (make a mirrored pair *):

Starting at the thick base of the antler and finishing at the top points. Use dark brown 4 ply weight yarn and
2.75mm needles to cable cast on 8 stitches, leaving an 8 inch tail for attaching it to the head with later.

row 1: (wrong side) Purl
rows 2-5: Beginning with a Knit row and ending with a Purl row, work 4 rows of stocking stitch
row 6: Change to a 2.75mm DPN (double pointed needle), K2tog, K2 (3 stitches)
leave the remaining 4 stitches un-worked (transfer them to a stitch holder if you prefer). Continue on
the 3 stitches only and with 2 DPNs work an i-cord like so:
row 7: Now the 3 stitches are on the right-hand needle and the working yarn is coming from the left-most
stitch. Slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other and without turning the needle,
transfer it to your left hand. Bring the working yarn across the back of the work and Knit the 3 stitches
again, you will need to keep a tight tension. The only difference from a normal knitted row is that the
yarn is coming from the last stitch and across the back of the work instead of from the first stitch
rows 8-12: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 five more times.
Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide
them off the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down
through the centre of the antler point and leave it hanging for now. Continue on the remaining 4 stitches:
row 6b: Leaving an 8 inch tail for seaming with later, re-join the yarn and use 2 x DPNs: K2, SSK (3 stitches)
rows 7b-9b: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 above three times.

Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide them off
the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down through the
centre of the antler point and, without deforming the antler points by pulling too hard, tie it to the short cast off
tail from the first point to secure both ends and cut short so that they will be hidden inside the finished antler.

Thread the tapestry needle with the long cast on tail from the second antler point and use it to seam the edges
of the thick lower stem of the antler using mattress stitch. When you reach the cast on edge tie both tail ends
together to secure them. That is the first antler finished.

* Make a second antler in the same way, but reverse the height of the two antler points (make the first i-cord
point 4 rows tall and the second one 7 rows tall), so that the finished pair of antlers mirror each other.
I think the antlers look best with the taller points innermost and the shorter points on the outside, but please
decide for yourself what looks best with the pair of antlers you have made – ideally the seam should run up the
back of each antler.

Next you are aiming to join the antlers so that the base of each is sewn to the top of the head in a small circle.
Thread the tapestry needle with the longest tail from one antler and sew through a stitch on the top of the
head, aligning it with the inner edge of colour change on the nose . Work all around the base of the
antler, sewing alternately through a stitch on the head and a loop of the cast on edge of the antler.

When the antler is fully attached tie the two tail ends together securely and sew them through the head and out
of the open seam underneath. Repeat with the second antler making sure they are in alignment (fig. 9). When
you are happy with positioning tie all 4 tail ends from the antlers together securely underneath the head and
trim the excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.

Once your deer head has ears and antlers you can add the embroidered camouflage speckles on the top of the
head, like so:
Cut a 14 inch length of cream yarn and use duplicate stitch/Swiss darning to stitch random single stitches
across the top of the head. I find that they look best if sewn as ‘V’ shapes when the head is facing you (rather
than upside-down ‘V’s) and 7 or 8 stitches is probably about right but you could add more if you prefer.

Once you’re happy with the speckles sew both of the cream yarn tail ends through the head and out of the
open seam underneath. Tie together to secure, before trimming them and poking ends inside the head cavity.

F a c i a l   f e a t u r e s

Finish the head by adding the nose, mouth and eyes, as detailed on Pages 7–8 of the fox pattern.

B o d y p a r t s,   f i n i s h i n g   o f f   a n d   c l o t h i n g

Continue making and finishing the body, legs and arms of the animal and the clothing by following the
instructions from pages 8–15 in either of my fox patterns.

The deer pictured on the front cover of this pattern are wearing the clothing included in the fox patterns. Their
clothes are knitted in the following yarns: Dress, socks and sweater in BC Garn Alba, shades 16 cream, 30
mushroom and 32 rose; shoes in Drops Safran 22 light brown; shorts in BC Garn Allino in CL01 brown.
I hope you’ve enjoyed working from this pattern and are pleased with the deer that you make from it.

