Cocador is a guest in your lives in a wide variety of areas, from hair care to japanese origami paper techniques. You’ll get lots of definitions, details, images and so on. That’s why we’ll make this entrance as short as possible. We have created a rough outline for our article. Good luck with your reading.

• get started making 3D paper art with origami paper
• unlock your creativity with japanese origami
• what you need to make 3D paper art with origami paper
• paper folding techniques to create paper sculpture with origami paper
• how to make 3D paper art with origami paper for fun handicrafts
• FAQ

Making 3D Paper Art with Origami Paper

Creating 3D paper art through paper folding is an enjoyable and fulfilling handicraft that can ignite your creativity and imagination. Whether you are a novice or a seasoned paper crafter, experimenting with origami paper can help you enhance your skills and master novel techniques to make intricate designs. With its diverse selection of colors, patterns, and textures, Japanese origami paper presents a perfect medium for your paper sculptures.

By utilizing some basic tools and a lot of perseverance, you can craft exquisite pieces of art that you and your kids will love to showcase. Exploring the art of paper folding with origami paper not only enables you to unleash your artistic potential but also allows you to enhance your crafting abilities while having fun.

Unlock Your Creativity with Japanese Origami

Trying your hand at Japanese Origami can provide a fun and satisfying pastime while also providing numerous physical and mental health advantages. This paper craft can aid in calming your mind, sharpening your attention, and enhancing your cognitive skills.

The rich heritage and culture behind Japanese Origami offer a unique approach to learning the art of paper folding. Thus, it is the perfect way to immerse yourself in this world of handicrafts and reveal your artistic potential. So, why not give Japanese Origami a try and let it stimulate your creativity?

Tutorial | How To Make a Origami Paper Crane

Whenever you wish, you can watch free tutorial of origami paper crane which is our team’s favorite.

What You Need to Make 3D Paper Art with Origami Paper

To start creating beautiful paper sculptures, having these essential tools at hand can help you achieve your desired results. By utilizing your creativity and these basic supplies, you can begin exploring the art of paper folding and making remarkable 3D paper art pieces.

Also origami paper, you’ll also need a flat and smooth surface to work on, like a desk or table. A ruler can come in handy to achieve precise folds. In addition scissors may be necessary to cut the paper to the appropriate size.

Paper Folding Techniques to Create Paper Sculpture with Origami Paper

To create breathtaking Origami paper sculptures, it’s crucial to master the techniques of paper folding. By comprehending the various folding techniques and their applications. Furthermore you can produce intricate designs and bring your paper artwork to life in three dimensions. Each technique is unique in its function and has a significant impact on the final design.

How to Make 3D Paper Art with Origami Paper for Fun Handicrafts

To commence your Origami journey, you’ll require origami paper, a level work surface. Also a guide or tutorial to assist you through the folding process. It’s time to unleash your imagination! Starting with basic designs such as paper cranes or flowers can help you gain confidence. And then you can move on to more intricate sculptures like animals or geometric shapes.

FAQ

The post <strong>Make 3D Paper Art with Origami Paper</strong> appeared first on Cocador.

When I was curious about origami, what is the easiest origami flower to make was the first question I searched on the internet. After that easy origami flower, simple origami flower and here we are. The art of origami involves the intricate folding of a piece of paper, and it’s truly remarkable how something as simple as a square piece of paper can be transformed into a stunning paper flower or an entire paper bouquet. Thanks to a wealth of online resources, you can easily find step-by-step tutorials for making all sorts of origami creations, including traditional origami, kusudama flowers, origami lotus flower, and origami tulip.

Easy Origami Flower Guide

An origami paper flower is a heartfelt and thoughtful gift for Mother’s Day or simply as a way to brighten up a space. Even if you’re new to the art of origami, you can easily create a simple origami flower by following a flower origami tutorial or by searching for phrases such as “how to make origami flower” or “how to do an origami flower” online. With a little patience and practice, you’ll soon be able to create stunning origami flowers on your own.Before we move on to how to make an origami flower step by step, let’s go through the pages of the encyclopedia about origami. If you want to take a look at a detailed description and history besides our abbreviated description, you can reach Britannica.

What Is Origami ?

Origami is an artistic technique that involves folding paper to create both 2D and 3D objects. This paper-folding art is commonly known as origami, derived from the Japanese words “oru”, which means “to fold,” and kami, which means “paper.” Despite some European historians’ belief that origami has been practiced independently in various parts of the world, the term origami has become the universal label for this craft. Also, origami is not a simple technique to make just an easy origami flower. It has several styles.

1. Realistic,

involves creating intricate patterns that accurately depict the subject’s major characteristics, requiring several processes to accomplish.

2. Minimal,

is an art form that emphasizes simplicity, using only a few folds to capture the essence of the subject.

3. Modular,

involves creating a collection of geometric “units” made from several sheets of paper folded in flaps and pockets to create polygons or polyhedra. Typically, only a few folds are used for all sheets.

4. Composite,

involves using numerous sheets of paper folded uniquely to actualize various aspects of the subject, much like modular origami, although it was more popular in the 1950s and 1960s.

5. Practical,

consists of creating models that can be used in the real world, such as plates, cups, envelopes, boxes, and so on.

6. Pureland,

which originated from Englishman John Smith, uses only square paper and “mountain” and “valley” folds to construct models that are easy to replicate.

7. Tessellations,

is a geometric folding technique that forms an image using the pattern of folded paper edges. Tessellations can be flat or three-dimensional and frequently repeat, with some showing additional structure when exposed to light. As expected, mathematicians are among the most significant users of this technique.

8. Wet folding,

is a technique invented by Akira Yoshizawa, where paper is slightly wet before folding and includes a water-soluble glue called sizing. The moisture allows the paper to be folded into flexible curves, which become more durable as the paper dries.

9. Crumpled,

is a folding technique invented by Paul Jackson and Vincent Floderer that involves crumpling the paper first. This method can create incredibly lifelike biological shapes.

Easy Origami Flower Tutorial : Lily

Today our easy origami flower is going to be Lily. After this tutorial you will get these questions frequently as a master of easy origami flower;

• how do you make an origami flower
• how to make an origami flower step by step
• how to make origami flower
• how to do an origami flower

May the tutorial be with you master.

You Will Need

• If you can find:
  • 1 sheet square paper (about 15 – 20 cm²)
• Otherwise:
  • 1 sheet colorful paper larger than 15 cm²
  • 1 scissors or utility knife [! adult supervision required for utility knife]
  • 1 ruler longer than 15 cm (to measure and helping to fold)
  • 1 pencil

Total Time

• Approximately 20 minutes

Although simple, it may take longer than expected, especially for first-timers. The important thing is that you learn while having fun. So let’s see easy origami flower step by step.

How To Make An Origami Flower Step By Step

• First of all make sure that there is efficient light to see every detail such as cutting edges straight, folding lines.
• Clear workspace, clear work, clear consequences.
• Make sure your workspace is clear to work easily.

1st Step : Make the Initial Folds

• If you have two-toned paper, start with the white side up.
• Fold the paper diagonally in half and unfold.
• Fold the paper diagonally the other way, then unfold.
• Two diagonal creases should now be visible.

2nd Step : First Flip then Fold

• Turn the sheet of paper over.
• Fold and unfold the paper as shown.
• As shown, fold the paper in half.
• Hold the bottom triangle and open the top right area, bringing it down to meet the bottom point.

3rd Step : Make a Square Foundation

• Flatten out the center crease.
• Squeeze the top section. This is known as a square base.
• The open end should be at the top.
• As shown, fold one layer of the right edge into the center.

4th Step : Fold to the Center

• As shown, fold one layer of the left section to the center.
• Extend the folds you just made.
• Open up and flatten one layer from the right.
• This is what you should have.

5th Step : Make Sure Repeat Three Times

• Step #4: Complete all of the mini-steps for the remaining three layers.
• Make sure the model looks like this, with the layers flipped so that the solid section is visible.
• Fold the right edge of the paper into the center.
• Fold the left edge of the paper into the center.

6th Step : Now You Got The Answer of How To Make Easy Origami Flower

• Fold the remaining three layers in the same manner.
• Fold one layer all the way down from the top.
• Fold the remaining three layers in the same manner.
• Congratulations on a well-executed origami lily!

The post <strong>What is the Easiest Origami Flower to Make? A Beginner’s Guide</strong> appeared first on Cocador.

As the Cocador content team, we will continue to provide you with useful amigurumi articles. In our previous post, we looked at the origins of amigurumi, its popularity, the distinctions between it and crochet, and simple amigurumi patterns for beginners. You may find it here if you want to have a look. We present you with 2 easy and lovely crochet amigurumi animal patterns for beginners.

2 Easy Crochet Animals Amigurumi Patterns for Beginners

You can find tons of amigurumi patterns online. Especially animal amigurumi are the most popular. All you need to do is type two words like amigurumi elephant, cat amigurumi, amigurumi cow, dinosaur amigurumi, bumblebee amigurumi and so on. In this article we present various amigurumi patterns.

1 – Baby Brussel Sprouts

A Christmas feast without Brussels sprouts just isn’t the same. You may knit them whether you love them or loathe them. You can hang these from your tree or use them as amusing places setting decorations for your dinner table. Instead of knitting in the round, each sprout is knit flat (back and forth) on a pair of single pointed knitting needles. Cast on with a long tail. Leave at least a 30 cm tail after cutting the yarn. Pull the stitches off the knitting needle and onto the yarn, gather them tightly, and secure with a knot. Thread the tail onto a darning needle.

Seaming: Use mattress stitch for seaming toys.

One size: 5cm wide.

Tension: 24 sts x 30 rows for a 10cm x 10cm square

in stockinette stitch on 3.5mm needles. Don’t worry

about tension for this pattern, it is not critical.

SPROUT

• Make 1. Start at the bottom. Cast on 7 sts in green on 3.5mm needles.
• Row 1 and all following WS rows: Purl
• Row 2 (RS): [Kfb] 6 times, k1 (13 sts)
• Row 4: [K1, kfb] 6 times, k1 (19 sts)
• Row 6: [K2, kfb] 6 times, k1 (25 sts)
• Row 8: Knit (25 sts)
• Row 10: [K2, k2tog] 6 times, k1 (19 sts)
• Row 12: [K1, k2tog] 6 times, k1 (13 sts)
• Row 14: [K2tog] 6 times, k1 (7 sts)
• Pull through to cast off.
• Add stuffing as you sew the side edges together.
• At the bottom, group the cast-on stitches.
• Attach two eyes to the sprout’s top (cast-off end).

OUTER LEAVES

• Make 3. Start at the bottom. Cast on 5 sts in green on 3.5mm needles.
• Row 1 (RS): Slip1, p1, k1, p2
• Row 2 (WS): Slip1, kfb, p1, kfb, k1 (7 sts)
• Row 3: Slip1, p2, k1, p3
• Row 4: Slip1, kfb, kfb, p1, kfb, kfb, k1 (11 sts)
• Row 5: Slip1, p4, k1, p5
• Row 6: Slip1, [kfb] 4 times, p1, [kfb] 4 times, k1

(19 sts)

• Row 7: Slip1, p8, k1, p9
• Row 8: Slip1, k8, p1, k9
• Row 9: Slip1, p8, k1, p9
• Row 10: Slip1, [ssk] 4 times, p1, [k2tog] 4 times, k1

(11 sts)

• Row 11: Slip1, p4, k1, p5
• Row 12: Slip1, ssk, ssk, p1, k2tog, k2tog, k1 (7 sts)
• Row 13: Slip1, p2, k1, p3
• Row 14: Slip1, ssk, p1, k2tog, k1 (5 sts)
• Pull through to cast off.
  

