Shawarma’s the star here, but don’t overlook the steam table in open view; let your nose be your guide and ask for what’s fresh. On one visit that yielded some excellent Molokhia ($8.50), an enormous platter of stewed-but-not-mushy greens and chicken served over rice. If you win the staff’s trust they may offer to make you some raw kibbe, a specialty of hand-formed balls of raw meat mixed with bulgar—a rarity in New York’s Middle Eastern restaurants.
Counter seating is limited at Souk el Shater—just four stools—so consider taking your bounty to go and heading over to the Gaslight Pub a few doors down. The bar offers specials like three draft beers for $10, which are best enjoyed on their surprisingly nice patio in the back, and you’re welcome to bring in as much food as you’d like.
Ethan Frisch is the chef and co-mastermind behind Guerrilla Ice Cream. He’s traveled around the world (30 countries, 5 continents) and worked as a pastry chef and line cook in some of NYC’s great (and not so great) restaurants. He currently lives in London, where he really misses New York City tap water.