The post Small Steps Before Christmas With Amigurumi Deers appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey

Here step by step making “Sausage Dog Draught Excluder”

Dog uses up to 70g in Yarn C, 30g in Yarn A, and up to 20g in

each of Yarn H, Yarn B, Yarn D, Yarn E, Yarn F and Yarn G.

Basic Descriptions To Make Sausage-Dog-Draught-Excluder

Needles

3.75mm straight knitting needles (US 5).

Size

Approximately 89cm long.

Extras

A darning or tapestry needle.

1 x 250g bag of toy filling.

2 x 9mm safety eyes.

Special Notes Before Starting

Work flat: All pieces are knitted flat (back and forth) on a pair of straight knitting needles.

Tension: The tension is approximately 22 sts x 28 rows for a 10cm x 10cm square in stockinette stitch on 3.75mm needles.

Casting on: Unless otherwise specified, use the long tail cast on for all pieces.

Sewing seams: Use mattress stitch to sew the seams.

Better To Know Abbreviating In Article

Time To Jump In Pattern

Dog Head

Make 1

Start at the back of the head

Cast on 9 sts in Yarn C on straight 3.75mm needles.

Row 1 and every foll alt row (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): [Kfb] 8 times, k1 (17 sts).

Row 4: [K1, kfb] 8 times, k1 (25 sts).

Row 6: [K2, kfb] 8 times, k1 (33 sts).

Row 8: [K3, kfb] 8 times, k1 (41 sts).

Row 10: [K4, kfb] 8 times, k1 (49 sts).

Row 12: [K5, kfb] 8 times, k1 (57 sts).

Row 14: Knit.

Row 16: [K6, kfb] 8 times, k1 (65 sts).

Rows 17 to 29: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 30: K6, [k4, k2tog] x 4, k5, [ssk, k4] x 4, k6 (57 sts).

Row 32: K6, [k3, k2tog] x 4, k5, [ssk, k3] x 4, k6 (49 sts).

Row 34: K6, [k2, k2tog] x 4, k5, [ssk, k2] x 4, k6 (41 sts).

Rows 35 to 39: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 40: K16, k2tog, k5, ssk, k16 (39 sts).

Rows 41 to 45: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 46: K15, k2tog, k5, ssk, k15 (37 sts).

Rows 47 to 51: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 52: K14, k2tog, k5, ssk, k14 (35 sts).

Rows 53 to 55: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 56: K13, k2tog, k5, ssk, k13 (33 sts).

Row 58: K1, [k2tog, k2] 8 times (25 sts).

Row 60: K1, [k2tog, k1] 8 times (17 sts).

Row 62: K1, [k2tog] 8 times (9 sts).

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

Dog Eyes

Make 2.

Start at the outer edge

Cast on 25 sts in Yarn D on straight 3.75mm needles.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k1] 8 times (17 sts).

Row 3: Purl.

Row 4: K1, [k2tog] 8 times (9 sts).

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

Dog Nose

Make 1.

Start at the outer edge.

Cast on 28 sts in Yarn F on straight 3.75mm needles.

Row 1 (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k1] 9 times (19 sts).

Row 3: Purl.

Row 4: K1, [k2tog] 9 times (10 sts).

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

Dog Ears

Make 2 in Yarn A and make 2 in Yarn C.

Cast on 9 sts on straight 3.75mm needles.

Start at the bottom edge.

Row 1 and every foll alt row (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): K1, kfb, knit to the last 2 sts, kfb, k1 (11 sts).

Rows 4, 6 and 8: Rep row 2 three more times (17 sts).

Rows 9 to 19: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 20: K1, ssk, knit to the last 3 sts, k2tog, k1 (15 sts).

Rows 21 to 25: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 26: Rep row 20 (13 sts).

Rows 27 to 29: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 30: Rep row 20 (11 sts).

Rows 31 to 33: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 34: Rep row 20 (9 sts).

Row 35: Purl.

Cast off.

Dog Body

Make 1.

Start at the tail end and cast on 9 sts in Yarn C on straight

3.75mm needles.

Row 1 and every foll alt row (WS): Purl.

Row 2 (RS): [Kfb] 8 times, k1 (17 sts).

Row 4: [K1, kfb] 8 times, k1 (25 sts).

Row 6: [K2, kfb] 8 times, k1 (33 sts).

Row 8: [K3, kfb] 8 times, k1 (41 sts).