Baby Brussel Sprouts Amigurumi

If you liked this pattern feel free to share this post on Pinterest!

2 – Little Pumpkins For Halloween or Winter Vibe

26 Stitches x 36 Rows = 4 × 4 inches for the tension gauge (10 x 10 cm)

Finished Size of pumpkin: 9 cm in diameter and 4 cm high. (2.75 x 3.5 cm)

A beginner can use the pattern.

Pumpkin is flat worked up.

• Row 1 and ALL ODD rows – p Row 2 – (k1, m1) 10 times, k1. (21)
• Row 4 – (k2, m1) 10 times, k1. (31)
• Row 6 – (k3, m1) 10 times, k1. (41)
• Row 8 – (k4, m1) 10 times, k1. (51)
• Row 10 – (k5, m1) 10 times, k1. (61)
• Row 12 – (k6, m1) 10 times, k1. (71)
• Rows 14, 16, 18, 20, 22 & 24 – k. (71)
• Row 26 – (k5, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (61)
• Row 28 – (k4, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (51)
• Row 30 – (k3, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (41)
• Row 32 – (k2, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (31)
• Row 34 – (k1, k2tog) 10 times, k1. (21)
• Row 36 – (k2tog) 10 times, k1. (11)
  

Leave a lengthy tail of yarn, wind it through the needle’s final 11 loops, and pull to secure. After stuffing the pumpkin, sew up the side seam. Close the gap by pulling the yarn tail through the 11 cast-on stitches.

Pull tight and repeat around the pumpkin an additional five times to create six wedges by taking the yarn up the side and down through the center from top to bottom. Protect the end.

Stalk – using Caramel Cast on 7 sts

Row 2 – p

Cast off, and sew onto the top center of your pumpkin.

How to Make Amigurumi Little Pumpkins For Halloween or Winter Vibe

If you liked this pattern feel free to share this post on Pinterest!

The post Easy Crochet Animals Amigurumi Patterns for Beginners appeared first on Cocador.

Cocador provides access to a variety of publications pertaining to your lifestyle, ranging from skin care to fashion, hair care to knitting designs. Today we’ll look at amigurumi in further detail. What is amigurumi? What is difference between crochet and amigurumi? and How to learn amigurumi? You will find the best advice about amigurumi for beginners in this article.

What is Amigurumi?

The Japanese term “amigurumi” comes from combination of the words “ami” (knitted or crocheted) and “nuigurumi” (stuffed doll). Manufacturing stuffed animals in any size, but they are usually small and fashioned with thin yarns. Whether you are a novice or a pro, let’s explore why Amigurumi has become so popular. You’ll see how simple amigurumi may be for novices.

Why is amigurumi so popular?

Amigurumi is a happy, cute, and cuddly universe. The sculptures range from realistic to magical, with lazy unicorns, shy mermaids, and forest spirits to inquisitive pups, honey-loving bears, and shining princesses. These fictitious, vulnerable animals surprise and fill followers with joy. A quarter million people are members of an amigurumi Facebook group. The group offers 4,000 lovely animal patterns as well as a monthly gathering when individuals stitch on the same pattern while exchanging questions, suggestions, and images. 

What is the difference between crochet and amigurumi?

If you’re learning about amigurumi or the craft of crocheting, you’ve probably scratched your head, wondering how the two differ. Because you use the same yarn to make both of them, they appear to be similar at first glance. The completed product looks fairly similar as well. Up close, it is impossible to see the difference between the two.

The main contrast is that amigurumi isn’t just for crocheters. Aside from that, amigurumi is simply the art of making souvenirs and collectibles like as beautiful animals, and other fantastical creatures. So the amigurumi technique to make the vast majority of hand knitted/crocheted dolls and toys available in craft stores or online.

Just a quick break for Amigurumi ; Have you check our previous articles about hair care in winter and reasons for hair loss in Cocador

What Supplies Do You Need for Amigurumi?

You want to start amigurumi, but you don’t know where to start and most importantly what kind of materials you would need. We will satisfy your curiosity in this topic.

The main contrast is that amigurumi isn’t just for crocheters. Amigurumi can be done with either crochet or knitting. Aside from that, amigurumi is simply the art of making souvenirs and collectibles like as beautiful animals, animals, and other fantastical creatures. The amigurumi technique is used to make the vast majority of hand knitted/crocheted dolls and toys available in craft stores or online.

How to learn Amigurumi?

Everything you need to know about amigurumi may be accessed for free online. As I went along, then I practiced by following amigurumi patterns and YouTube instructions. Therefore working through a pattern—whether written or video—and learning each stitch and technique as you go is the most effective way to learn how to crochet amigurumi. You can find extensive, in addition different free resources about amigurumi for beginners.

10 Easy Amigurumi Patterns

The post What is Amigurumi? Detailed Guide for Beginners appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Here step by step making “Knitted Noah’s Ark – Penguins Free Pattern”

Introduction Before Jump In Knitting

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work

Measurements
Penguin – Height approximately 10 cm (3.93 inches) / Width approximately 7 cm (2.75 inches)
A perfect size to join Noah and all the animals on the ark!

Materials
Double Knitting yarn
(USA – knitting worsted weight:
Australia – 8ply) in white, black and orange
Knitting needles size 3¼mm (UK size 10)
Good quality washable toy stuffing
Sewing needle
Scissors

Pattern Notes

Instructions in round brackets
These are to be repeated the number of times stated after the closing bracket.

Casting on/off
The knitted casting on method is recommended. Cast off knit wise unless otherwise stated.

Sewing
Sew up all pieces using a tiny oversew stitch. Join seams with right sides together and then turn
right side out.

Toy safety
These characters have been designed for children, so please ensure that attached pieces are sewn
on very securely and seams are tightly finished off. Use only new, hygienic, washable stuffing that
conforms to current safety standards.

Please note that the pattern instructions which are highlighted in blue are to be knitted in white
yarn, and the instructions which are not highlighted are to be knitted in black yarn. Before you
begin make one small ball of black yarn from the same original ball.
Begin at penguin’s bottom, with black yarn cast on 10 sts

SONY DSC

Row 1 K1, (Inc 1) 8 times, K1 (18 sts)
Row 2 Purl
Row 3 K1, (K1, m1, K1) 8 times, K1 (26 sts)
Row 4 P11, K4, join second ball of black yarn P11
By using a second ball of black yarn you will not need
to carry the yarn across the back of the white breast,
which gives a neater finish!

Row 5 K10, m1, K6, m1, K10 (28 sts)
Row 6 P10, P8, P10
Row 7 K10, K8, K10
Row 8 P10, P8, P10
Rows 9 – 14 Repeat rows 7 – 8, 3 times
Row 15 K6, SSK, K2, K8, K2, K2tog, K6 (26 sts)
Row 16 P9, P8, P9
Row 17 K9, K8, K9
Row 18 P9, P8, P9
Row 19 K5, SSK, K2, K8, K2, K2tog, K5 (24 sts)
Row 20 P8, P8, P8
Row 21 K8, K8, K8
Row 22 P8, P8, P8
Row 23 K3, SSK, K3, SSK, K4, K2tog, K3, K2tog, K3 (20 sts)
Row 24 P7, P6, P7
Row 25 K7, K6, K7
Row 26 P7, P6, P7

Row 27 K4, m1, K3, K1, m1, K4, m1, K1, K3, m1, K4 (24 sts)
Row 28 P8, P8, P8
Row 29 K8, K4, m1, K4, K8 (25 sts)
Row 30 P8, P9, P8
Row 31 K8, K9, K8
Row 32 P8, P9, P8

Row 33 K8, K9, K8
Row 34 P8, P4, P1, P4, P8
Row 35 K8, SSK, K2tog, K1, SSK, K2tog, K8 (21 sts)
Rows 36 – 38 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 3 rows
Row 39 K4, SSK, K9, K2tog, K4 (19 sts)
Row 40 Purl
Row 41 K4, SSK, K7, K2tog, K4 (17 sts)
Row 42 Purl
Row 43 (K2tog) 8 times, K1 (9 sts) B&T

Join the side edges of the head, working down from the
gathered top of the head. Turn right side out. Work a
gathering thread through the cast on stitches and draw up.
Then working up from the bottom, join the side seam,
leaving a 4cm opening. Stuff the head and body firmly,
shaping as you go. Oversew gap in body seam.

Wings (make two)
Using black yarn, cast on 8 sts
Row 1 Purl
Row 2 (Inc 1) 7 times, K1 (15 sts)
Rows 3 – 9 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 7 rows
Row 10 K1, SSK, K10, K2tog (13 sts)
Row 11 Purl
Row 12 K1, SSK, K8, K2tog (11 sts)
Row 13 Purl
Row 14 K1, SSK, K6, K2tog (9 sts) B & T
With right side of st-st outside, fold wings in half and
over sew row ends together. Position and sew the wings
onto the penguin’s body.

Feet (make two)
Using orange yarn, cast on 4 sts
Row 1 Inc 1, K1, Inc 1, K1 (6 sts)
Rows 2 – 5 Beg with a Purl row, st-st 4 rows
Row 6 K2tog, (yrn, K2tog) 2 times (5 sts)
Rows 7 – 11 Beg with a Knit row, st-st 5 rows
B&T

With right side of st-st outside, fold feet in half and oversew the side edges together. Position and
sew the feet onto the penguin.

Beak
Using orange yarn, cast on 10 sts
Row 1 K2, SSK, K2, K2tog, K2 (8 sts)
Row 2 P1, P2tog, P2, SSP, P1 (6 sts)
B&T

Sew the side seam of the beak and position and sew
the beak onto the penguin. With black yarn
embroider two small eyes, as illustrated.

The post Knitted Noah’s Ark – Penguins Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Noah’s Ark – Elephants Knitting Free Pattern”

It’s difficulty level is over-intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

MEASUREMENT
To centre Back 17cm (6¾in)

MATERIALS
F071 Snuggly Baby Bamboo DK main shades 116 or 109 2 x 50g balls
Oddments of shades 120 and 170
1 Pair of 3¼mm Knitting Needles
Stuffing. Small amount of black yarn for eyes.

ABBREVIATIONS
cm centimetres, mm millimetres, in inches, M main, C contrast, k knit, p purl,
inc increase, psso pass slipped stitch over, rem remain, rep repeat, sts stitches,
s1 slip one stitch knitways, tbl through back of loop, tog together.
M1 make 1 stitch – pick up loop between last and next stitch and work into the back of
this loop.
st-st stocking stitch. 1st Row. Knit. 2nd Row. Purl. Rep these 2 rows.

BODY
(Worked in 1 piece commencing
from back end)
Using M cast on 30 sts.
Working in st-st (throughout) proceed
as follows:-
Next Row. Knit.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K2, * m1, k2 rep from * to
end. 44 sts.
Next and Every Alternate Row. Purl.
Next Row. Inc in 1 st st, k20, m1, k2,
m1, k19, inc in next st, k1. 48 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, knit to last
2sts, inc in next st, k1. 50 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, k23, m1, k2,
m1, k22, inc in next st, k1. 54 sts.
Next Row. Inc in 1st st, knit to last 2

sts, inc in next st, k1. 56 sts.
Work 13 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K25, k2togtbl, k2, k2tog,
k25. 54 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Rep last 4 rows 3 times more. 48 sts.
Work 4 rows without shaping.
Next Row. (K2tog) 24 times. 24 sts.
Next Row. (P2tog) 12 times. 12 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

HEAD

Using M cast on 25 sts.
Working in st-st (throughout) proceed
as follows:-
Next Row. K11, m1, k3, m1, k11. 27 sts.

Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k5, m1, k11. 29 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k7, m1, k11. 31 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k9, m1, k11. 33 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k11, m1, k11.
35 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k13, m1, k11.
37 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. K11, m1, k15, m1, k11.
39 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Work 8 rows without shaping, placing a
marker at each end of last row.
Next Row. K2tog, k16, s1, k2tog, psso,
k16, k2tog. 35 sts.
Next Row. P2tog, purl to last 2 sts,
p2tog. 33 sts.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 31 sts.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more.19 sts.
Work 7 rows without shaping.

SHAPE TRUNK
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 17 sts.
Work 5 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 15 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Break off M and join in C.
Knit 2 rows.
Next Row. (K2tog) 3 times, k3, (k2tog)
3 times. 11 sts.
Next Row. P2tog, purl to last 2 sts,
p2tog. 9 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

LEGS (Make 4)
Using M cast on 16 sts.
Work 22 rows in st-st.
Break off M and join in C.
Knit 2 rows.
Next Row. K1, (k2tog) 7 times, k1. 9 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Next Row. (K2tog) twice, k1, (k2tog)
twice. 5 sts.
Break off yarn and thread through rem
sts and fasten off.

EARS (Make 4 pieces)
Using M cast on 12 sts.
Next Row. Inc in each st to last st, k1.
23 sts.
Work 7 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 21 sts.
Work 3 rows without shaping.
Next Row. K2tog, knit to last 2 sts,
k2tog. 19 sts.
Next Row. Purl.
Rep last 2 rows 3 times more. 13 sts.
Next Row. (K2tog) 3 times, k1, (k2tog)
3 times. 7 sts.
Cast off purlways.

TO MAKE UP

Working from given spot diagram,
using C, randomly Swiss darn each piece with the spots.

Join side edges
and stuff Back working towards the
cast on edge. Fold cast on edge in half
and sew edges together. Join side edges
of legs and stuff. Sew side edges of
trunk and stuff to marker. Fold cast on
edge at top of head in half, sew
together and stuff. Place open end of
head around gathered end of body and
sew in place. Sew sides edges of 2
sections of ear, together leaving cast on
edge open. Sew ears approximately 7
stitches back from head shaping, leaving a 2cm, (¾in) gap between ears.
Using black yarn work a French knot
with a straight stitch to each side for
eyes. Cut 8 lengths of main yarn 40cm,
(15¾in) long to make a twisted cord
tail. Make a knot in tail leaving 3cm,
1¼in) fringe and cut across straight.
Fasten to top of cast on edge of Back.
Cut 8 lengths of yarn 10cm, (¾in) long
and fasten together, sewing to centre
of head to form tuft. Trim to about
2cm, (¾in).

The post How To Create Knitted Noah’s Ark – Elephants | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

As you remember we shared “Teddy Bear Pattern” with you. Now time to reform Ted’s wardrobe

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with “Knitted Ted Bear’s Wardrobe”

First Elegant Piece of Ted’s Wardrobe

Ted Bear Jacket

Finished size
Completed jacket measures approx. 8 cm (31/4 in) long and 15.5 cm (6 in) wide from left sleeve cuff to right sleeve cuff.
Completed jumper measures approx. 10 cm (4 in) long and approx. 15.5 cm (6 in) wide from sleeve edge to sleeve edge.

Yarn
Rowan Alpaca Soft DK 1 x 50g
Jacket shown in Green Teal 213.
Jumper shown in Autumn Gold 220.

Needles
Jacket only: 1 pair 3.25mm (no.10) (US 3) needles.
Jacket & Jumper: 1 pair 4mm (no.8) (US 6) needles.

Extras
Jacket:
2 small buttons.
2 x safety pins.
2 x stitch holders or large safety pins.

Jumper:
2 x stitch holders or large safety pins.

Tension
22 sts and 30 rows to 10 cm measured over st st using 4mm (US 6) needles.

Pattern Note
The neckline on Ted’s jumper is quite snug so you might find it easier to insert his head into the jumper before fully stuffing.
Omit buttons & buttonholes from jacket if knitting for a baby or small child.

Jacket
Using 3.25mm (US 3) needles cast on 14 sts.

RIGHT FRONT

Work 4 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Row 5 K2, cast off 2 sts (3 sts on right needle), K to end. 12 sts.
Row 6 K to buttonhole gap, cast on 2 sts, K to end.
14 sts.
Work 2 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Change to 4mm needles.
Row 9 Knit.
Row 10 P to last 6 sts, K6.
Row 11 & 12 As rows 9 & 10.
Row 13 K2, cast off 2 (3 sts on right needle), K to end.12 sts.
Row 14 P to last 4 sts, K2, cast on 2, K2. 14 sts.
Row 15 Knit.
Row 16 Cast on 7 sts, K2, P to last 6 sts, K6. 21 sts.
Row 17 K6, SSK, K to end. 20 sts.
Row 18 K2, P to last 6 sts, K6.
Row 19 K1, SSK, K to end. 19 sts.
Row 20 K2, P to last 5 sts, K5.
Row 21 K5, SSK, K to end. 18 sts.
Row 22 As row 20.
Row 23 K1, SSK, K to end. 17 sts.
Row 24 K2, P to last 4 sts, K4.
Row 25 K1, SSK, K to end. 16 sts.
Row 26 K2, P to last 3 sts, K3.
Slip these 16 sts onto a holder for right back.

LEFT FRONT

Using 3.25mm (US 3) needles cast on 14 sts.

Work 8 rows in g st ending with a WS row.
Change to 4mm needles.
Next row Knit.
Next row K6, P to end.
These 2 rows form main patt.
Cont in main patt for 6 rows.
Next row Cast on 7 sts, K to last 8 sts, K2tog, K to end.
20 sts.
Next row K6, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 19 sts
Next row K5, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 7 sts, K2tog, K to end. 18 sts
Next row K5, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 17 sts
Next row K4, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 16 sts
Next row K3, P to last 2 sts, K2.

BACK

Next row K to last 3 sts, slip the 3 g st button band stitches onto a safety pin, cast on 9 sts, slip 3 g st button band stitches from holder onto a 2nd safety pin, K rem 13 sts from holder.
35 sts on needle.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 4 times more.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, P to last 2 sts, K2. 28 sts.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, K to end. 21 sts.
Beg with P row, work 7 rows in st st ending on a WS row.
Change to 3.25mm (US 3) needles.
Work 8 rows in g st.
Cast off.

NECKBAND

Using 4mm (US 6) needles join yarn to 3 sts from safety pin on right button band.
Work 10 rows in g st.
Cast off.
Rep as set, using 3 sts from safety pin on left button band.

Making up

Join cast off edges of neckband at centre back and sew neckband in position evenly along neck edge.
Using mattress st, join sleeve and side seams
Sew buttons in position to match button holes.

Ladies Give It Up For The Best Cozy Piece of Ted‘s Wardrobe

Ted Bear Jumper

Pocket lining
Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 13 sts.
Beg with K row, work 11 rows in st st ending on a RS row.
Break off yarn and leave these 13 sts on a holder.

Jumper
Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 21 sts.

FRONT

Row 1 K1, *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Beg with K row, work 8 rows in st st.
Next row K5, P1, (K1, P1) 5 times, K to end.
Next row P5, K1, (P1, K1) 5 times, P to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Next row K5, cast off next 11 sts in rib, K to end.
Next row P4, with RS of pocket lining facing WS of front section – purl the next st together with the first st of pocket lining, P to last pocket lining st, P this st together with next st on left needle tbl, P to end.
Next row Knit.

Next row Cast on 7 sts, K2, P to end. 28 sts.
Next row Cast on 7 sts, K to end. 35 sts.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Break off yarn and slip first 11 sts onto a holder for left side, join yarn and knit centre 13 sts, slip next 11 sts onto a holder for right side.
Work 2 rows in g st across centre 13 sts.
Cast off.

BACK

Using 4mm (US 6) needles cast on 13 sts.
Work 2 rows in g st.
Break off yarn.
Next row With WS facing, (K2, P9) from right side
holder, P13 from needle, (P9, K2) from left
side holder. 35 sts.
Next row Knit.
Next row K2, P to last 2 sts, K2.
Next row Knit.
Rep the last 2 rows 3 times more.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, P to last 2 sts, K2. 28 sts.
Next row Cast off 7 sts, K to end. 21 sts.
Beg with P row, work 15 rows in st st.
Row 1 K1, *P1, K1, rep from * to end.
Row 2 P1, *K1, P1, rep from * to end.
Rep these 2 rows once more.
Cast off in rib.

Making up

Sew pocket lining in place on reverse of jumper
Join neckband edges
Join sleeve and side seams using mattress st.

The post Time To Reform Knitted Ted Bear’s Wardrobe with Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Knitted Face Scrubbies”

Materials

• Worsted weight cotton yarn (I’ve knit these up in Sugar ‘n Cream, Crafter’s Secret, Knit Picks Dishie, and I Love This
Cotton and they all work very well, though some are easier to knit with than others)
• Size 3.75mm (US 5) DPN needles.
• Stitch marker
• Tapestry Needle for finishing and sewing in ends.

Abbreviations

K – Knit P – Purl
KFB – Knit the front and back of a stitch, increasing the stitch by one. (Use the make one stitch increase of your choice here,
KFB is only used for simplicity.)

Pattern

Cast on 6 stitches (I use the Old Norwegian cast on or the Long-Tail Cast On).
Place 2 stitches on each dpn and begin working in the round, marking the beginning of the round with a stitch marker.
This is the most fiddly part until you are a couple rows in.
Row 1 and every odd row: Purl
Row 2: KFB every stitch (12 stitches)
Row 4: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row (18 stitches)
Row 6: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row (27 stitches)
Row 8: K1, KFB – repeat to the end of the row – K1 (40 stitches)
Row 10: Bind off all stitches except the last 2 using Jeny’s Surprisingly Stretchy Bind-Off (Knitty has a great tutorial)

Strap

With the two stitches left after binding off, you want to pick up two
stitches for a total of four stitches to begin the strap. I like to do this
by knitting the two stitches, then picking one up in the gap left
between here and the beginning of your bind off and then one from
the beginning of the bind off itself.
From here on you will be working back and forth on two dpns
instead of in the round. You can do garter stitch or stockinette stitch
according to your tastes. I work 21 rows (your results may vary),
slipping the first stitch on each row for a neater edge.

Finishing

Once you reach the length of strap you desire, you have a few ways
you can finish your scrubbie.

Method 1: Bind off your four stitches and then sew them to the
opposite edge.
Method 2: Cut yarn to leave a 7-8 inch tail. With your tapestry
needle join your live stitches to the opposite edge.
Sew in your ends and cut the excess yarn and you have a face scrubbie!

The post The Best Way To Make Knitted Face Scrubbies appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Amigurumi Deers

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work
• SSK (SLIP, SLIP, KNIT) : Slip a stitch (as if to knit it) to
  the right-hand needle, slip a second stitch in the same
  way, slip both stitches together back to the left-hand
  needle and knit together through the back loops.

