For beginners, direct dyes are easier to comprehend because typically “what is in your bowl will look like what’s going to be in your hair, another advantage is that they often are formulated with conditioning and shine agents built in, as well as a base color that adds a “smokey or dusty element” to give it a more lived-in feel.
Generally speaking, there are two primary categories: Temporary hair color, which comes in many forms, from gels to conditioning masks, and semi-permanent hair dyes. Temporary colors are your quick wash-in, wash-out colors that fade after a couple of shampoos. Semi-permanent dyes are less high maintenance, lasting around 6-8 weeks depending on the vibrancy of the color you choose, how frequently you wash your hair, as well as the condition and porosity of your hair.
If you want to take a more low-risk approach, consider henna hair dyes or softer, pre-diluted tones and color kits. You can also spike your conditioner. Adding a drop of whatever direct dye you choose into a bowl of plain conditioner is a great way to put a toe in the water. It will dilute the intensity and will give a soft hint of the tone.
Choose a Flattering Shade
Think of your base color as the foundation of your final result. It’s like a fabulous canvas on which to enhance with whatever you please, akin to makeup over gorgeous skin. When selecting a color for a client, he considers what colors and tones will be most flattering to their skin and eye tones. A shade of pink with lavender will create an alluring draw for blue eyes, while a sunset pink adds a wash of warmth to skin like your own personal golden hour filter. For a more natural-looking effect, a go-to trick at the Bleach London salon is using a hint of golden color, like that from Bleach London’s Just Like Honey Super Cool Color with a dye to add a more diffused, filter-like effect. If you use it by itself, Just Like Honey creates a soft golden color on blondes, but you can try mixing 1 part Awkward Peach with 3 parts of it for a subtle peachy filter on blonde hair. Another thing to consider when choosing a shade is that warm colors (pink, red, orange, yellow) fade better and quicker, while cool colors (blue, green, violet) will stick around longer.
While it’s natural to feel apprehension, don’t be afraid. Remember—it’s not forever! Even with temporary hair color, people are afraid that it always comes out aggressively bright and punk, noting that a litany of brands have softened direct dye tones into sophisticated blends. You could see these tones worn in any setting, with any costume from jeans to gown. They almost mirror naturally occurring shades of gemstones.
Preserve and Boost Your Color
After using a semi-permanent dye, you’re going want to keep your color as bright and saturated as possible. The most effective way to do so is using color-safe hair products. As with all delicate hair colors, the detergents in your shampoo are the culprits for fading pigments. Another thing to keep in mind is that water can interfere with hair color, too, and reducing washes will help prolong color. You would be amazed at what a simple chlorine filter on your shower would do for your hair and skin, we recommend that especially for older buildings or anywhere with heavy minerals in the water. Another important step is toning your hair color to get rid of brassiness—especially for naturally blonde or bleached hair. Even if you’re already a light or bleached blonde, toning will remove brassy or yellow hues to create a clean blonde for your color. If there’s a lot of warmth in your blonde, the undertones will turn pinks to peach, or add a green hue to blues and purples.
If things don’t go perfectly, don’t be discouraged and keep at it. There’s this notion of rebellion linked to supernatural hair colors and a certain confidence comes with that spirit. We all love a rebel!
