Raising the pH does indeed improve browning, and it also creates an environment that weakens the peptide bonds naturally present in proteins. In theory, this means the proteins can break down more easily into shorter pieces, creating a texture that is less leathery or papery and more crispy. Is it true in reality? Well, my teeth tell me “yes,” but my lack of an electron microscope tells me “maybe.”
One final advantage from the baking powder: During its overnight rest on the chicken, it soaks up some of the protein-laden chicken juices from within. As it heats, it forms carbon dioxide gas in the same way that it would in a cookie dough or cake batter, inflating these juices into bubbles, which are then naturally hardened by the heat of the oven. And, as we all know, extra bubbles mean extra surface area, which means extra crunch!
1 to 4 pounds (450g to 1.7kg) chicken wings, cut into drumettes and flats
1 teaspoon (5g) baking powder per pound of chicken wings
1 teaspoon (5g) kosher salt per pound of chicken wings
2 tablespoons (1 ounce; 25g) unsalted butter per pound of chicken wings
2 tablespoons (1 ounce; 30ml) Frank’s RedHot Sauce per pound of chicken wings
Blue cheese dressing, for serving
Celery sticks, for serving
