Grape Syrup: Pekmez

If you’re like me, even all this raw fish will whet the appetite. Outside the market, on the northeast corner, is an outbuilding holding the most important part of an early morning fish market tour: breakfast. Grill & Shark Restaurant may or may not have a menu, and it may or may not grill food that may or may not include sharks. Our point-and-look hopeful methods yielded a “fish” (squid) curry and a “vegetable” (chickpea) curry, accompanied by rounds of light, flaky paratha.

In total, a visit to Dubai’s fish market will take you about an hour including breakfast. If you’re jet-lagged, you’ll probably be ready for a nap, and if you’re on a layover, this may help you sleep the rest of the way. And if you’re sticking around Dubai and have a kitchen, don’t forget to buy some of the bounty of sea creatures for a meal later—after 6:30 a.m. (once most of the wholesalers are long gone) the market is open for anyone to shop.