M a t e r i a l s

• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a mid brown colour: Yarn A
• Worsted or light Aran yarn (see fox pattern for
quantity) in a beige colour: Yarn B
• 4ply/fingering weight yarn (approx. 4m/4yds) in a
dark brown colour for the antlers
• Scraps of 4ply black yarn 4ply for the eyes, nose
and facial features
• Toy stuffing
• A tiny button

N o t i o n s

• Knitting needles: A pair each of straight 3mm (US 2.5)
and 2.75mm (US 2) and two 2.75mm (US 2) DPNs
(double pointed needles)
• Tapestry needle

F i n i s h e d  s i z e

Finished deer is approx 23cm (9 inches) from the tip
of the toes to the top of the head
G a u g e:
Gauge for deer: 6 stitches x 9 rows to 1 inch
Gauge for clothes: 7 stitches x 10 rows to 1 inch

Th e  p a t t e r n  i n s t r u c t i o n s

The deer is made using exactly the same instructions as written in either of my fox patterns, there are however
some differences in the yarn used and in construction:
• For Yarn A use a mid brown colour (instead of a rust) and for Yarn B a beige colour (instead of cream).
Here I have used Cascade 220 worsted yarn in Praline 9695 (Yarn A) and Beige 8021 (Yarn B)
• The ears are joined to the sides of the head, rather than the top as in the fox, see notes on Ears below,
• Once the ears are joined, there are optional antlers to make, see antler instructions.
• After joining the ears and antlers, speckles are embroidered onto the top of the head using duplicate
stitch. Then the eyes, nose and mouth are added (as detailed in the fox pattern).

H e a d:
Knit, finish and stuff the head exactly as detailed, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and a beige yarn (instead of cream) for Yarn B.

E a r s: (make two the same):
Make the ears exactly as detailed on either Page 5 or Page 16 of the fox pattern, but for Yarn A use a mid brown
yarn (instead of a rust colour) and for Yarn B a beige yarn (instead of cream). Don’t use black yarn to tip the
outer ear, instead work it entirely in Yarn A.

Once the ears are finished and sewn together
use the cast on tail to sew together the front edges at the base of each ear.

Join the ears to the sides of the head, aligning them 4 rows back from the inner edge of the first row of lighter
colour on the cheek. Use the two Yarn A tails from the ear to join both the top side and bottom side of
the ear. Once the ear is fully attached, tie both yarn tails together at the back of the ear and sew them
through the head and out of the open seam underneath. Join the second ear in the same way then tie
all 4 ends from the ears together and trim excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.
If you would like your deer to have antlers, then now is the time to make and attach them.

A n t l e r s: (make a mirrored pair *):

Starting at the thick base of the antler and finishing at the top points. Use dark brown 4 ply weight yarn and
2.75mm needles to cable cast on 8 stitches, leaving an 8 inch tail for attaching it to the head with later.

row 1: (wrong side) Purl
rows 2-5: Beginning with a Knit row and ending with a Purl row, work 4 rows of stocking stitch
row 6: Change to a 2.75mm DPN (double pointed needle), K2tog, K2 (3 stitches)
leave the remaining 4 stitches un-worked (transfer them to a stitch holder if you prefer). Continue on
the 3 stitches only and with 2 DPNs work an i-cord like so:
row 7: Now the 3 stitches are on the right-hand needle and the working yarn is coming from the left-most
stitch. Slide the stitches from one end of the needle to the other and without turning the needle,
transfer it to your left hand. Bring the working yarn across the back of the work and Knit the 3 stitches
again, you will need to keep a tight tension. The only difference from a normal knitted row is that the
yarn is coming from the last stitch and across the back of the work instead of from the first stitch
rows 8-12: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 five more times.
Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide
them off the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down
through the centre of the antler point and leave it hanging for now. Continue on the remaining 4 stitches:
row 6b: Leaving an 8 inch tail for seaming with later, re-join the yarn and use 2 x DPNs: K2, SSK (3 stitches)
rows 7b-9b: Continue working an i-cord by repeating row 7 above three times.

Cut the work from the ball leaving a 4 inch tail, sew this through the 3 stitches on the needle and slide them off
the needle, pull tightly to close the gap at the top of the antler point. Sew the cast off end down through the
centre of the antler point and, without deforming the antler points by pulling too hard, tie it to the short cast off
tail from the first point to secure both ends and cut short so that they will be hidden inside the finished antler.

Thread the tapestry needle with the long cast on tail from the second antler point and use it to seam the edges
of the thick lower stem of the antler using mattress stitch. When you reach the cast on edge tie both tail ends
together to secure them. That is the first antler finished.

* Make a second antler in the same way, but reverse the height of the two antler points (make the first i-cord
point 4 rows tall and the second one 7 rows tall), so that the finished pair of antlers mirror each other.
I think the antlers look best with the taller points innermost and the shorter points on the outside, but please
decide for yourself what looks best with the pair of antlers you have made – ideally the seam should run up the
back of each antler.

Next you are aiming to join the antlers so that the base of each is sewn to the top of the head in a small circle.
Thread the tapestry needle with the longest tail from one antler and sew through a stitch on the top of the
head, aligning it with the inner edge of colour change on the nose . Work all around the base of the
antler, sewing alternately through a stitch on the head and a loop of the cast on edge of the antler.

When the antler is fully attached tie the two tail ends together securely and sew them through the head and out
of the open seam underneath. Repeat with the second antler making sure they are in alignment (fig. 9). When
you are happy with positioning tie all 4 tail ends from the antlers together securely underneath the head and
trim the excess, poke the trimmed ends inside the head cavity.

Once your deer head has ears and antlers you can add the embroidered camouflage speckles on the top of the
head, like so:
Cut a 14 inch length of cream yarn and use duplicate stitch/Swiss darning to stitch random single stitches
across the top of the head. I find that they look best if sewn as ‘V’ shapes when the head is facing you (rather
than upside-down ‘V’s) and 7 or 8 stitches is probably about right but you could add more if you prefer.

Once you’re happy with the speckles sew both of the cream yarn tail ends through the head and out of the
open seam underneath. Tie together to secure, before trimming them and poking ends inside the head cavity.

F a c i a l   f e a t u r e s

Finish the head by adding the nose, mouth and eyes, as detailed on Pages 7–8 of the fox pattern.

B o d y p a r t s,   f i n i s h i n g   o f f   a n d   c l o t h i n g

Continue making and finishing the body, legs and arms of the animal and the clothing by following the
instructions from pages 8–15 in either of my fox patterns.

The deer pictured on the front cover of this pattern are wearing the clothing included in the fox patterns. Their
clothes are knitted in the following yarns: Dress, socks and sweater in BC Garn Alba, shades 16 cream, 30
mushroom and 32 rose; shoes in Drops Safran 22 light brown; shorts in BC Garn Allino in CL01 brown.
I hope you’ve enjoyed working from this pattern and are pleased with the deer that you make from it.

The post Small Steps Before Christmas With Amigurumi Deers appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Ginger Breadboy Knitting Free Pattern”

It’s difficulty level is over-intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

Introduction Before Jump In Knitting

Abbreviations

• CO cast on
• dpn double pointed needle
• K knit
• st stitch
• sts stitches
• M1 make one stitch (see special note below)
• K2tog knit two stitches together
• pm place a stitch marker
• sm slip the stitch marker
• PU pick up (create) a new stitch from existing work

Materials Required

Worsted weight yarn – about 90 yards
Size 4 double pointed needles
Darning needle
4 stitch markers
Stuffing
Embellishments of your choosing

Special Note
M1 = make one stitch: Lift the right “leg” of the next stitch (the right side of the stitch directly
below the next stitch on your left needle), place it on the left needle, then knit it as you would any
other stitch.

Body and Legs

• CO 30 sts onto 3 dpns and work the following rounds:
• 1) K5, pm, K5, pm, K10, pm, K5, pm, K5
• 2) (K to 1 st before marker, M1, K1, sm, M1) repeat to last few sts after marker, K to end
• 3) K all sts
  Repeat rounds 2 and 3 until there are a total of 86 sts separated between the markers as
  12 – 19 – 24 – 19 – 12. End after a plain K round, then work the rounds below removing the stitch
  markers as you reach them on round 1:
  • 1) K12, slip the next 19 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, K24, slip the next 19 sts onto a piece
    of scrap yarn, K12 (48 sts)
  • 2) K all sts
  • 3) K11, M1, K2, M1, K22, M1, K2, M1, K11
  • 4) K all sts
  • 5) K12, M1, K2, M1, K24, M1, K2, M1, K12 (56 sts)
  • 6-13) K all sts
  • 14) K28, slip the next 28 sts onto a piece of scrap yarn, CO 2 sts (30 sts)
  • 15-35) K all sts
  • 36) (K1, K2tog) repeat to end of round
  • 37) K all sts
  • 38) (K2tog) repeat to end of round

Cut yarn, insert end into a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Pull tightly closed and
secure. Place the 28 sts from the other leg onto 3 dpns. Knit across all of them, then CO 2 sts, and
repeat rounds 15-38 above.

To seam hole between the legs, turn your Gingerbread Boy inside out and hold sides of hole together.
Make one seam from front to back (or back to front). Turn right side out again.

Arms

Place 19 sts from one of the arms onto 3 dpns. PU 2 sts between needles 1 and 3 at bottom of
arm, then work the following rounds:

• 1-10) K all sts
• 11) (K1, K2tog) repeat to end of round
• 12) K all sts
• 13) (K2tog) repeat to end of round

Cut yarn, insert end into a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Pull tightly closed and
secure. Place the 19 sts from the other arm onto 3 dpns. PU 2 sts as above, and work rounds 1-13.
Darn small holes beneath the arms.

Head

Beginning just to the right of the first CO st, (center of your Gingerbread Boy’s chest), PU 30 sts (1 in
each of the original CO sts) and work the following rounds:

• 1) K all sts
• 2) K7, M1, K2, M1, K12, M1, K2, M1, K7
• 3) K all sts
• 4) K8, M1, K2, M1, K14, M1, K2, M1, K8
• 5) K all sts
• 6) K9, M1, K2, M1, K16, M1, K2, M1, K9
• 7-14) K all sts
• 15) K7, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K16, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K7
• 16) K all sts
• 17) K6, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K14, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6
• 18) K all sts
• 19) K5, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K12, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K5
• 20) K all sts
• 21) K4, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K10, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4
• 22) K3, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K8, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K3
• 23) K2, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K6, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K2
• 24) K1, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K4, K2tog, K2, K2tog, K1

Cut yarn, insert end into a darning needle, and thread through remaining live sts. Do not pull closed yet.
Stuff your Gingerbread Boy beginning at the bottom of his legs and working upward to top of head.
Pull closed and secure. Use a dpn to help spread the stuffing out evenly throughout his body, and to the
ends of the arms and legs.

Now for the fun part!

Your Gingerbread Boy can be embellished using any materials you like. This is a chance to show off
your creativity! Buttons, rickrack, ribbon, etc. can be sewn on, or attached with a tiny bit of hot glue. You
can embroider your Gingerbread Boy with scrap yarn, or even try some fabric paint. Have fun!

The post How To Make Ginger Breadboy Knitting | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Today we are going to get ready ourselves for cold but cosy nights with the best knitting website Cocador.

