Gino’s doesn’t have the kind of old-school Italian-American atmosphere you see in films; it’s newer than that. Opened in 1964, it has a quirky mix of upscale decor (white tablecloths, marble counters) coexisting with a to-go pizza counter at the front, complete with pre-baked pies for by-the-slice orders. But that’s also why I like it: It’s not some set piece indifferently dishing up thoughtless grub just because it knows it looks cool. It’s a solid restaurant that real people go to for a good meal. That’s gotta be worth more.
Their penne with vodka was, and still is, pretty darned delicious, and I’ve found you can’t really go wrong with any of the other classics I’ve tried there, like tender and juicy chicken parm, and a heaping bowl of escarole sautéed in olive oil with plenty of garlic. I didn’t get a chance to eat a pizza on my most recent visit, but if they’re anything like they were years ago, you won’t be disappointed.
