I set three new batches of wings on a rack set in a baking sheet and placed them, uncovered, in the refrigerator overnight. One was tossed with baking soda (a smaller amount than what had previously given me a bitter aftertaste), one was tossed with baking powder, and one was plain.
The next day, I removed the desiccated wings and baked them in a 425°F (218°C) oven, on the same rack that I’d dried them on. The results were even better than I’d expected:
Check out the hole structure on that, baby!
Although the baking soda–laden wings still had an off flavor, both the baking powder– and baking soda-treated wings showed markedly more bubbling and blistering than their untreated counterpart—just as much as a regular fried wing, in fact!
Could such a dramatic difference be attributed merely to improved browning because of the Maillard reaction? That’s part of the answer, but some research revealed that, most likely, it’s a combination of factors.