Here Is The Sweetest Knitted Teddy Bear Free Pattern

BEFORE STARTING

Yarn
Rowan Felted Tweed
1 x 50g ball (shown in Clay 177)

Needles
1 pair 3.25mm needles.

Extras
Oddment of contrasting yarn for face.
Washable toy stuffing.

Tension
24 sts and 34 rows to 10 cm measured over st st using 3.25mm needles.

Finished size
Completed Ted measures approx. 24 cm (91/2 in) tall and 17 cm (7 in) wide

Ted Bear
Using 3.25mm needles cast on 9 sts.

BACK

Next row Knit across sts from needle and sts from
holder. 22 sts.
Beg with P row, work 29 rows in st st.

Back of Arms
Cast on 11 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 44 sts.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 46 sts.
Beg with P row, work 5 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
44 sts.
Next row Purl.

Back of Head
Cast off 16 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 12 sts.

Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 14 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 16 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 18 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 20 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 22 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
20 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
18 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
16 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
14 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
12 sts.
Next row Purl.

Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
10 sts.
Next row Purl.

Front of Head
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 12 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 14 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K2, M1, K8, M1, K2, M1, K1. 18 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K5, M1, K6, M1, K5, M1, K1. 22 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K8, M1, K4, M1, K8, M1, K1. 26 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K11, M1, K2, M1, K11, M1, K1. 30 sts.
Beg with P row, work 3 rows in st st.
Next row K13, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K13. 28 sts.
Next row Purl.

Next row K12, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K12. 26 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K11, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K11. 24 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K10, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K10. 22 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K9, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K9. 20 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K5, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K5,
K2tog, K1. 16 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K3, K2tog tbl, K2tog, K3,
K2tog, K1. 12 sts.

Front of Arms
Cast on 16 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 44 sts.
Next row Purl.
Next row K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 46 sts.
Beg with P row, work 5 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1.
44 sts.

Back of Legs
*Row 1 Knit
Row 2 Purl
Row 3 K1, M1, K to last st, M1, K1. 11 sts.
Beg with P row, work 21 rows in st st.**
Break off yarn and leave sts on holder.
Using 3.25mm needles cast on 9 sts.
Work as first leg from * to **

BODY

Cast off 11 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 22 sts.
Beg with P row, work 29 rows in st st.

Front of Legs & Feet
Next row K11, place rem 11 sts on holder.
*Beg with P row, work 14 rows in st st.
Place marker in first & last st of last row.
Beg with P row, work 11 rows in st st.
Break off yarn.
With right side facing, pick up and knit 11 sts along right hand side of work from marker to needle, Knit 11 sts from needle, then pick up and knit 11 sts from left hand side of work to marker. 33 sts.
Beg with P row, work 9 rows in st st.
Cast off 11 sts at beg of next 2 rows. 11 sts.
Beg with K row, work 10 rows in st st.
Next row K1, K2tog tbl, K to last 3 sts, K2tog, K1. 9 sts.

Cast off Pwise on WS row.
Re-join yarn to rem 11 sts and knit to end.
Complete as set for 1st leg & foot from *

Ears (make 2)
Using 3.25mm needles cast on 7 sts.
Work 5 rows in g st.
Next row K2tog tbl, K to last st, K2tog. 5 sts.
Next row Knit.
Next row K2tog tbl, K to last st, K2tog. 3 sts.
Cast off.

Making Up
Sew bases of feet in position.
Fold bear in half and join back section to front along all seams, using mattress st and stuffing as you go.
Sew ears in position on head.
Using oddment of contrasting yarn, embroider eyes, nose and mouth on head, using image as a guide

The post The Sweetest Knitted Teddy Bear Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “Great Up North Cabin Mitten Pattern” which inspired by Norwegian mittens and cold Wisconsin winters

It’s difficulty level is intermediate but with Cocador  its going to be easy and fun.

Materials

Worsted Weight yarn in Red, Light Blue, White, and Light Green Size US 7 double-pointed needles Size US 8 double-pointed needles Yarn needle

CUFF, BOTH MITTENS

With white yarn and US 7 seven needles, cast on 30 stitches. Divide onto three or four needles, join, and work 16 rows of k1 p1 ribbing in the round.

BODY, RIGHT HAND MITTEN

Round 1: Switch to US 8 needles and work one round in Stockinette Stitch, making 3 stitches, spaced evenly around. (33 sts total)

Round 2: k20, place marker, m1 right, k1, m1 left, place marker, k12

Round 3: Knit all stitches

Round 4: work Chart A as indicated, slip marker, with white, m1 right, knit all stitches between markers, m1 left, slip marker, work Chart B as indicated (Be sure to check that you are reading all charts as indicated above the chart. If you are doing it right, there will be a white stitch on either side of the color-work sections.)

Note: The section between the markers is the thumb gusset. Always work the thumb gusset in white, wrapping the other yarn around the white every two or three stitches to carry it over to the other side.

Round 5: work Chart A, slip marker, knit all stitches between markers in white, slip marker, work Chart B
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 until there are 13 stitches between the markers.

Next round: work Chart A to marker, remove marker, transfer all thumb gusset stitches to waste yarn, remove second marker, yarn over once in white to bridge the gap, work Chart B to end of round.

Successive rounds: work Chart A, work Chart B (Chart B now includes the stitch you created to bridge the gap over the thumb gusset)

Once you have finished working the last row of both patterns, knit one round in white. Continue to TOP OF MITTEN directions.

BODY, LEFT HAND MITTEN

Round 1: Switch to US 8 needles and work one round in Stockinette Stitch, making 3 stitches, spaced evenly around. (33 sts total)

Round 2: k20, place marker, m1 right, k1, m1 left, place marker, k12

Round 3: Knit all stitches Round 4: work Chart B as indicated, slip marker, with white, m1 right, knit all stitches between markers, m1 left, slip marker, work Chart A as indicated (Be sure to check that you are reading all charts as indicated above the chart. If you are doing it right, there will be a white stitch on either side of the color-work sections.)

Note: The section between the markers is the thumb gusset. Always work the thumb gusset in white, wrapping the other yarn around the white every two or three stitches to carry it over to the other side.

Round 5: work Chart B, slip marker, knit all stitches between markers in white, slip marker, work Chart A
Repeat rounds 4 and 5 until there are 13 stitches between the markers.

Next round: work Chart B to marker, remove marker, transfer all thumb gusset stitches to waste yarn, remove second marker, yarn over once in white to bridge the gap, work Chart A to end of round.

Successive rounds: work Chart B, work Chart A (Chart B now includes the stitch you created to bridge the gap over the thumb gusset)

Once you have finished working Charts A and B, work across the first thirteen stitches in the manor established. This is the beginning of all successive rounds. Continue to TOP OF MITTEN directions.

Knit one round in white.

TOP OF MITTEN, BOTH MITTENS

Round 1: k4, k2tog, k5. Repeat around

Round 2: k3, k2tog. Repeat around

Round 3: knit around

Round 4: k2, k2tog. Repeat around

Round 5: knit around Round 6: k1, k2tog.

Repeat around. Break yarn and use yarn needle to thread tail through the remaining six stitches.

THUMB, BOTH MITTENS

Transfer thumb gusset stitches from waste yarn to three size 8 needles as follows:

Needle 1: Pick up the stitch you previously cast on to bridge the gap over the thumb gusset, and two stitches from the stitches on waste yarn on either side of it.

Needle 2: 5 stitches

Needle 3: 4 stitches

Total Stitches: 14 Using white knit 7 rounds.

Decrease Round 1: (k2tog, k3) twice, k2tog, k2

Knit one round

Decrease Round 2: (k2tog, k2) twice, k2tog, k1 Knit one round

Decrease Round 3: (k2tog, k1) twice, k2tog

Break yarn and use yarn needle to threat tail through remaining three stitches. Turn mitten inside-out and weave in all tails.

The post How To Make Great Up North Cabin Mitten | Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Winter Haze Colour Block Scarf

ABBREVIATIONS

k – knit
WS – wrong side
RS – right side

WHAT YOU NEED TO START

YARN

840m of worsted weight yarn
Used here:
• 2 balls of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk in Light Grey Green (colour A)
• 2 balls of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk in Denim Blue (colour B)
• 2 balls of Drops Brushed Alpaca Silk in Violet (colour C)

NEEDLES
6.0 mm (US 10) needles

GAUGE
Doesn’t matter, but here I got 3 stitches and 4 rows per inch in the halfbrioche
stitch, after blocking.

FINISHED
MEASUREMENTS
82 inches (1.65 m) long and 10 inches wide, after blocking
with these instructions, but you can very easily adjust the
size.

INSTRUCTIONS

CO 30 stitches holding 2 strands of colour A together

Row 1 (WS): knit
Row 2 (RS): k1, k1 in row below
Row 3 (WS): knit
Row 4 (RS): k1 in row below, k1

Repeat rows 1-4 15 times, or until piece measures 13″ from
cast on edge, unblocked (or until desired length for the first
block is reached).

Cut one strand of colour A and pick up one strand of colour
B. Holding one strand of colour A and one strand of colour B
together, repeat rows 1-4 for 13″ (or desired length).

Cut colour A and pick up a second strand of colour B.
Holding two strands of colour B together, repeat rows 1-4
for 13″ (or desired length).

Cut one strand of colour B and pick up one strand of colour
C. Holding one strand of colour B and one strand of colour C
together, repeat rows 1-4 for 13″ inches (or desired length).

Cut colour B and pick up a second strand of colour C.
Holding two strands of colour C together, repeat rows 1-4
for 13″ (or desired length).

FINISHING

Bind off all stitches and weave in all loose ends. Block and
shape to desired length/width.

The post The Best And Easy Winter Haze Colour Block Scarf Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Handicrafter Cotton Zen Pillows

ABBREVIATIONS

Inc1P = Increase 1 stitch in next st by purling into back and
front of stitch.

MEASUREMENT
Approx 16 ins [40.5 cm] diameter.

MATERIALS

Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (Solids 400 g/14 oz;
650 m/710 yds)
2 COLOR VERSION
MC: 27215 (Robin’s Egg) 210 m /230 yds
A: 27018 (Bronze) 60 m /66 yds

Bernat® Handicrafter Cotton (Ombre 340 g/12 oz;
556 m/608 yds)
SINGLE COLOR VERSION
33021 (Lotus Blossom) 295 m /323 yds
Set of four size 4.5 mm (U.S. 7) double-pointed needles. Size
4.5 mm (U.S. 7) circular knitting needle 24 ins [60 cm] long or
size needed to obtain gauge. 16 ins [40.5 cm] round pillow
form.

GAUGE

20 sts and 26 rows = 4 ins [10 cm] in stocking st.

INSTRUCTIONS

2 COLOR VERSION
Front and Back (make 2 pieces alike).
With MC and set of 4 needles, cast on 4 sts.

1st rnd: Inc 1 st in each st. 8 sts. Divide sts onto 3 needles:
(2, 3, 3). Join in rnd, placing a marker on first st.
2nd rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. Rep from * around. 16 sts.
3rd rnd: *Inc1P. P1. Rep from * around. 24 sts.
4th rnd: Purl.
5th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K2. Rep from * around. 32 sts.
6th rnd: Knit.
7th rnd: *Inc1P. P3. Rep from * around. 40 sts.
8th rnd: Purl.
9th rnd: *Inc 1 st in next st. K4. Rep from * around. 48 sts.
10th rnd: With A, (K6. Place marker) 8 times.
11th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times. 56 sts.

