Why Preserved Lemons Belong on Your Shelf
Preserved lemons add a huge punch of citrus and umami flavor that ordinary lemons can’t match. Here’s how to start incorporating them into your cooking, or make your own preserved lemons at home.
A glass clamp jar with lemons and salt, the ingredients for making preserved lemons.
Fresh lemons are a workhorse in my kitchen, finding their way into everything from ice cream and tarts, to bitters and homemade cheese, to my go-to household cleaner. In fact, I thought I’d pretty much exhausted my uses for lemons—that is, until a fall afternoon in 2006, when I met a friend for lunch at the then-new-to-me Café Mogador in New York’s East Village. She knowingly ordered us matching chicken tagines without even glancing at the menu. The dish was unlike anything I had ever tasted: intensely lemony, with a depth I couldn’t place. It was so much more than the lemon chicken it appeared to be on the plate. I later learned that its unique flavor came from preserved lemons, which added an irresistible complexity to an otherwise straightforward chicken.
