Ataula is magical. Chef José Chesa is one of the most underrated chefs in Portland. Chesa’s approach to Spanish food falls along the lines of traditional-meets-modernist technique. And the vibe of the restaurant really reflects his personality. He’s a very outgoing, gregarious individual, but serious in the kitchen. The decor is super bright and lively—a perfect place for a date night.
People get confused because they think it’s a tapas bar, but it’s really not a tapas bar. He does have pintxos and tapas, a little bit of that stuff. But he showcases his technique and his talent with what he makes.
There’s a dish called the Xupa-Xup, which is basically two pieces of salami that are filled with goat cheese, on a lollipop stick. His patatas bravas is probably the signature dish that kind of best describes what he’s doing. It’s just a simple dish, but he elevates it to this next level. He slices a potato paper thin and puts it back together. I think he cooks it sous vide and then cuts it into these little bite-size pieces that he fries. It’s pretty amazing.