**12th rnd: With MC, purl.
13th rnd: (Knit to 1 st before marker. Inc 1 st in next st. Slip
marker) 8 times. 64 sts.
14th rnd: Knit.
15th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times. 72 sts.
16th rnd: Purl.
17th rnd: (Knit to 1 st before marker. Inc 1 st in next st. Slip
marker) 8 times. 80 sts.
18th rnd: With A, knit.
19th rnd: (Purl to 1 st before marker. Inc1P. Slip marker)
8 times.
88 sts.**

Rep from ** to ** for pat, inc 8 sts every alt rnd and changing
to circular needle to accommodate added sts when necessary
until work from center measures approx 8 ins [20.5 cm] for a
diameter of 16 ins [40.5 cm], ending on a 16th rnd of pat.
With MC, cast off loosely knitwise.

SINGLE COLOR VERSION

Work as for 2 Color Version omitting all references to color
changes.

FINISHING

Sew Front and Back tog, leaving 10 ins [25.5 cm] opening.
Insert pillow form. Sew opening closed.

The post The Easiest Pattern For Handicrafter Cotton Zen Pillows appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Yikes Sprites Cardigan Free Pattern

SIZE

9 mos, 12 mos, 24 months (2 yrs)
Finished Chest 19½ (22, 24) in. (49.5 (56, 61) cm)
Finished Length 9½ (10½, 11½) in. (24 (26.5, 29.5) cm)
Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

MATERIALS

• 860-123 Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice: Beige
1 (1,2) Ball (A)
• 860-108 Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice: Dusty
1 (1,2) Ball (B)
• 860-110 Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice: Navy
1 (1,2) Ball (C)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 9 [5.5 mm]
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles – Size 10 [6 mm]
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Lion Brand Stitch Holders
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)
• Additional Materials
4 buttons, 1 in. (25 mm) diameter

GAUGE

15 sts + 32 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION

PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib (uneven # of sts)
Row 1 (WS): P1, *k1, p1; rep from *.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for k1, p1 Rib.

COLOR SEQUENCE
2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C, *4 rows A, 4 rows B, 4 rows C; rep from * for color sequence.

BACK

With smaller needles and A, cast on 37 (41, 45) sts.
Work 1 row in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to B and work 2 rows in k1, p1 Rib.
Free Knitting Pattern: Vanna’s Choice Yikes Stripes Cardigan Page 2 of 5
Change to C and work 2 rows in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to larger needles and A, work 4 rows in Garter st.
Change to B and work 4 rows in Garter st.
Change to C and work 4 rows in Garter st.
Continue working Color Sequence until Back measures 9½
(10½, 11½) in. (24 (26.5, 29) cm) from beg. Bind off.

Pocket Lining (make 2)

With larger needles and C, cast on 11 sts. Work in Garter
st for 2 in. (5 cm). Transfer sts to a holder.

LEFT FRONT

With smaller needles and A, cast on 23 (25, 27) sts.
Work in k1, p1 Rib and Color Sequence as for Back.
Change to larger needles and work in Garter st and Color
Sequence as for Back until Left Front measures 3 in. (7.5
cm) from beg, end with a WS row.

Pocket Welt
Continue in Color Sequence as for Back.
Next Row (RS): K6 (7, 8) sts, p1, (k1, p1) 5 times, k6 (7,
8).
Next Row: K6 (7, 8) sts, k1, (p1, k1) 5 times, k6 (7, 8).
Rep last 2 rows once more.
Next Row: K6 (7, 8) sts, bind off 11 sts, k to end.
Next Row: K6 (7, 8) sts, knit 11 sts of one Pocket Lining,
k to end of row.
Work even until Left Front measures 7½ (8½, 9½) in. (19
(21.5, 24) cm), end with a RS row.

Neck Shaping
Next Row (WS): Bind off 5 (6, 7) sts, k to end of row –
18 (19, 20) sts.
Decrease 1 st at neck edge every row 6 times – 12 (13,
14) sts. Work even until Left Front measures 9½ (10½,
11½) in. (24.5 (26.5, 29) cm) from beg. Bind off. Mark
placement for 4 buttons: with first button just above
ribbing, top button½ in. (1.5 cm) below neck shaping, and
2 evenly spaced between.

RIGHT FRONT

Work as for Left Front, reversing all shaping, AT THE SAME
TIME, work buttonholes opposite markers on RS rows as
follows:
Buttonhole Row (RS): K2, k 2 sts together, yarn over, k
to end of row.

SLEEVE (make 2)

With smaller needles and A, cast on 23 (25, 27) sts.
Work in k1, p1 Rib and Color Sequence as for Back.
Change to larger needles and work in Garter st and Color
Sequence as for Back, increasing 1 st each end of every
8th row 6 times – 35 (37, 39) sts. Work even until Sleeve
measures 8 (8½, 9) in. (20.5 (21.5, 23) cm) from beg.
Bind off.

FINISHING

Sew shoulder seams.

Neckband
From RS with smaller needles and C, pick up and k 19 (20, 21) sts along Right Front neck edge, 15 (17, 17)
sts across Back neck, and 19 (20, 21) along Left Front neck edge – 53 (57, 59) sts.
Work 1 row in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to B and work 2 rows in k1, p1 Rib.
Change to C and work 1 row in k1, p1 Rib. With C, bind off.

Left Front Edging
From RS with smaller needles and A, pick up and k 4 sts along side of neckband, pick up and k 1 st in each
ridge of Garter st, and 4 sts along bottom ribbing. Bind off.

Right Front Edging
From RS with smaller needles and A, pick up and k 4 sts along bottom ribbing, pick up and k 1 st in each
ridge of Garter st, and 4 sts along side of neckband. Bind off.
Sew Pocket Linings to WS of Fronts. Sew Sleeves to body. Sew side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends. Sew
buttons opposite buttonholes.

The post Here Is Free Pattern of Yikes Sprites Cardigan appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Zig Zag Scarf Autumn Season Knitting

ABBREVIATIONS

inc = increas(e)(s)(ing)

k = knit
k2tog = knit 2 together

p = purl
rep = repeat(s)(ing)

sl = slip
st(s) = stitch(es)

SIZE

One Size
5 1/2 x 60 in. (14 x 152.5 cm)

MATERIALS
• 620-174 Wool-Ease Yarn: Avocado
2 Balls
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm]
• Lion Brand Stitch Markers
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE
16 sts = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (k every row). BE SURE TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size specified in the
pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it takes you less
stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller size hook or
needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION:
NOTES:
1) Modular Knitting is way of giving a ‘patchwork’ effect to your knitting without
picking up stitches or seaming. In the Modular Scarf pattern, you will work a series of
triangles that are built atop one another.
2) Sl all sts as if to knit.
Inc 1 st (kfb): knit the next stitch without removing it from the needle, then k through back
of same st to inc 1 stitch.

SCARF
Cast on 18 sts.
Right Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k1, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Note: Move yarn behind the work before you sl 1, k to end. This will ensure a neat edge.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k3, turn.
Row 4: Place marker, sl 1, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k1, turn.
Row 6: Place marker, sl 1, k to end.
Rep Rows 5 and 6 until all cast-on sts have been worked – 34 sts.
Last Row: K1, inc 1, k to end – 35 sts.
The first Equilateral Triangle will begin at lower point of the Right Triangle.

Equilateral Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until you have worked all but last 2 sts.
Next Row: Sl 1, k to end.
Last Row: K1, inc 1, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1.
The next Equilateral Triangle will begin at the point of the previous Equilateral Triangle.
Rep Equilateral Triangle until 9 Equilateral Triangles have been worked.

End Triangle
Row 1: K1, inc 1, k2tog, turn.
Row 2: Sl 1, k to end.
Row 3: K1, inc 1, k1, k2tog, turn.
Row 4: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Row 5: K1, inc 1, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep Rows 4 and 5 until you have worked all but 17 sts of previous triangle.
Next Row: Sl 1, place marker, k to end.
Next Row: K2tog, k to marker, remove marker, k2tog, turn.
Rep last 2 rows until 3 sts remain. Bind off.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.

The post The Best To Make Zig Zag Scarf Autumn Season appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Knitted Autumn Acorns and Leaves.

Yarn

‣ Hayfield Bonus DK (double knitting/light
worsted weight), 100% Acrylic
‣ One 100g/280m skein in each shade
Leaves: (from left to right in photo above)
“Pumpkin”, “Fox” and “Grass”
Acorn cups: “Chocolate”
Acorn nuts: (from left to right in photo above)
“Moss Green” and “Oatmeal”
‣ You will only need a few grammes of each
colour to make the acorn and leaves, so this is an
ideal project to use up ends of yarn balls
‣ Tension 26 sts x 32 rows per 10 cm square

Needles & Notions

‣ A pair of 3.5 mm (US 4) single pointed needles,
minimum length 20 cm
‣ A darning or tapestry needle
‣ A small handful of toy filling or cotton wool balls
to stuff the acorns

Size

‣ Each leaf is approximately 6.5 cm tall and the
acorn 3 cm tall

Abbreviations

k Knit
k2tog Knit two stitches together (decrease)
kfb Knit into the front and back of the next
stitch (increase)
m1L Make 1 (left leaning increase). Bring the tip
of the left-hand needle under the strand
between stitches, from front to back. Knit
through the back of this loop.
m1R Make 1 (right leaning increase). Bring the
tip of the left-hand needle under the strand
between stitches, from back to front. Knit
this loop.

p Purl
p2tog Purl two stitches together (decrease)
RS Right side
st(s) Stitch(es)
WS Wrong side

Knitting Pattern

ACORN

(Make 1 per acorn)
Start at the
bottom of the
acorn cup. Cast
on 8 sts in the
acorn cup yarn on
single pointed 3.5 mm needles using
the cable cast on.

Row 1 (WS): Knit.
Row 2 (RS): K1, (kfb) 6 times, k1. [14 sts]
Row 3: Knit.
Row 4: K1, (kfb, k1) 6 times, k1. [20 sts]
Row 5: Knit.
Break the working yarn and join the acorn nut yarn.
Row 6: Knit.
Row 7: Purl.
Row 8: K1, [k2tog, k4] 3 times, k1. [17 sts]
Row 9: Purl.
Row 10: K1, [k2tog, k3] 3 times, k1. [14 sts]
Row 11: Purl.
Row 12: (K2tog) 7 times. [7 sts]
Break the yarn leaving a 30 cm tail, thread the tail
onto a tapestry needle and thread through the
7 sts on the knitting needle, pulling them off the
needle and onto the yarn, and pull tight to gather
together.

OAK LEAVES

(Make 1 per leaf)
Start at the bottom edge.
Cast on 3 sts in the leaf
yarn on single pointed
3.5 mm needles using the
cable cast on.