Row 10: Knit.

Row 12: [K4, kfb] 8 times, k1 (49 sts).

Rows 13 to 17: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn C and join Yarn D.

Rows 18 to 30: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn D and join Yarn F.

Rows 31 to 43: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn F and join Yarn A.

Rows 44 to 56: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn A and join Yarn G.

Rows 57 to 69: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn G and join Yarn H.

Rows 70 to 82: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn H and join Yarn E.

Rows 83 to 95: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn E and join Yarn B.

Rows 96 to 108: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn B and join Yarn D.

Rows 109 to 121: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn D and join Yarn F.

Rows 122 to 134: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn F and join Yarn A.

Rows 135 to 147: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn A and join Yarn G.

Rows 148 to 160: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn G and join Yarn H.

Rows 161 to 173: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn H and join Yarn E.

Rows 174 to 186: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Break Yarn E and join Yarn B.

Rows 187 to 199: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Break Yarn B and join Yarn C.

Rows 200 to 205: Beg on a RS knit row, work in st st.

Row 206: [K4, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (41 sts).

Row 208: Knit.

Row 210: [K3, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (33 sts).

Row 212: [K2, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (25 sts).

Row 214: [K1, k2tog] 8 times, k1 (17 sts).

Row 216: [K2tog] 8 times, k1 (9 sts).

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

Dog Tail

Make 1.

Start at the base and cast on 16 sts in Yarn C on straight

3.75mm needles.

Rows 1 to 13: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 14 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k3] 3 times (13 sts).

Rows 15 to 17: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 18: K1, [k2tog, k2] 3 times (10 sts).

Row 19: Purl.

Row 20: [K2tog] 5 times (5 sts).

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

Dog Legs

Make 4.

Start at the top of the leg.

Cast on 22 sts in Yarn C on straight 3.75mm needles.

Rows 1 to 9: Beg on a WS purl row, work in st st.

Row 10 (RS): K1, [k2tog, k1] 7 times (15 sts).

Row 11: Purl.

Row 12: K1, [k2tog] 7 times (8 sts).

Break yarn and thread through rem sts. Pull tight to fasten.

Dog Collar

Make 1.

Cast on 32 sts in Yarn G on straight 3.75mm needles.

Rows 1 to 5: Knit.

Cast off.

Making Up

Body: Note that the cast off end is the front. Sew the side

edges together, stuffing as you sew, and gather the cast

on sts together at the back. The seam runs down centre

underside.

Legs: Sew the side edges together, add stuffing, and sew the

cast on edge onto the bottom side of the body.

Tail: Sew the side edges together, stuffing as you sew. Sew

the cast on edge on the back end of the body.

Head: Note that the cast off end is the nose. Sew the side

edges together, stuffing as you sew, and gather the cast

on sts together at the back. The seam runs down centre

underside.

Eyes: For each piece, sew the side edges together to make a

circle shape. Sew on a black button for the pupil, and sew the

eye onto the head.

Nose: Sew the side edges together to make a circle shape,

and sew onto the front of the head.

Ears: Sew one Yarn A piece and one Yarn C piece together

around the side and cast on edges, and sew the cast off edge onto the top of the head.

Join head and body: Sew the back of the head onto the front of the body.

Collar: Wrap around the neck and sew the side edges together.

Thank you for being patient till this last part. As Cocador we hope you to had a great time while reading and practicing. Have a heavenly day.

The post Step by Step How To Make Sausage Dog Draught Excluder appeared first on Cocador.

Special days are an excuse for giving a gift. Especially now, when the new year is coming, we are thinking of new gift ideas for our loved ones. Even if there is no special day, don’t forget to give a simple gift to the people you love.

You do not have to wait for special days to make your loved ones happy. Moreover, as you think, there is no need for a huge budget for the gift. Presents that comes in unexpected moments are the ones that make us happiest.  If you don’t have enough money or you want to give a more meaningful gift that you made this idea is perfect for you!

As a different painting alternative, you can take advantage of the letter you will give as a gift and the photos you will love with your friends, family, or girlfriend/boyfriend. You can have this letter made by the carpenter, cut and mow the photographs and paste them with glue.

The post Gift Ideas For Your Loved Ones appeared first on Cocador.