Spicy Sweet Muhammara

Where the neon lights dimmed on the Burgermeister on Church Street now shines Beit Rima. With his parents’ blessing, Chef Samir Mogannam reimagined this location of his family’s 20-year-old burger chain into a bustling spot—sweetly named after his mother, Rima—dishing up what he calls “Arab comfort food.” Eschewing the dilution inherent in the boundary-less umbrella term “Mediterranean,” Samir’s menu is a faithful homage to his Palestinian and Jordanian heritage.

My personal favorites include the meze sampler platter—the spicy-sweet muhammara, a red-pepper-and-walnut dip served with crunchy seasonal veggies and bright-pink pickles, is a standout—and the hummus ma’lehma (with spiced ground beef and pine nuts), which I usually pair with the creamy, tangy house-made labneh and a glass of minerally Palestinian white wine. Don’t miss the blistering-hot made-to-order pita with an ample dusting of za’atar, and hearty plates of perfectly charred yogurt-marinated chicken skewers atop Samir’s mother’s rice.