Row 1 (RS): Knit.
Row 2 (WS): Purl.
Row 3: K1, m1R, k1, m1L, k1. [5 sts]
Row 4: Purl.
Row 5: K2, m1R, k1, m1L, k2. [7 sts]
Row 6: Purl.
Row 7: K3, m1R, k1, m1L, k3. [9 sts]
Row 8: Purl.
Row 9: K4, m1R, k1, m1L, k4. [11 sts]
Row 10: Purl.
Row 11: K5, m1R, k1, m1L, k5. [13 sts]
Row 12: P2tog, (p1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, purl to end. [10 sts]
Row 13: K2tog, (k1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, k2, m1R, k1, m1L, k3. [9 sts]
Row 14: Purl.
Row 15: K4, m1R, k1, m1L, k4. [11 sts]
Row 16: P2tog, (p1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, purl to end. [8 sts]

Row 17: K2tog, (k1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, k1, m1R, k1, m1L, k2. [7 sts]
Row 18: Purl.
Row 19: K3, m1R, k1, m1L, k3. [9 sts]
Row 20: P2tog, (p1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, purl to end. [6 sts]
Row 21: K2tog, (k1, lift the 2nd stitch on the righthand
needle over the 1st stitch on the right-hand
needle) 2 times, knit to end. [3 sts]
Row 22: P2tog, p1. [2 sts]
Row 23: K2tog. [1 stitch]
Bind off.

MAKING UP

‣ For the leaves, block and weave in yarn tails on
the WS.
‣ For each acorn, use the cast off tail to sew the
side edges together stuffing as you sew, and
gather the cast on sts together at the base.
Leave the cast on tail dangling on the outside for
the acorn stalk, and trim to a few cm long.

The post Knitted Autumn Acorns and Leaves Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “The Canyon Cowl Crochet -100% Merinos-”

ABBREVIATIONS

ch(s) – chain(s), dc – double crochet, st(s) – stitch(es), sl st – slip stitch

YARN

Red Heart Stellar, #6 super bulky weight yarn: 240 yards of #9307 Meteorite

MATERIALS

US Size P/15 (10mm) crochet hook or size needed to obtain gauge, yarn needle, scissors

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Length: 22”, Circumference: 34”

GAUGE

2 V sts and 3 rows = 3.5”

SPECIAL STITCHES

V Stitch (V st) – [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in same ch or ch space.

NOTES

1. Pattern is worked in joined rounds.
2. Ch 4 + 1 dc at beginning of each round counts as 1 V st.
3. Use a multi-colored yarn and it will reveal a subtle zig zag pattern in some places, or use two different colors and change colors each round to create a more obvious zig zag pattern.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Ch 63, sl st to 1st ch to join.

Round 1: Ch 4, 1 dc in same ch, *skip 2 chs, 1 V st in next ch; repeat from * around, skip 2 chs, sl st to 3rd ch to join – 21 V sts.

Rounds 2-17: Sl st into ch 1 space in center of 1st V st, ch 4, 1 dc in same ch space, *1 V st in ch 1 space in center of next V st; repeat from * around, sl st to 3rd ch to join – 21 V sts.

Round 18: Sl st into ch 1 space in center of 1st V st, ch 4, 1 dc in same ch space, *1 V st in ch 1 space in center of next V st; repeat from * around, invisible join to 3rd ch & fasten off – 21 V sts.

The post How To Make Canyon Cowl Crochet appeared first on Cocador.

Today we are going to get ready ourselves for cold but cosy nights with the best knitting website Cocador.

Here Is Sweet Cosy Slipper Socks Free Pattern

BEFORE STARTING

cm centimetres

dec decrease

in inches

k knit

mm millimetres

oz ounces

p purl

rem remaining

rep repeat

skpo sl 1, k1, pass slipped st over

sl slip

st/s stitch/es

tog together

SIZE

To fit shoe size 4-5 (6-7).

MATERIALS

• 50g/1¾oz balls of Debbie Bliss Cashmerino Chunky:
  • 2(3) balls in Pearl 23 (A)
  • 1(2) balls in Rose 22 (B)
• Pair of 5.5mm (US 9) needles
• Pair of 6mm (US 10) needles

TENSION

15 sts and 30 rows to 10cm/4in garter st using 5.5mm (US 9) needles.

RIGHT SLIPPER

Using 6mm (US 10) needles and B cast on 40(44) sts.

Rib row [K1, p1] to end. This row forms the rib. Work a further 13 rows.

Change to 5.5mm (US 9) needles. Work a further 12 rows.

Dec row Rib 7(8), [rib2tog, rib 6(7)] 3 times, rib2tog, rib 7.

36(40) sts. Cut off B. Join in A.

K 8 rows. **

Shape instep

Next row (right side) K24(26), turn.

Next row K12, turn.

Work a further 37(43) rows in garter st on these 12 sts, ending with a right side row.

Shape toe

1st row K3, turn. 2nd row K to end. 3rd row K6, turn. 4th row K to end. 5th row K9, turn. 6th row K to end.

7th row K across all 12 sts. Break off yarn.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn at base of instep, pick up and k20(23) sts along side of instep, k2tog, k8, skpo, across centre 12 sts then pick up and

k23(26) sts along other side of instep, k rem 12(14) sts.

77(87) sts.

K 9 rows. Break off yarn.

Shape sole

Next row With right side facing, place first 31(36) sts onto right-hand needle, rejoin yarn and k12, turn.

1st row K9, turn.

2nd row K8, k2tog, turn.

3rd row K6, turn.

4th row K5, k2tog, turn.

5th row K3, turn.

6th row K2, k2tog, turn.

Next row K11, k2tog, turn.

Rep last row until 24 sts rem, k to end. Cast off.

Join back seam. With seam to centre of cast off sts, join heel seam.

LEFT SLIPPER

Work as given for right slipper to **.

Shape instep

Next row K24(26), turn.

Next row K12, turn **.

Work a further 36(42) rows in garter st on these 12 sts, ending with a wrong side row.

Shape toe

1st row K3, turn.

2nd row K to end.

3rd row K6, turn. 4th row K to end. 5th row K9, turn. 6th row K to end.

7th row K across all 12 sts.

8th row K to end. Break off yarn.

With right side facing, rejoin yarn at base of instep, pick up and k23(26) sts along side of instep, k2tog, k8, skpo across centre 12 sts then pick up and k20(23) sts along other side of instep, k rem 12(14) sts.

77(87) sts.

K 9 rows. Break off yarn.

Shape sole

Next row With right side facing, place first 34(39) sts onto right-hand needle, rejoin yarn and k12, turn.

1st row K11, k2tog, turn.

2nd row K9, turn.

3rd row K8, k2tog, turn.

4th row K6, turn.

5th row K5, k2tog, turn.

6th row K3, turn.

7th row K2, k2tog, turn.

Next row K11, k2tog, turn.

Rep last row until 24 sts rem, k to end. Cast off.

Join back seam. With seam to centre of cast off sts, join heel seam.

The post Sweet Cosy Slipper Socks Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

Welcome to best knitting website Cocador

Today we are going to examine closely “The Sleeve Classic Pullover -100% Wool-”

SIZE

Small, Medium, Large, 1X, 2X

Finished Bust 37 (40, 43, 47, 51) in. (94 (101.5, 109, 119.5, 129.5) cm)
Finished Length 23 1/2 (24, 24, 24 1/2, 25) in. (59.5 (61, 61, 62, 63.5) cm)

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

MATERIALS
• 620-098 Quality Brand Wool-Ease – Yarn: Natural Heather
5 (6, 6, 7, 8) Balls
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 8 [5 mm]
• Large-Eye Blunt Needles (Set of 6)

GAUGE

19 sts + 27 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in St st (k on RS, p on WS). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

STITCH EXPLANATION

PATTERN STITCH
K1, p1 Rib
Row 1: *K1, p1; rep from * to end of row.
Row 2: K the knit sts and p the purl sts.
Rep Row 2 for K1, p1 Rib.

SWEATER

BACK
Cast on 80 (86, 92, 102, 108) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib
until piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) from beg,
increase 8 (10, 10, 10, 12) sts evenly spaced across last
row – 88 (96, 102, 112, 120) sts.
Change to St st (k on RS, p on WS) and work until piece
measures 14 (14, 14, 14, 14 1/2) in. (35.5 (35.5, 35.5,
35.5, 36.5) cm) from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Armholes
Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of next 2 rows – 78 (86,
88, 96, 104) sts. Dec 1 st each side every other row 4
(6, 6, 8, 9) times – 70 (74, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Work until armhole measures 8 1/2 (9, 9, 9 1/2, 9 1/2)
in. (21.5 (23, 23, 24, 24) cm), end with a WS row.

Shape Neck
K24 (25, 25, 26, 29), bind off center 22 (24, 26, 28, 28)
sts, k to end of row.

Left Shoulder
Working on left shoulder sts only, continue as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to end of
row.
Row 2: Bind off 3 sts, k to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 3 sts, k to end of row.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.
Right Shoulder
Rejoin yarn to work right shoulder.
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 3 sts, p to end of row.
Row 2: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to end of row.
Row 3: Bind off 3 sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, k to end of row.
Purl 1 row. Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

FRONT

Work same as Back until armhole measures 6 1/4 (6
3/4, 6, 6 1/2, 6 1/2) in. (16 (17, 15, 16, 16) cm), end
with a WS row – 70 (74, 76, 80, 86) sts.
Shape Neck
K28 (29, 29, 30, 33), bind off next 14 (16, 18, 20, 20)
sts, k to end of row.

Right Shoulder

Working on right shoulder sts only, purl 1 row.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next RS row 3 (3, 2, 2, 2) times.
At same edge, dec 1 st every other row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6)
times – 18 (19, 19, 20, 23) sts. P 1 row. K 1 row.
Row 1 (WS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, p to end of
row.
Row 2: Knit.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, p to end of row.
Row 4: Knit.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

Left Shoulder
Rejoin yarn to work Left Shoulder.
Bind off 2 sts at the beg of every WS row 3 (3, 2, 2, 2)
times. Dec 1 st at beg of every WS row 4 (4, 6, 6, 6)
times – 18 (19, 19, 20, 23) sts. Knit 1 row. Purl 1 row.
Row 1 (RS): Bind off 6 (6, 6, 6, 7) sts, k to end of row.
Row 2: Purl.
Row 3: Bind off 6 (6, 6, 7, 8) sts, k to end of row.
Row 4: Purl.
Bind off remaining 6 (7, 7, 7, 8) sts.

SLEEVES (make 2)
Cast on 40 (42, 44, 48, 50) sts. Work in K1, p1 Rib until
piece measures 2 1/2 in. (6.5 cm) from beg, inc 6 sts
evenly spaced across last row – 46 (48, 50, 54, 56) sts.
Knit 1 row, purl 1 row.
Next Row: Knit, inc 1 st each side—48 (50, 52, 56, 58).
Continue to work in St st, AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st
each side every 6 rows 9 (9, 10, 10, 10) times – 66 (68,
72, 76, 78) sts. Work even until piece measures 11 (11,
11 1/2, 11 1/2, 11 1/2) in. (28 (28, 29, 29, 29) cm)
from beg, end with a WS row.

Shape Sleeve Cap
Bind off 5 (5, 7, 8, 8) sts at beg of the next 2 rows – 56
(58, 58, 60, 62) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every other row 4 (5, 5, 4, 5) times –
48 (48, 48, 52, 52) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every 4th row 5 (5, 5, 6, 6) times –
38 (38, 38, 40, 40) sts.
Dec 1 st each side every other row 3 times – 32 (32, 32,
34, 34) sts.
Bind off 2 sts at beg of next 2 rows; 3 sts at beg of next
2 rows; 7 sts at beg of next 2 rows. Bind off remaining 8
(8, 8, 10, 10) sts.

