The knish, when it’s done right, is just as delicious as the bagel. There’s a filling of onions cooked to golden caramel in chicken fat, then painted onto a belly-hugging potato canvas. That carby mass is then wrapped in thin, pliant dough and blistered in the oven. It’s great with deli mustard.
No, the knish is not sexy. It’s brownish and rotund and anything but elegantly shaped. But it is food that will make you feel good, fill you up on the cheap before a long day of work, or sop up the pain of loss or an unexpected breakup.
Some New Yorkers believe that it’s no longer easy—or possible—to get a good knish. Silver disagrees, and she makes a strong case with her “Where To Eat A Good Knish” map, which includes Judy’s Knishes, established in 2014, among her growing list of 16 approved sources in the five boroughs. So why isn’t the knish more popular?