FINISHING
Sew left shoulder seam.
Neckband: From RS, join yarn at right shoulder and
pick up and k34 (36, 38, 40, 40) sts along Back neck, 44
(46, 50, 54, 54) sts along Front neck – 78 (82, 88, 94,
94) sts.
Work 5 rows in K1, p1 Rib. Bind off.
Sew right shoulder and neckband seam. Sew in Sleeves.
Sew side and Sleeve seams. Weave in ends.

The post The Greatest Way To Knit Sleeve Classic Pullover appeared first on Cocador.

Great chance  to prepare your baby for winter with Cocador’s Free Knitting Patterns.

Cardigan & Hat Merinos Free Pattern by Cocador

COMPOSITION

100 % Merinos Wool

TO FIT

a) newborn – b) 3 – c) 6 mths HEIGHT a) 52 – b) 60 – c) 67 cm

MATERIALS

P. MÉRINOS 3.5: a) 3 – b) 3 – c) 4 balls of FLANELLE or ÉCRU or POUDRE or ABSINTHE or MARINE

1 pair of 3.5 mm (UK – – US 4) knitting needles 2 x 14 mm buttons

STITCH

Garter st

TENSION

Be sure to check your tension before starting to knit. If tension is too tight, change to larger needles; if it is too loose, change to smaller needles.

23 sts and 46 rows to 10 cm measured over garter st using 3.5 mm needles

BACK

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 55 – b) 58 – c) 62 sts and work in garter st. When work meas a) 13 – b) 15 – c) 17 cm from beg, shape armholes. On each edge, cast off 5 sts once [a) 45 – b) 48 – c) 52 sts], then work straight.

When work meas a) 21 – b) 24 – c) 27 cm from beg, shape neck. Cast off a) 17

– b) 20 – c) 22 center sts, then finish 1 side at a time.

When work meas a) 22 – b) 25 – c) 28 cm from beg, cast off rem a) b) 14 – c) 15 sts (for shoulders).

RIGHT RONT

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 39 – b) 41 – c) 44 sts and work in garter st. When work meas a) 13 – b) 15 – c) 17 cm from beg, shape armhole. On left edge, cast off 5 sts once [a) 34 – b) 36 – c) 39 sts], then work straight.

When work meas a) 19 – b) 22 – c) 25 cm from beg, shape neck. On right edge, cast off a) 20 – b) 22 – c) 24 sts once, then work straight.

When work meas a) 22 – b) 25 – c) 28 cm from beg, cast off rem a) b) 14 – c) 15 sts (for shoulder).

Work Left Front, reverse shaping.

SLEEVES

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 37 – b) 39 – c) 41 sts and work in garter st. Inc on each edge: a) on foll 18th rows, inc 1 st twice – b) on foll 18th rows, inc 1 st 3 times – c) on foll 16th rows, inc 1 st 4 times

[a) 41 – b) 45 – c) 49 sts]

When work meas a) 11.5 – b) 16 – c) 18 cm from beg, mark selv sts, then work straight.

When work meas a) 13.5 – b) 18 – c) 20 cm from beg, cast off all sts. Work other sleeve in same way.

MAKE UP

Sew shoulder seams. Join sleeves to body between marked sts.

Sew seams for sides and sleeves. Make 2 buttonholes by widening sts; make 1st buttonhole below neck and foll buttonhole 5 cm further down. Sew buttons.

HAT

No. 147 – T17 – 439

A and B

TO FIT

a) newborn – b) 3 – c) 6 mths

HAT SIZE: a) circum. 32 x ht 13.5 cm – b) circum. 34 x ht 15 cm – c) circum. 38 x ht 16 cm

MATERIALS

P. MÉRINOS 3.5: a) 1 – b) 1 – c) 1 ball of FLANELLE or ÉCRU 1 pair of 3.5 mm (UK – – US 4) knitting needles

Garter st

TENSION

Be sure to check your tension before starting to knit. If tension is too tight, change to larger needles; if it is too loose, change to smaller needles.

23 sts and 46 rows to 10 cm measured over garter st using 3.5 mm needles

Using 3.5 mm needles, cast on a) 39 – b) 41 – c) 45 sts and work in garter st for

a) 13.5 – b) 15 – c) 16 cm, then cast off. Work another section in same way.

Join sections and sew top of hat.

The post How To Make Cardigan & Hat Merinos As Baby Outfit appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Knitted City Stripes Dog Sweater.

This cute dog sweater will keep your puppy pretty and warm!

It’s so easy level.

SIZE: Small, Medium, Large, 1X
Finished Chest 18 (22, 26, 30) in. [45.5 (56, 66, 76) cm] around widest point
Finished Length 12 (17, 20, 24) in. [30.5 (43, 51, 61) cm]

Note: Pattern is written for smallest size with changes for larger sizes in parentheses. When only one number
is given, it applies to all sizes. To follow pattern more easily, circle all numbers pertaining to your size before
beginning.

CORRECTIONS: None

MATERIALS
• 640-132 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Lemongrass
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (A)
• 640-131 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Grass
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (B)
• 640-146 Lion Brand Wool-Ease® Thick & Quick Yarn: Fig
1 (1, 1, 2) Ball (C)
• Lion Brand Knitting Needles- Size 13 [9 mm]
• Large-Eyed Blunt Needles

GAUGE:
8 sts + 16 rows = 4 in. (10 cm) in Garter st (knit every row). BE SURE TO CHECK
YOUR GAUGE. When you match the gauge in a pattern, your project will be the size
specified in the pattern and the materials specified in the pattern will be sufficient. If it
takes you less stitches and rows to make a 4 in. [10 cm] square, try using a smaller
size hook or needles; if more stitches and rows, try a larger size hook or needles.

NOTES:

STRIPE PATTERN
2 rows A, 2 rows B, 2 rows C in Garter st throughout

DOG SWEATER

BACK
With A, cast on 25 (31, 37, 43) sts.
Work in Garter st in Stripe Pattern until piece measures 7
(12, 14, 16) in. [18 (30.5, 35.5, 40.5) cm] from beg.
Dec Row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1 – 23
(29, 35, 41) sts.
Continuing in Stripe Pattern, K 3 rows. Rep Dec Row every
4th row 4 (4, 5, 7) more times – 15 (21, 25, 27) sts.
Bind off.

UNDERPIECE

With A, cast on 11 (13, 15, 17) sts. Work in Garter st in
Stripe Pattern until piece measures 4 1/2 (7 1/4, 10 1/4,
10 3/4) in. [11.5 (18.5, 26, 27.5) cm] from beg.
Dec Row (RS): K 1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, k2tog, k 1 – 9
(11, 13, 15) sts.

Continuing in Stripe Pattern, K 4 rows. Rep Dec Row every
5th row 2 (3, 4, 5) more times – 5 sts.
Bind off.

FINISHING

Starting from bind off edge, sew sides of Underpiece to Back for 2 (2 1/2, 3, 3 1/2) in. [5 (6.5, 7.5, 9) cm]
in. Leave the next 3 (3 1/2, 4, 4 1/2) in. [7.5 (9, 10, 11.5) cm] open on each side for legs, then seam
remaining length of sides.

The post Knitted City Stripes Dog Sweater Free Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Let’s begin joyfull learning journey with Diamond Lattice Blanket

Here is “The Best Free Diamond Lattice Blanket Pattern”

MEASUREMENTS
Approximately 56″ [142 cm] wide
x 60″ [152.5 cm] long.

INSTRUCTIONS
Notes:
• Right side of project is facing
at all times.
• ‘Working yarn’ is held behind
stitches throughout work.
Count 68 loops for foundation
row.
1st row: Working from right
to left, pull the 69th loop (from
‘working yarn’) up through 68th
loop (last loop of foundation
row) from behind to create a knit
stitch.

Pull next loop from working yarn up through next loop of
foundation row. *Cross second loop of foundation row in front
of first loop of foundation row (to the right). Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind next loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind
next loop. Cross next loop of foundation row in front of 2nd
loop of foundation row (to the left). Pull next loop from working
yarn up from behind through next loop. Pull next loop from working
yarn up from behind through next loop. (Pull next loop from
working yarn up through next loop of foundation row) twice.
Repeat from * to end of row. Do not turn work. 68 stitches in row.
2nd row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on
previous row. *Cross 2nd stitch over next stitch (to the left). Pull
loop from working yarn up from behind through 2nd stitch. Pull
next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next
loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross
next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Pull next loop from
working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Rep from * to last stitch.
Pull loop from working yarn up from behind next loop. Do not turn.

3th row: Working from right to left, cross 2nd stitch of previous row over 1st stitch (to the right). Pull loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Rep from * to last 6 stitches. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Do not turn.

4th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on previous row. *Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop, Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next stitch. Do not turn.

5th row: Working from right to left, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) twice. *Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Rep from * to end of row. Do not turn.

6th row: Working from left to right, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) three times. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of 1st stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Rep from * to last 5 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of 1st stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) three times. Do not turn.

7th row: Working from right to left, (pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row) twice. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Rep from * to end of row. Do not turn.

8th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind through last stitch worked on previous row. *Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop. Do not turn.

9th row: Working from right to left, cross 1st stitch over 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. *Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Rep from * to last 6 stitches. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) over next 4 stitches. Cross 2nd stitch in front of next stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Do not turn.

10th row: Working from left to right, pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch worked on previous row. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. *(Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross 2nd stitch over next stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Cross next stitch over 2nd stitch (to the right). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd loop. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st loop. Rep from * to last 5 stitches. (Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind next loop) twice. Cross next stitch in front of 2nd stitch (to the left). Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 2nd stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind 1st stitch. Pull next loop from working yarn up from behind last stitch. Do not turn. Repeat 5th to 10th rows for pattern. Work in pattern until Blanket measures approximately 60″ [152.5 cm], ending on a 5th row.

Bind off row: Working in same direction as last row, pull 2nd stitch through 1st stitch. Pull 3rd stitch through 2nd stitch. Pull 4th stitch through 3rd stitch. Continue in this manner to end of row. Cut thread at base of loop (thread used to create the loop) to create a yarn ‘tail’. Tie to secure and weave in end.

The post The Best Free Diamond Lattice Blanket Pattern appeared first on Cocador.

With Cocador you will enjoy to learn knitting patterns which is one more beautiful than the other.

Today we’ll look at closer to Simple Cable Scarf.

What You Need

• Yarn : 2 ball yarn in DK/light worsted
• Knitting Needle : 4mm (US 6) Single Pointed needles, cable needle
• Gauge : 10 cm : 20 sts in stockinette

Abbreviation

• cast on
• K : knit
• P : purl
• Sts : stitches
• Bind Off
• LC : Left cable
• 3/3LC : slip 3 sts into cable needle, put it in front of work, knit next 3 sts, then knit 3 sts from cable needle.

Suggestion : Better be blocked after finished.

Pattern

Cast On : 28 sts

Row 1, 3, 7, 9 : [K1, P1] 4x, K1, P2, K6, P2, [K1, P1] 4x, K1

Row 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 : K1, P8], K2, P6, K2, [P8, K1]

Row 5 (RS) : [K1, P1] 4x, K1, P2, 3/3LC, P2, [K1, P1] 4x, K1

Repeat 10 row above until you reach the length you want

Bind Off.

Don’t forget to block your scarf so the beauty of the stitches will be shown. If you using steam blocking with steam iron or damp towel/pillow case (like me), don’t forget to put the wrong side up and hide the right side when you pin it into mat.

Additional Note :

You can change LC with RC (right cable). Or maybe playing with simple intarsia for the cable part.

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